TrickTT

Just reach under the back of the car and pull the heatshield away from the disk a bit, its only a thin piece of metal, and its easy to catch when changing a wheel and knock it into contact with the disc. If that doesn't cure it, you'll probably need to strip the caliper and clean/refurb it.

Yeah i said that as well the first time i opened the bonnet on a supe... cos I was expecting to find an A-series lump from a mini

My garage as well, no big rear spoiler though.

NOt much you can do about poor diffusion with individual LEDs, look for ones with a 50 degree spread rather than the more common 20 deg. When i did mine, i made a chain of about 20 LEDs and mounted them all the way round the back of the instrument cluster.

http://www.parkers.co.uk/play-your-cars-right/flash.html I got them all right

Your mates not one of the dodgy tuners mentioned elsewhere on the forum is he? Only front wheel drive cars have cv joints at the front. Its difficult to say without hearing it, any chance of recording it and posting the noise. Edit :just reread your post, could be roll bar/droplink bushes

Just had a look at the silverstone web site, a 2 1/2 hr course is £99 for individuals, i'll email them and see if they do special rates for group bookings and maybe set up an event for next year if there is enough interest.

Gamer, that was written in 1997, i dont think RLTC existed back then Skid pans are brilliant and not too expensive, google is your friend. There is at least one in the midlands. I would recommend one that has one of the cradle cars. They can program them to any type of skid you wish.

The one you are talking about is an air distribution flap.The flap that opens and closes to control heat is inside the heater box, right next to the matrix and it is a biiiiiig job to get at. The solenoid/motor that controls it also controls the water valve and is right at the top of the heater box, you might be able to see it if you take out the top glove box, but unless its a loose connection, the dash will have to come out.

I've got RLTC:p I would suggest that the idiot is the bloke who floors the throttle to overtake on a wet road without being aware that the centre of a road in general (not dried out by traffic) and the white line in particular, is very slippy.

I dont have a picture, but on a TT block it is below the exhaust manifold at the rear of the engine, between cylinder 5 and 6. Quite a large bolt (19mm?) If you reach up between the downpipe and block you should feel it. Not easy to get at and you will get wet when you undo it so be careful. You should be able to drain about 6 - 7 litres out in total as some coolant will always remain in the heater matrix.

To everyone who thinks RLTC is a cure-all, and drivers unused to rear wheel drive:- This is an exert from an article written by Jeremy Clarkson in 1997: Note the highlighted paragraph, as i suspect it causes more crashes than burying the throttle into the carpet in wet weather. Lifting off mid corner in a FWD car will help reduce understeer by bringing the back end round. The supe doesn't understeer so lifting off will kick the back out. If you do it, be prepared to get some opposite lock in quick to catch the impending spin. RLTC is a good system, i've got it on my supe, but it will not save you all the time. Be smooth with the controls, remember a 2 inch movement of your right foot is the difference between engine braking and 300+ bhp. If you are not used to RWD get a session booked in a skid car (or sainsburys car park in a 2.8 capri which is where I learned) Hope this helps someone

If you're talking about the overflow bottle, unbolt it and turn it upside down over a drain. Think its the same for the N/A - there is a block drain bolt toward the back of the engine on the exhaust side that will allow you to fully drain the block as well.

Have you got a link or phone number for booking the Ashford hotel for the Friday night?

1) Ian R (shogun or any where else) 2) konio-nt (I like japanese so Shogun - Don Salvo is shiat!) 3) Pete + Vicki (Designated Driver) 4) SteveR + Kate 5) TrickTT + Yvette (i eat anything)

Autos do not kick down because the car is doing "what it wants", they do it because the driver is being brutal with the throttle. In bad weather the key is being smooth with all the controls. That does not always mean driving slowly, just looking well ahead and anticipating the road. I'm sure "Class One" and any other advanced drivers know what I mean, if you do not i hope your insurance is good.

can t remenber offhand, but disconnect them and have someone crank the engine for a few seconds. not much oil will come out, just catch it in a bucket.

I've fitted mine at the side as well with a custom bracket, but i've got a spal fan between my a/c rad and greddy 2 row fmic with no clearance problem, so i'm sure a little tranny cooler rad will fit.

You've got 2 options, 1. Mark the position of the cams before you remove the old arms, fit the new ones in the same place and hope its close enough. 2. Mark the position of the cams before you remove the old arms, fit the new ones in the same place and take it for a suspension geometry check, whick should cost £60 - 80 for a 4 wheel check and adjust. Have a look at http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk to see if they recommend anyone near you.

have a look in my garage for pics. I think you're going to struggle for £1400 though. Good tyres (F1's or Toyos) will set you back around £550 for a full set.

These guys fitted the clifford in my supe, highly recommended and only 20 mins up the road from you, just off J2 of the M5: http://www.f1soundgallery.co.uk/cgi/homePage.cgi

Halfords sell them, just look for a post 2001 Audi fitment (try the A6 - should be about the right size)

I've got them as well. Just drill the (removable) black plastic rear covers that go behind the fog light bulb, feed the wires from the HID bulbs through, then seal the holes with silicon. This will stop the lights misting up.

I've got a front one sitting at home ready to go on mine. I paid about £70 for it, 2 day delivery from my local dealer. See this thread for contact details and latest discount. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=89843 Edit part nos added front one:63251-14050 rear:63252-14020

My local dealer does a good discount for members as well: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=59217