TrickTT

1) Jamiep RR & BBQ +1 2) Supradibbs BBQ No dyno car will still be running in 3) John R32 RR & BBQ +1 4) Muffleman RR & BBQ 5) Mr Lover RR & BBQ +1 6) Marco BBQ 7) Terribleturner + Sabrina 8) Jay_NW RR+ BBQ + 1 9) Ian R bbq (maybe rolling road if you can fit my car in) 10) Dan Turner 11) absxxxx RR 12) uzthedentist 13 Jonty RR & BBQ +1 14) Henk (Hen4732) RR & BBQ +1 15) Arsehole RR (subject to car being finished) & BBQ 16) Supra st myster RR (if i get my car fixed in time) and BBQ 17) Pig BBQ & RR 18) Homer RR & BBQ 19) supraloopy 20) AshBhp RR & BBQ 21) GazzGSi RR (If cars complete & BBQ +1 22) Supranick RR & BBQ 23) Johnd-mkiv (providing the car is still on the road) 24) MK47 - BBQ & *MAYBE* RR 25) Martin R and Callum R - BBQ 26) G-Nemie - BBQ 27) Tooquicktostop (plus one for BBQ) 28) Carbonangel - BBQ & RR 29) Sheefa BBQ & RR +1 30) EncoreWRC BBQ + 1 & RR 31) TheChin BBQ + 2 & RR 32) supra_surj BBQ + 1 33) spaxy. 34) CJ BBQ x 12 (I will probably be hungry) 35) R3DG3CKO - BBQ 36) Pistonbroke - BBQ + wife 37) Ryan.g - BBQ & RR 38) gaz6148 +1 39) suprakarl +1 40) Gamer BBQ & RR (wishful thinking) 41) Supragold - BBQ 42) Flip - BBQ + 1 43) Lui - BBQ + 1 44) Mrmward + Kate - BBQ + RR 45) Wkdtime + 1 -BBQ +RR (Depends if cars running ok) 46) Rob Wild + Dodgy - 2 x BBQ 47) Mas ............... will be up for a dyno too 48) Fishman + 1 - BBQ - ill just take photos 49) supraad - BBQ cant wait,keith and adam 50) mplavery BBQ poss RR + 1 51) gzaerojon RR & BBQ +1 52) Stonkin BBQ poss RR 53) Biggsy BBQ poss RR + wife 54) jaymdee - BBQ & RR 55) markiemark-BBQ + 1 56) Aaron-swr-BBQ 57) Grahamc RR + BBQ 58) robert BBQ + the other half 59) Fat Geneb + BBQ 60) r1george RR + BBQ 61) r1george Brother RR + BBQ 62) tucky40 RR + BBQ 63) private pile RR + BBQ 64) Gav BBQ 65) 2JG BBQ 66) MarksSupra BBQ + wife 67) Phil BBQ + RR 68) Bob BBQ 69) Tom BBQ (Pics & Video guy) 70) Ben-san® BBQ 80) Razza BBQ poss RR 81) Chris RR+BBQ (Bringing the Jus d' orange) Shaken not squashed 82) Jurgen BBQ + Missus or Mate they want BBQ too 83) Burna BBQ (I'm wasting away) 84) Guigsy BBQ 85) TrickTT BBQ

The lights are supposed to turn off when the ignition is switched off and the (drivers) door is opened. Does your courtesy light work properly? If not it may be a faulty door switch.

That trim clip thing that you highlighted fits into the stock speaker box. I just cut the back off and glued it to the door with superglue to fill the hole as it does not do anything with the stock speaker mount removed and it will fall out if not secured to somthing. Also see this post: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=1364596&postcount=217

I have one too, Envy sell them for £65.00

Stock is 82 deg, TRD one is 72 deg

I'll be in France May 13th on the Dragonball, see you at the next one.

Burna is currently selling a full set.

Undo the bolts that hold the back of the wheelarch liner on and push the coathanger wire through from the outside. Much easier.

I got some of this at Halfords today, just 1 left at the back of the shelf and they were almost stripped out of autoglym stuff.

I'll have the catch can off you Greg.

It wasn't on the basic .dat file Pete. From the datalog trace i would say the fronts were set 5% out on the profile as the rltc picked up the two front wheels as turning faster than the rears. I set the smoothing to 1 because I had some issues with mine cutting in strange places (not as bad as Gregs though) and this seemed to cure it for me. I also got rid of the inline fuse and replaced it with a proper blade fuse and holder. I have to say, although I understand CW's reasons for hardwiring the rltc into the ecu, for diagnostic reasons, I would have fitted it using the multiplugs and crimped and soldered the wires to the terminals. Some of the existing wiring to the ecu (definately not done by Chris) for the boost cut and speedo converter is a bit of a mess (scotchlock anyone?) and although I havn't changed it yet, I would recommend that they are redone if Greg still has problems.

Thanks Greg. Just finishing off a few jobs on it really. I didn't recommend the 0w-40 oil, it was some that Greg had with him and we just put a bit in to get the oil level spot on after draining off where it had been overfilled. I use and recommend Silkolene ProS 10w-50.

I have a mint heater matrix for sale fitted for £575. Click on the link in my sig.

The plastic cap is just a dust cover. There is a high pressure valve underneath it to keep the gas in. If you are ever up in the midlands, Ibrar at Pro Alloys check and regas your aircon for a lot less than £60.

I would immediatly walk away from any car that the owner can't be bothered to check the oil level on prior to selling. What does that say for the rest of its maintainance history.

Whatever it is, it is not standard. What aftermarket bits have you got fitted to the car? my first guess would be an alarm/immobiliser.

Hit them from the back side of the caliper with a hammer and small drift while twisting them slightly from the side with a pair of mole grips. If that fails you will have to cut the pins by the pads and get them out with an air hammer. New pins are not that expensive from Toyota and it may be worth investing in a new set and a big tub of copper grease.

If you have kids you'll see the same on Cbeebies on a sunday. Probably the same woman signing the Tweenies

As I said on the phone, get the alarm installation checked again by the installers first. Then have a look at the power supply for the RLTC. Has it got a proper blade fuse or the crappy inline one that it comes with. Hook it up to a laptop and go for a drive with lots of left hand bends and moniter the wheel speed trace. If one of your abs sensors is iffy, it could be causing a hard cut which would stall the engine. Have you taken any notice of the slip setting on the rltc when it cuts out? Try turning it up to 20 - 25% and see if it still does it. I'm about all next weekend if you want to come over and we'll run some diagnostics on the rltc.

Mine is in the same place, recessed into the dash. Its a nice fit there and the serial port connector for the laptop sits right next to the diagnostic port. There is a pic in my garage.

Sounds good depending on the date, Saturdays are best for me:)

You must have misread the original post. The question was how to fix the problem, Not how do I turn my car into a slower, less economical, dangerous MOT failure that is prone to catch fire after 30 miles on the motorway:thumbdown:

I tend to use compressed air to get the piston out, but you can do it using the brake. Get an assistant to very slowly press the brake pedal while you watch the piston. As it gets near to coming out you will see it start to twist slightly in the caliper. Immediatly get your assistant to rellease the brake pedal at this point and you should be able yo just pull the piston out the last couple of mm. If you still have rubber hoses, clamp them now to stop any fluid coming out. You will lose all the brake fluid in the caliper over the floor so have some rag handy. You will need to bleed the brakes after you've rebuilt the calipers.