TrickTT

You probably want to camp as far away from me as possible after what you did to my car:tomato:

Are we having a club camping stand as well?

Black aerotops come with turbos as well:D:D:D:D

Demon tweeks sell it : LINKY Last time i fitted some, you soak it in water to soften it up, wrap the pipe and let it dry and it stays put, although you can use metal tie clips at each end.

Dbb turbos only require an oil mist on the bearing, so yes, they should have a small oil supply hole. Cant help on your other Q's cos i've never played with one:)

I have a Greddy 60mm electronic peak hold boost gauge and it has developed a problem. It worked fine last time i used the car, but today, the warning light is flashing and it reads low. When the engine is off, it is showing about 400mm/hg vac (instead of 0) and the with the engine on, the needle sits right on the lower stop. I know the pressure signal from the manifold is ok as the avcr uses the same take off and that works fine. I suspect the pressure sensor, but has anyone else had a similar problem?

Not totally true. Diesels need big heavy pistons and rods to withstand the huge combustion pressure ( diesels typically run over 20:1 compression ratio), so recipriocating mass is a factor in max rpm. In truck or large cc engines, each cylinder is displacing at least 1.5 litre (eg a 12 litre, 6 cylinder engine has a piston displacement of 2 litres, compared to 500cc or less for an average car - including a supra) so as a rule the stroke is much longer - diesels tend to run under square (stroke> bore) engines anyway. That is ideal for huge torque but it does mean that mean piston speed can get very high as revs increase. Keeping mean piston speed down is good for engine longevity as it places less stress on rods and big and little end bearings.

Thanks Guys No mate, ran everything stock. Problem was too much grip i think. It was hot as hell on saturday and the track was very sticky. I was power braking up to about 2.5k (didn't want to wreck the gearbox) and it was bogging down in 1st, even with the racelogic turned off. I Lied:innocent: You up for the ring next year:eyebrows:. No problem mate, there was a few supras spread round on other stands that I didn't get to speak to either. Saw you race the skyline though:thumbs:

Heres some pics of me on the strip, taken by the pro photographer there:) My best time of the day was a 14.08 @105mph, which was a little dissapointing tbh, but it was my first ever time on the strip, and I need to practice my starts, my 0 - 60ft times were awful. Fingers crossed for some better times at japshow.

Engine looks like it is loosly based on a 2JZ though - they wouldn't get that time with a 7M:p What happened to the Envy supe on sunday Kev?

I wouldn't buy your old one, but there are plenty of nice ones about for 10k Life is too short to put money in a bank.

None, Unless you have a late mk iii, then you're screwed:D

Do VVTi's still have a kickdown switch under the pedal? Could be that>

What did you use to seal them. The first time i did mine i had the same problem, so i re-did them and used black windscreen sealer ( ask nicely at your local autoglass ) and they've been fine for 18months now.

If you go with rltc you can leave the stock trac switched on as the racelogic cuts in way before the stock one does, or you can come to rotorstock and bug me to build the switchoff box that i've had designed on paper for over 6 months now.

Are we planning on racing on saturday or sunday, and what time do we have to be there to sign up. I wont finish work until 4am on saturday morning.

rwhp was about 355, i've got the chart somewhere, but i cant find it. rolling weight, including me ( and i'm a fat bastard ) is 1610kg.

I meshed mine using the same brushed aluminium as the bumper. I think Lui has his done as well. It is a real PITA job to do unless the skirts are off the car. I did them from the back and made a cardboard template of the hole, I then used the card to make a plywood template and bent the mesh round that. Once the mesh is shaped, I fitted it over the vent by removing the plastic grill in the rear wheel well and secure it using black silicon. This is the best pic i could find.

My rear lights turned up today Jon, many thanks:thumbs:

I have a dyno plot of power and torque in my garage

1. Rays the roof (NA) 13.732@101mph. No further mods 2. Broomie (Now Running as doesn't want to wear drag) 3. letmeshowyou 12.88s@111mph. New Smic, bigger (heavier) wheels 4. TrickTT Never run before BPU++, but i'm confident it'll be in the 8's:d 5. Uzthedentist 6. Ian R 13.42@103mph. No further Mods 7. S CRANE 8. Stevie Boy 9. M5W TT - Ill have a pop at this - Stock TT, No Previous Time I'm running over with some of the mids guys, so i'll see you all there

What Matt said. I've got the Thor wiring diagram somewhere. I'll try to find it if you need it. That will raise your max cruise speed to 110mph

They are standard 21w single pin bayonet fitting with opposed lugs. Available from just about any part shop in orange and Halfords do the silver ones for less than £10 per pair.

Following on from my [thread=114296]what brake pad[/thread] thread a few weeks ago, I ended up going with the Hawk brembo spec from MVP. They haven't been on the car that long yet so I cant comment on pad life, but i'm impressed:thumbs:. Hit these and its like slamming into a wall, they are in a different league for stopping compared to the CW pads, although they have a bit less "feel" through the pedal. I've got uk calipers with 3G 10 groove front discs and stock rear discs, with braided lines, motul rbf600 fluid and a cusco master cylinder brace. I highly recommend these, Thanks Dusty:D

I used to do a lot of shooting and i moved from a spring to precharged and loved it. Much quieter and no kick. only problem is running out of air in the middle of a field. Hand pumps are bloody hard work and spare cylinders are expensive.