TrickTT

Sorry, no pics, but its quite simple. There is a small U-shaped reflector rivited to the light unit, drill the rivits and remove it, then stick the LEDs to the inside of the light. Run the wires through to the back of the light. You'll have to cut the stock wires where they attach to the standard bulb holders and solder them to the wires from the new LEDs. Get them the right way round; -ve is attached to the switches, +ve goes directly to the multiplug. You'll see what i mean when you've got the light assembly in your hands:)

Yes, got a pair in mine. You have to do a bit of modification to the light assembly and hard wire them in place , but much brighter than stock and look great. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370020085864

Sorry Jonah, Sunday for me

Sounds like the vacuum feed for the brake servo. No problem to remove it, just be careful not to loose the copper washers.

I know its only a fiver, but thats what you get for trusting nu labia

No problem give me a ring/pm and i'll get you sorted. Be a couple of weeks though.

Isn't the rltc diagnostic done on a laptop? I've got the software and lead here if you need to borrow them.

They always say that first to get out of paying, If you keep bothering them on the phone / by post they'll pay up.

My double sixes, 18 x 9F and 18 x 10.5R, but less offset than Chingys for the standard front wings. £2k + tyres from Envy a couple of years ago.

This is mine, not as fancy as some, but I had to keep it all low enough to put the roof in.

I have 2 mounted on the sides of the chassis rails under the headlights and another 2 mounted on the front crossmember.

I've no experience of any other kits, but i'm quite impressed with the AEM one, easy to install and set up. I have also heard that next to the intercooler is better, but the AEM and aquamist kits both say to mount the injector at the same level, or higher than the water tank - presumably to prevent syphoning.

Its almost impossible to do, i've heard that even CW struggles:innocent:. Best just sell me those chrome vacuum pipes:p

I've finally got round to taking a couple of pics of my AEM water injection kit. Its a nice alternative to the aquamist stuff, and cheaper as well (thanks Dusty ). It can run up to 50% methanol mix with water (I'm currently running 25%). I'm very happy with the kit, there is a definate reduction in EGT on boost. This is what you get in the box: The 1 gallon tank includes a low fluid sensor. I mounted mine to the back of my sub enclosure in the boot. You can just see the filler cap in this pic. I ran the water line down the n/s under the carpet and through a grommet into the inner wing, and then to the pump in the engine bay. The pump is mounted in place of the charcoal cannister. I made a mounting bracket out of 3mm aluminium that bolts to the charcoal cannister mounting points. You can just see the pressure sensitive variable controller mounted on the back of the pump bracket (its normally covered with an aluminium cover plate). I've set it up to start the pump running at 0.5 bar and to reach full flow at 1.1 bar. I've also added a small additional fuse box at the bottom right of the pic. Its got the fuse for the water injection, as well as ones for my HIDs, remote start and smart windows - i got fed up of having loads of inline fuses cable-tied round the engine bay. I welded a piece of aluminium to the Greddy hard pipe and drilled and tapped it for the injector nozzle. The kit includes 3 different nozzle sizes: the small one is too small for a supra, i'm using the medium one, and the large would be suitable for single turbos. The water hose is clipped into brackets mounted on the inner wing. I modified the right hand warning cluster for the status LED. On is pump running, and it flashes for fault codes. I added a master switch mounted in the upper glove box; this does not come with the kit. Finally the completed engine bay:D

Just paid £180 for mine to start 01/04/2008. Thanks Pete:thumbs:, just saved me whatever that robbing ******* has put it up by in the budget. Passed its MOT earlier today as well:D

Doesn't matter, spent 2 hrs polishing mine yesterday and its still filthy, from being parked on the drive overnight.

In theory yes, but if your car is already taxed to the end of March, I think Pete is saying that they will send you a new one to run from 1st april even if it is before the supposed cut off date of the 15th. Hopefully i will find out tomorrow.

Thanks Pete, mine is in for MOT on wednesday and if it passes, i'll try putting the tax through early as well.

They are not that expensive new from Toyota and they are a revised part, with much thicker metal and some extra bracing added. I've seen several of the original type that have just rusted away by the exhaust joint.

Got mine from Nic for less than £30 shipped from memory, But its not a dead simple job to replace. You have to cut the wires for the o/d switch and re-attach them underneath the shift mechanism. Take the centre console (armrest) off and it took me about 1hr to do.

Many thanks for the translation , but its no help at all The mystery continues...

Im sure it helps:), but apart from removing the fuel cut, that extra board just does not have enough components or connections to the main ecu boards to directly modify either the injector control or ignition timing. All i can think is it modifies one of the sensor inputs - water or air temp or somthing. I'll have to hope someone can translate the japanese on the sticker and see if it tells me somthing.

be interesting to find out.

I've just taken the lid off my (what i thought was standard) ECU and found this aftermarket circuit board inside. There are 5 wires from the coloured ribbon cable is soldered to the back of the main circuit board( the rest are just cut off). There is a sticker on the back side of the ecu case, but apart from the date (the car was still in japan at this time) i cant read any of it. As far as i know, it removes fuel cut, but it doesn't affect the speed limiter and there is not enough comonents on it to store a remap so it may be some kind of signal fudger. It is definatly not a mines ecu. Anybody know who makes it and what it does please.

I think the aerotop carpet is the same as the hardtop, only difference is depending on if you have the stock sub (GZ, UK spec) or not.