milocoon

Where can I get some reviews or advice ?

I`ve been looking for a cheap ferry crossing to France and these are very very reasonable. Pro`s £63 return for 2 +car (well under half of Brittany Ferries) Con`s £25 to change booking, limited cabins, 23:00 only sailing to France Any good / bad experiences please ?

Hi All, there must be 100,s of different Alloy Wheels out there ! Prices vary from £100 to £1000 per wheel, so what makes an alloy wheel worth this price range ? Paul Whiffin has some Ultralites which I like the look off, in BLACK I thing they could pass for Racing Harts C4-R but at under half the price ? Give me some feedback or is it simply PRIMARK verses NIKE and you pay for a name ?

Heres the bad news from the Budget today ! BBC NEWS The new car tax bands VEHICLES IN NEW VED BANDS Band CO2 emissions VED bill* Examples A Smart diesel (90 g/km) B 101-120 g/km £40 Toyota Prius 1.5 litre petrol-electric hybrid (104 g/km) Smart car 0.7 litre petrol (113 g/km) Citroen C2 1.4 litre diesel (108 g/km) Ford Fiesta 1.4 diesel (114 g/km CO2) C 121-150 g/km £100 Fiat Panda 1.2 petrol (127 g/km) Ford Ka 1.3 petrol (147 g/km) VW Golf 1.9 TDI diesel (143 g/km) Ford Focus 1.8 TDCi diesel hatchback (143 g/km) Jaguar X-type 2.0 diesel saloon (149 g/km) D 151-165 g/km £125 VW Passat estate 1.9 TDI diesel (159 g/km) MINI One hatchback 1.6 petrol, manual (164 g/km) Ford Fiesta 1.6i petrol (154 g/km) Peugeot 307 1.4 petrol (155 g/km) E 166-185 g/km £150 Ford Mondeo saloon 1.8i petrol (182 g/km) Vauxhall Vectra 1.8 petrol saloon (177 g/km) Rover 75 1.8 petrol salon (manual) (185 g/km) Toyota Avensis 1.8 petrol saloon/hatchback (171 g/km) F 186-225 g/km £190 Land Rover Freelander 2.0 diesel (205 g/km) Toyota RAV4 2.0 litre petrol (211 g/km) Audi A4 1.6 petrol (187 g/km) BMW 5 series estate 3.0 diesel (212 g/km) Mazda MX5 2.0 petrol (191 g/km) G > 225 g/km £210 Jaguar X type 2.0 petrol saloon auto (239 g/km) Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe 3.6 litre petrol (269 g/km) Renault Espace 2 lite petrol (229 g/km) BMW X5 4.8 litre petrol (324 g/km) Range Rover 4.4 V8 petrol auto (389 g/km) Source: Department of Transport * Add £10 for a diesel car in bands B, C, D and E and £5 for a diesel car in bands F and G. Story from BBC NEWS: http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/pr/fr/-/1/hi/business/4834480.stm Published: 2006/03/22 17:02:19 GMT © BBC MMVI

You could remove it from the car (metal CPU box) with cable B (has the led and serial plug on that loom:blink: ) and power it with 12 V in the house by using pin 2 for +ve and pins 1 and 14 for negative. What do you need to change as the Digital Adjuster can change quite a few things. I`ve not needed a laptop at all

Boomer is correct, I`m not sure how the green LED is lit, I remember reading somewhere that there is a switch on the Active Spoiler which senses when its down in the correct position and switches the motor off, it may be that this is how the LED is illuminated in the Active Spoiler switch in the car dash panel. You`ve not chosen the easiest of projects, if the wiring loom is in the car it would be a breeze.

Its quite easy to do this, have a look on the Thor site.

I think Combination Meter is your Speedo/Tacho/Fuel and Temperature guage cluster. There are 3 multipin connectors going to this. From memory Some of the ECU wires were quite thick as they take highish current to the motor I guess.

For a J-Spec Supra This goes to two destinations 1) Speedometer Blue/Red Wire 2) Odometer Blue/Red Wire If you have a KM/hr to M/hr conversion fitted the Odometer re-broadcasts a m/ph signal using a pink wire to the ECU,Cruise,Autobox,AirCon,PPS and Active Spoiler. All the above circuits were set up by Toyota to receive km/hr signals and not m/hr signals. In my case I connected the Blue/Red wire going to the odometer to the pink wire leaving the odometer having cut the pink wire between the loom and the odometer connector block. This means they get the same signal as they had originally. (I`m explaining it in simple turns before someone corrects me) Join into the Blue/Red wire and go directly to the Active Spoiler ECU on the terminal the pink wire would have gone to and the spoiler will deploy at 90km/hr rather than 90m/ph. I did this to mine recently. No idea about the L on a wiring diagram though !

Again heres a link which may be useful ! http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/spoiler1.htm

You need the harness behind the dash, my GZ has active spoiler and cruise control so it might be that SZ/RZ models have a different harness. See picture, its the top silver box (active spoiler ECU) If you want to do this manually then its two relays or I believe there is one relay wich has a double throw if youu research this further, heres a diagram from Pete Betts I believe.

Two stickers for the car and calling cards, thanks for sending these, weird how they arrived today !

Thanks Red M would really appreciate an answer to 1) as I am thinking of getting under the passenger dash on Saturday to sort this out once and for all. My guess is they used E10-16 (UK/US) or A3-16 TACHO ( J-SPEC) which is a white/black wire on the ECU joined to the white/black wire on the RLTC unit, I used the recommended A1-28 red/yellow wire (or E9-58 yes thats 58 but same place as 28 on a J-Spec) according to the Racelogic Diagram ! with a software setting for 6 Cylinders. "According to Racelogic the box for number of cylinders is ONLY used as an RPM/DIVIDER to CORRECT an RPM signal depending on WHERE the signal is obtained from. So if this was set to 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 it would have no effect on injector cuts as it is purely for RPM correction Quote from Mike Broadbent " You have made a good decision and let someone else sort out out the fine tuning for RLTC, I feel as though I`m almost there but theres no definitive article on how to wire up a J-Spec TT yet, but I`m gonna post my final install afterwards to help out others who want to save a few quid and also learn about modern car electronics ! Cheers Mate

Hi RedM would it be possible to ask Envy 1) which wire they spliced into for the RPM signal to RLTC (Black/White on RLTC) I think it could be (E9-58 or A1-28 called IGNITER FEEDBACK) or (E10-16 or A3-16 called TACHO) ? 2) In the RLTC Configuration for CYLINDERS did they input 1 or 6 ? The reason I ask is my Digital Adjuster shows very roughly 1/6 of the indicated RPM and I`m using A1-28 for my RPM signal. Thanks in advance Milocoon

Bump;)

Hi I have a J-Spec TT Auto and have found a few electrical diagrams. Can someone confirm or hopefully correct my interpretations. From the auto gearbox the speed sensor finds its way up to the speedometer head, on its way up to here it tees off to the ECU in the passenger footwell (or is somewhere else in the loom?). From the speedometer head it travels to the odometer module and then the odometer module outputs an identical signal to cruise control, active spoiler, pps (where is the pps ecu located?) and aircon (where is the aircon ecu located?) The reason I`m asking is I want to check the wiring for my car which has been converted from km/hr to m/hr. I know so far that a speed converter is fitted and just need to understand the original wiring, everything apart from my active spoiler is working okay AFAIK.

Envy should be a lot quicker than me as I went slowly but carefully and it was quite cold outside on my drive. Might need to move my RPM wire to another location as my revs are`nt showing the same as my Tacho (used A1-28), does anybody on here know the terminal location for the TACHO wire on the ECU A1, A2 or A3 I think its probally on A3 (as that`s where the UK/US diagram shows it as E10 terminal 16) but its only a guess ?

This .dat was for tight winter in an AUTO supra. Config Menu Screen Cylinders = 6 It mentions in the manual that a 6 cylinder with 2 coils should be set to 3 Cylinders if RPM is picked up off one coil, I used the Red/Yellow wire which is described as IGNITER off of A1-T (same physical location as a US model which uses E9-58) and the revs seem low compared to my tacho ? Do I need to change the 6 to 1 ? (6 coil packs) It says in the manual to change this value until the rpm is correct. Minimum Operating Thresholds is set for 2250 RPM reading the manual, below this setting the system will not operate, I`ll check tomorrow but if I`m showing low on the Digital adjuster then the RLTC won`t do anything until I`m revving high ? The wheel speeds at 52 MPH displaced as 81/81/81/81 KMH on the Adjuster so thats fine.

Its a good whole day to put this in and you need a portable gas soldering iron, be careful where the waste heat from the tip goes. i had a problem with the car refusing to start afterwards and it was the alarm/immobiliser in the end. If you conact racelogic then mike broadbent will send you a diagram for 1) UK model, 2) JAP model or 3) US model. If its a newer VVTi you will need to find out for that as well. I don`t own a laptop so went for the Digital Adjuster and set up the unit at home using a 12V power supply and connected to a Home PC with serial port. I tried reading the settings off the unit but it had Error- reading traction memory, I then tried writing a new .dat file from MKiV store and it failed Error- writing traction memory so I phoned mike at racelogic and returned it, it had a comms problem so my brand new box is on its second PCB now. A quick description of how I did mine, remove passenger seat, pull off trim along sill and pull the carpet back. 2 x 10mm headed nuts hold the ECU cover down so remove these. Undo a 3rd nut underneath and the ECU`s can be moved. TRAC ecu is on the LHS and has a pull connector, remove and store this somewhere safe. Main ECU is on the RHS and has 2 connectors, the top one for A1 and A2 has a 10mm headed bolt to remove and then you can pull this out, A3 just pulls out. Remove the ECU and store somewhere safe. I used the 8 terminal connectors once I worked out how to insert the pins into the plastic blocks fully and I tinned the cut wires A1-1 to A1-6 one at a time and crimped and soldered each one, it was very difficult and I have bruises on my side from leaning on the sill whilst carrying this out.Power/Earth/RPM were easier, ABS wires tricky.

Securitas Depot Shopping, wonder if Scotland Yard are checking this forum ?

Shot in 2002, beaten by a Maestro. OK its a Special. The Orange one has 200 more ponies so a good launch and I reckon Rocket Ronnie (R33GTR) might struggle now !

Hi, my GZ Aerotop has an active spoiler. The Previous owner told me he never saw the green LED come on indicating it was deployed. I tried today with the ignition on but the engine not running and pressed the down button, the LED went green and it has dropped. I`ve had the car up to 100mph and no green light with the active spoiler off button OUT. Any ideas whats wrong ? ECU ? No speed conversion wire ? Fuse ? Thanks in advance ! Milocoon PS Cruise Control and Speedometer readings appear to work perfectly .

At least the Fish and chips would be fresh.

Starting bid £1 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Supra-removable-aerotop-roof-hard-2-find_W0QQitemZ4605541938QQcategoryZ10428QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This is a reply from from another Internet supplier. Hi Milo Thanks for your email I am pleased to say that the HID kits I sell all have UV filters and are therefore safe for plastic lenese. Most of the cars I have sold kits for have had plastic lenses including some of our own cars. I also have sold a kit to a guy with the same car as you with the 9006J. As the forum says the uk 9006 bulbs have the tabs in the right place, but the diameter is too big, and the 9005 has the right diameter but wring tabs. I modified the 9005s and they fit perfect. Happy customer, not heard from him sinceJ You need to file the tabs, and not use a sharp knife to cut them as they break if you do it that way. It only takes a few mins to alter them. I recommend the Pilot kit for your car- and as a forum member I can do it for 199.99 plus pp. The kits I have use stainless steel ballasts not painted ones! You can buy using the following link, and I also keep the 9005 and 9006 in stock http://www.hids4u.co.uk/product_details.asp?id=155 Regards Ian