Pedroby

I have a set of 16 inch Supra GE wheels taking space in my garage that I'd like to sell. Please let me know if you are interested. Open to any offer!! Shipment from Netherlands is no problem. Or pickup for local Dutch forum members! Good condition, no scars or damages, only a little coating/paint peeling off due to aging. No tyres! All wheel caps included! Pics to follow later or on request.

I mean the 1 piece skirt

Looking for Oem side skirts and aftermarket bumperlip. Please pm me if you have anything!

And is there a difference in the interior wiring loom from the GE car and the GTE engine wiring loom which causes this problem then? I havent been able to check the wires today! But will give it a shot tomorrow. I ll check the ECU wires the colours mentioned above and then try the wires at the gearbox that goes to the manu button. Roger thanks as well for your input! Sounds like I am on the rit track to find a solution for my long term problem. Possible solution sounds very logical!

Thanks for the good tip!! I will check this out hopefully when it's still light outside once I come home! Sounds like you might be right! But another problem is that the overdrive is not working. Might this also have to do with the interior loom different wire routing compare to the GTE loom? Something happens when I press the O/D button, but it's freaking and not working how it should.

I am very interested in how your car will run! As you might face the same problems as I do atm. http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?302388-Auto-Shifting-problems-after-GTE-A-T-swap-solution-ABS-AEM-ECU-M-T

Dear all, I need urgent help with my long running problem with the Supra. I have swapped out the GE stock engine and replaced for a Supra GTE engine, Supra GTE Auto box incl driveline and Supra GTE autobox engine loom. BUT: the car is not shifting gear how it should. When I drive the car from standing position in the D-gear position. It runs, but not how it should. Full throttle makes it rev a lot, but dont drive fast. Only half throttle seems to work. Kickdown is working, but makes the car slowing down and not move too much. When I start in L-position I can drive faster and then switch gear to 2-position and then to D-position. So it seems like it's on MANU-mode. But no matter how many times I press the MANU button...nothing happens!! I am getting desperate for a solution and would love to drive the car with it's potential it has. It's a stck J-spec engine with fresh turbos and a full decat with Blitz Nur Spec R at the end and a restrictor ring. The HKS FCD and uprated fuel pump are in the box waiting for installation. But I dont want to take any risks by changing things from stock to avoid more/new problems. My car is a NON ABS example and it seems like the GTE AUTO ECU need input signals from the ABS (wheel speed)sensors. Correct me if I'm wrong as this seems crucial!! I am considering an AEM V1 system which is up for sale in the sale section. BUT, will this AEM ECU also need the input signals from the stock ABS system? Or is this fully programmable? For example, can I/tuning company write a custom programm for me to meet my requirements to drive the car proper without shifting problems? Many thanks in advance for expertise and advises!

I have no idea....anybody??

Yes I have the correct ECU for an Auto bosx TT J-spec. I even borrowed an ECU to check if the ECU was broken, but same problem. Might it be the problem that the body loom is not an ABS loom? As the GTE is standard with ABS. If so I can get my hands on a body loom from an ABS car, but before I will try this first would like to discuss the problem here as it's quite a hard job to chage the interior loom completely.

Yes I did! The oil level is also good according to the dip stick.

It was all J-spec. The old GE engine was a J-spec auto and the new GTE is also fully J-spec (as far as I know the box is from a J-spec as well). The propellor shaft have been changed and the only GE auto part is the differential. But this should not make any sens I believe. I have refreshed the auto box fluid, with the correct fluid type and brought my car after some problems to a man who carried out swappings many times and brought this to an end successful! I havent replaced any oil strainers. Any pics of which ones you mean? Triple checked all connectors and they all are clicked and connected proper.

Hi guys, I have swapped my GE engine into a GTE engine, from a Supra. After some problems with an Aristo wiring loom I get my hands on an original Supra GTE loom for auto box. The engine also came out of a Supra (no aristo!!) and the auto box is Supra GTE auto bos as well. BUT the problem is that the auto box don't want to shift proper. It just shift when it want to and tried many things with the gear know to shift i different positions, but it is nearly undriveable as it backfires and keep high revving all the time. Anybody an idea what might be the problem/solution? Many thanks in advance....I want the car driving now as it's just standing since spring!!!

I have a running Supra project where I have swapped a GE engine out and a GTE J-spec autobox engine in. After a lot of problems with an Aristo loom on a Supra engine (my advise...never try!) I found a Supra loom and the engine is running smooth now. But the autobox is not shifting as it should. It seems like it's missing signals or sensors to shift gear. The gearbox fluid have been changed with the Toyota right spec gear box fluid so that might not be the issue. Could it have something to do with the ABS that is missing on my car that the ECU is missing some info when to change gear? Please I need help!! As the car is already standing still for almost a year now!! specs: J-spec Supra engine GTE stock twins Supra autobox Many thanks in advance!

uhmm do you know which wire is the map wire near the ECU?

I removed the canister already and will block the vacuum line then. Or maybe I can use this vacuum to connect to my Apexi BOV vacuum connection? I havent connected one of the PS vacuum lines as one of the plastic pins to put the line on on the pump ' connector' is broken, so only one is connected. But I almost can't believe this open vacuum at the trac. part of the intake will have such an influence on the engine the way it runs now. The engine is still black smoking and runs way to rich on the fuel.

Thanks Kaahari for the reply. You mean the EGR system? I have no EGR on my J-spec. Might be different then where the vacuum line need to lead to. Anybody?? How hard can it be to take a picture of you engine bay detailed on this part

Almost finished with a swap from GE --> GTE J-spec engine. But the engine is not running proper, lots of black smoke and ' waving' in RPM like it's running in a safe mode or something. Already did the diagnose trick and there are no fault codes. I am almost sure it must be a vacuum issue on the intake manifold. From the stock FPR one vacuum line goes in bypass with 2 lines to 1: Map sensor (yellow arrow on picture) and 2: to the vacuum ' bolt' with the black plastic bulby looking connection next to the map sensor (red arrow in picture). PLEASE correct me if this is wrong!! Then the 3th vacuum line (purplish blue arrow, left on the picture) Can anybody tell me where this one goes to? Or maybe a vacuum diagram, or even better some pictures of your block how it should be. Need help big time!! As the car is finally ready to roll, but with the black smoke out of it....it don't feel good to bring her home. Any other suggestions are more than welcome! (BTW I took this pic of the net, so it's not my car).

Nobody??

Tried a few local Toyota dealers but they all seem to see water burning when I ask them for a simple nut and dont have a chassis number for them as my car has undergone a GE---> GTE swap. What I need are the nuts to connect the propeller shaft on the flange of the auto gearbox on a Supra GTE gear box. Seems quite easy to me, also as I can find pics of it easily in the manual. But after I tried different type of nuts, I still haven't found the right ones! I already tried M12, M12 x 1.25 but both were not the right ones. They seem to fit, but when you try to tighten them, the nuts come loose. And no my tread is not damaged Please help me out what nut size and type I need!!

Almost finished my ge --> gte supra engine swap with an aristo wiring loom. But I still have two problems to solve Which I cant find an answer for online. 1: the engine is from a supra j spec GTE and the wiring loom is from a gte aristo. The aristo lambda sonde connector on the loom have 3 wires and the supra lambda on the engine has two. I ve heard one wire is just for pre warming of the header, but can anybody tell me which one that is. And if I can just leave that useless wire loose or do i need to splice it with another wire. Or even do i need a lambda from an aristo to make it work fine. 2: the 40 pin connector pin18 is so called ' A/T normal / power mode select. I understand there is a button on the aristo to choose another gear mode to have a more sporty experience with longer and or higher revvy character. Can I just leave this wire unconnected to another wire or do i need to splice it to amother wire from the gte engine/gearbox. The gearbox is from a gte supra as well. Would be interesting to have a sport mode, so can anybody please help me out with this. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the quick help Dnk. Now I understand why I couldnt find the tubes...I didnt got them delivered with the engine.... Frustrating as these tiny bits delay the swap project big time.

Could anybody tell me where the water bypass pipes/hoses for the IAC valve are comin Many thanks for helping.

Thanks guys, I understand that part and just fabricated myself a restrictor ring with 50 mm hole. But in theory you could also experiment with bigger size restrictor rings. But then still in my opinion this is stupid tuning as you first put a big pipe on the engine and then restrict it again Would say there must be a better way. But this is definitely the most cost efficient way to be effective.

Thanks for the replies and link, which I already knew, but couldnt find any info about remapping or adding piggybacks to the ECU to make it more efficient. Complete ECU remap is maybe interesting for any future projects with single turbo.

Probably this question is asked many times but I can't find the answer via the search function. I have a J-spec (A/T) GTE stock twins setup with stock SMIC, both decats, Blitz Nur spec R catback and go for upgraded Walbro 255 pump and HKS FCD. Will also replace the spark plugs for a colder type. Apexi BOV will also be installed but I suppose that will have no influence for the setup. I know after removing both cats and mount a free flow catback the turbo pressure will go sky high and blow the engine. But is it that easy just to add a proper boost controller, such as the Greddy, Blitz or HKS? A member just told me even with a boost controller I still need the restrictor ring between the decat pipes. But that sounds kinda weird...you upgrade to bigger for free flow and than add another restrictor. Can we conclude the aftermarket exhaust systems are all oversized then? What do I have to do to lower the boost without a restrictor ring? Or do I need to remap the ECU? Add a piggyback or something different? If so, what remapping is required or recommended?