normore1

36 psi stock pressure should be fine. With 'Z' speed rated tires the chace of blowout due to overheating at slightly lower pressures is miniscule. Higher pressures tend to increase wear in the middle of the tread but generally increases overall tire life due to less squirm and heat generation. Lower pressures move wear to the edges. All things being equal (they rarely are)launch grip should be higher with lower pressures but skidpad and transient response is generally increased with higher pressures. You can influence the handling balance (oversteer or understeer) by changing the front/rear tire pressures to change the handling charecteristics.

If it's truly a DSBC (Dual Solenoid Boost Controller) then it should contain a dual solenoid actuator. Unfortunately it appears that Blitz marketing choose to replace the SSBC (single solenoid) by pairing the DSBC controller with a single solenoid actuator under the hood. The only way to tell the difference is to visually check the solenoid. The single consists of a solenoid (similar to a VSV) in a brass frame while the double is enclosed in a larger plastic housing. The good news is that either will control boost up to 1.5 BAR. The only supposed advantage of the DSBC Spec R is faster response.

Full fill with new stock filter is 5.3 liters. However it rarely shows full immediately after an oil change even with the correct amount. Supra's are notoriously bad for slow drainage to the base pan afer a cold oil fill. Be sure to let the car sit on even ground for at least and hour before checking otherwise you can overfill. Even if you need some to top up you do not need to use Silkolene. All petro fueled motor oils are designed to be compatible to meet API and MIL-Spec standards. However it would be prudent to add an oil of similar composition. Silkolene Synthetic depending on type is either a pure ester or ester/PAO blend. Mobil 1 is a ester/PAO blend and equivelent in quality certainly more than up to the task for a top up of a less than a liter. I would suggets that you avoid semi-synthetics and hydro-cracked psuedo-synthetics like Castrol, Valvoline, etc. since you pay the same as a real synthetic (designer molecule) for an inferior product.

It's the dryer for the Air conditioning. With the A/C on it should be clear with only a few small bubbles. If it is cloudy, the system is likely low on R-32 refrigerant. Normal operation is that it will show some bubbles upon start up of the A/C the clear within about a minute. To test turn the climate control to auto and the temperature to lowest setting. As Ian says the grey cap covers the high pressure side valve. This is used for checking the A/C system pressures. If I recall correctly the high pressure side should normally be about 200-250 psi and the low side is 25-45 psi depending on ambient temperature and RPM. Sight bubble is actually very good at determining the status of the A/C fill.

The toyota V160 oil is just Esso Dextron II ATF fluid repackaged in Japan and then imported. The Toyota manual specifies two oils: the V160 and Esso Dextron II ATF. A number of people have used other fluid including Royal Purple and Mobil1 ATF. To my knowledge the only fluid known to cause problems in the Supra V160 6-speed is Red Line MTB which due to excessive seal swell agent caused the bushing in the gear selector to stick and not recenter automatically.

Go to for procedure with pics: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48634

Grooves, slots and/or cross drilling is a feature used on race disks to release gas created from pad material being heated under hard braking. The gas can lift the pad and reduce braking efficiency. Cross drilled rotors (disks) are weaker and are subject to cracking. Slotted rotors will not crack but wear faster due to less surface area and will wear pads faster. These features are mostly show (bling) with little real benefit to the typical Supra owner. Stock disks (UK spec) are excellent for anything other than full road racing and as an added benefit are also pretty cheap. The Supra TT with stock brakes is still one of the best stopping machines ever tested by the auto mags. BTW Green Stuff pads suck. AMHIK Stock TT pads are pretty damn good and Hawk HPS Pads are a decent upgrade. Better response with about the same dust.

cal kit frt-#04479-14140 [TT] cal kit rear-#04479-14130 [TT]

Front pads definitely are wrong. Following are part numbers for all UK/USA spec TT brake parts. frt pads-#04465-14150 [TT] frt shims-#04945-14110[TT] frt clips-#04947-14010 [TT] frt pad pins-#90240-06019[TT] rear pads-#04466-14040 [TT] rear shims-#04946-14030 [TT] rear clips-#04948-14010 [TT] rear pad pins-#90240-06017 [TT] frt rotor rh-#43512-14200 [TT] frt rotor lh-#43516-14030 [TT] rear rotors-#42431-14150 [TT]

The Supra (UK Spec) used Tokico shocks as stock on the TT. Same on the US and European models. I do not know about J-spec. Koni's were not an option on the UK spec. To my knowledge, the TT did not have any suspension options. However, the spring rates on the 1993 thru 1996 models were supposedly stiffer than the later years.

Buy a brake bleed kit from Gunson. Makes it simple. More tedious but not too complicated takes two people: 1) Have a friend inside the car pump the brakes 3-4 times and then hold down 2) with a hose over the bleeder screw to a catch can, back off the bleeder screw until fluid pours out into the can (important friend keeps foot pressure on the pedal until you close the bleeder) 3) close the bleeder screw 4) repeat until you see clear fluid coming through into the catch can. Start at the wheel furthest from the reservoir (left rear) and work your way to the closest. Make sure the reservoir does not go empty or you will have to start from scratch. It's easy but easier with Gunson kit.

Ian, the high speed miss that is experienced by Supra's at higher boost levels with stock plugs is due to too big a gap and not due to elevated plug temperatures. Stock plugs are definitely 1.1mm. The problem with the stock plug is that the energy generated across the large gap is not high enough to ignite the denser mixture provided at high boost. Gapping down the stock plug will fix the miss but then you could have some pre-ignition at high boost levels. A colder plug may be required but is not necessary for BPU mild increases of ~1.2 BAR. Singles and even BPU in hot climates may need a colder plug (NGK range 7 or Denso 22). However, changing plug heat range only will not fix the miss unless the lower heat range plug also has a smaller gap. Typically 0.8 - 0.9mm is OK for up to 1.3 BAR to stop miss. The rule of thumb is to lower gap by ~0.2mm from stock for each 75 additional HP. If HP is increased by more than 150 above stock (>500 HP) you may also need to increase spark energy to stop a miss. Your explaination of the relationship between plug temperature and pre-ignition has a number of misconceptions. Here is some info from NGK: The temperature of the spark plug's firing end must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. This is called "Thermal Performance", and is determined by the heat range selected. It is important to remember that spark plugs do not create heat, they can only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat. The rate of heat transfer is determined by: The insulator nose length Gas volume around the insulator nose The materials/construction of the center electrode and porcelain insulator A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material. Higher octane fuel reduces pre-ignition (and associated detonation) as will improved charge cooling and or lower boost pressures.

There is a Tech article at the USA site: http://www.mkiv.com that describes how to add power adjustment to Euro Spec headlights. North American headlights are also plastic lenses with no power adjust but a number of people have swapped for glass Euro Spec (continent) headlights.

Caster is definitely adjustable (although only by a couple of degrees). Do not be surprised if you cannot get the full 5 deg that Lance recommends. The adjustment uses the same cams as used for the camber. If caster is knocked out then toe and camber will also be knocked out of adustment. They are all inter-dependent. Sequence for adjustment is to do the caster re-adjust for camber then lock then do the toe.

There should be three adjusting screws on the back of the headlight assembly. One adjusts heiight of main + dip, the other adjusts left/right aim and the other level of fogs. The main and dip height is adjusted by the innermost (closest to center of the car) screw/bolt (8 mm head I think). The next one adjuster out is for left/right and closest to the outside is fog level.

If you are getting higher max boost in TTC then you have a problem with your sequential control system, most likely with your IACV actuator or VSV. Another likely area is the vacume hoses. The problem you are seeing at high boost (1.2 bar) is ignition miss. Contrary to what ha s been said previously this will not be cured by going to colder plugs. Colder plugs fix pre-ignition problems associated with higher boost not a miss. The miss is caused by too much spark plug gap which is unable to ignite the denser fuel mixture. Stock is 1.1mm and you need to go down to at least 0.9 mm to stop the missing. Since you need a smaller gap you might as well get a colder plug at the same time. Denso Iridium IK22 are a little expensive but have the right gap (0.9 mm) and are one heat range colder than the stock NGK BKR6EP-11. The upside is they will likely last 50K+ miles. Good luck with tracking down your sequential boost problem.

Gents, I can't believe how long this argument has been going back and forth and the number of misconceptions put forth. Chief is obviously wrong . This is not meant to be a flame just a fact. Most of this is basic physics. Turbos take the kinetic energy contained in the exaust (flow velocity) and use it to increase the flow velocity of the intake air. Turbos technically do not generate pressure, they increase air flow velocity and thus volume. Pressure is generated when the flow is resticted (bernoulli effect) along with heat. Think of a garden hose: pressure is high behind the nozzle due to the restriction, open the nozzle and the pressure drops to zero in the atmosphere. BTW, pressure is not additive as someone suggested in a prior post (i.e. 1 bar + 1 bar = 1 bar not 2 bar). If you connect two tire valves togther with a hose and both tires are at 32 psi they will remain at 32 psi (as will pressure in the hose). They definitely do not suddenly increase to 64 psi. So how does the sequential system work (best full description is at the USA MKIV FAQ site) http://www.mkiv.com/faq/faqtt.html#turbosystem1 but roughly: at about 3500-3700 RPM the system switches from single turbo (#1) to parallel. Essentially turbo 1 runs parallel with turbo 2 and the flow ouput of both is combined to feed the engine. Boost pressure is built because of the restriction through the plumbing (pipes and intercooler) and the volume of air being consumed by the pistons is less than what the turbos can supply. Close the intake manifold (throttle valve) and pressure increases (hence the need for a BOV). Above 4000 rpm both turbos see the same exhaust flow (input energy) and since both output sides have access to the same intake air source using the energy they boost the flow volume equally. As noted before pressure only builds as a function of restriction and inability of the engine to consume all of the air volume produced. Pressure is limited by reducing the input energy through use of an exhaust wastegate that bleeds off exhaust gas before the turbos intake impeller. Take out the wastegate and pressure will continue to build until either: the engine consumption matches volume produced (about 22 psi or 1.5 BAR for the UK Supra) at pressure or the turbo shaft twists off. Simple, eh!!!