normore1

Iridiums are supposed to be good for 100K miles in most new vehicles. The Supra at BPU however is far from typical and harder on plugs. I have pulled my IK22's out after 15K miles and they still look good with no signs of any deterioration. I would use the following criteria for replacing: 1) pull them out about once every 10K miles, do a visual inspection and measure the gap. If there are no obvious signs of wear or deposits build up and the gap is +/- 0.05mm (5%) of the original gap then put them back in and keep running. 2) if the car starts running bad at idle or develops a high speed miss, pull them out check the above and replace them if they look bad. Replace them anyway if you can't solve the rough idle or miss.

I have successfully cleaned my MAF with electrosol (electrical contact cleaner) after it became contaminated with K&N filter oil. Three years later still works perfect. Make sure any product you use is guaranteed pure and will not to leave any residual evaporative deposits. The mass air flow sensor works on the simple "hot wire" principle. A constant voltage is applied to the heated film or heated wire positioned in the air stream or in an air flow sampling channel and is heated by the electrical current that the voltage produces. As air flows across it, it cools downcausing resistance to drop as the sensor temperature drops. The drop in resistance allows more current to flow through it in order to maintain the programmed temperature. This current is proportional to the mass of air being pulled into the engine. The engine management system meters in the proper amount of fuel to maintain proper stoichiometric A/F ratio. Technically this is 14.6 to 1 for petrol but in practice the Supra will and should run richer(~12:1). MAF's are simple, reliable and fast reacting but sit in the air flow so can be restrictive and rob power. derek

I would have thought that if it was the FCD then he would hit fuel cut rather than just be limited to maximum 1.0 BAR. Fuel cut is obvious (the fuel shuts off at 1.0 BAR and the MIL lights up. It feels like the car hit a wall similar to when the TRAC cuts in!!! If you are simply hitting boost limit at 1.0 BAR then most likely you have the boost controiller incorrectly plumbed or the programming is set wrong. BTW resetting the ECU will do nothing to fix either boost limit or fuel cut problems. It simply erases the learned air/fuel and timing maps (I think which can vary +/- 10% from the base curve) and resets to the base curve. It will clear any prior fuzzy logic adjustment of the timing curve for pinging, preignition or detonation.

Gaz, not my car or numbers. I'm just playing with the numbers provided by Neo1 who reported he did a 1/4 mile at 10.68 sec with terminal speed of 127 mph. From standard equations (estimates) this works out to be about 600 RWHP. Like the rest of the guys on here, I'm a little incredulous that this could be done on the stock pea shooters. Best I've ever heard of anyone getting out of the stockers (w/o nitrous) is about 430 RWHP and that was with perfectly tuned engine management (for dyno), race gas and an iced down IC. Hard to believe 600 RWHP is possible!!! Possibly a track timing error? derek

Digsy, sorry I should have said more specifically that the HP required to overcome aerodynamic drag increases as a function of a cube of the velocity. HP loss due to Aerodynamic Drag is approximately equal to: Cd * A * (Velocity^3)/150,000 derek

Pretty good physics! However, accelerating the mass is only 1/3 of the equation, you must also overcome the rolling resistance (fairly linear) and aerodynamic drag (non-linear with speed) which increases as a function of a cube of the velocity. The Supra which has a drag coefficient of 0.31 and frontal area of 1.928 sq.m requires 75 RWHP (88 cranK) at 120 MPH to overcome the aerodynamic drag. Add maybe another 10 HP for rolling resistance. derek

BTW, these numbers are at the rear wheels using 3700 pound gross weight (car, petrol and driver). Crank would be about 700 HP derek

Simple formulas for ET and Speed HP calculation The formula is: hp = weight / (ET / 5.825)3 The formula is: hp = weight * (speed / 234)3 Using the ET method for 10.68 sec, I come up with 600 horsepower Using the Speed method for 127 mph, I come up with 592 horsepower

Most likely that your PAS reservoir filter is plugged with gunk. This happens frequently to most Supras (and Toyotas in general). There is a small screen at the bottom of the reservoir. When it gets clogged it causes the PS pump to starve for fluid and usually causes a lot of noise from the pump (cavitation) and juttering in the steering. To fix: Drain the fluid out of the reservoir, remove hoses and unbolt the three bolts holding the reservoir to the body. Plug the outlet (large pipe) and fill with engine flush up to the level of the inlet pipe (helps to take a small brush and work the top of the filter to disolve the gunk). Leave it sitting for a couple of hours then drain the engine flush out of the reservoir. Blow back through the outlet pipe with an air hose (or water hose) to clear any remaining debris. (Let it dry completely if you used water.) Reattach reservoir to body and connect hoses then refill with new dextron II. Bleed the air out of the system by jacking up the front so both wheels are off the ground and work the steering back and forth lock to lock with engine running. It will be noisy for the first 10-15 minutes and reservoir fluid will foam but it will clear up eventually. Fixed. Worked for me. derek

There is a screen at the bottom of the PS reservoir that clogs and then the pump suffers fluid starvation causing pump noise and steering chatter. derek

I am using stock springs. I have the fronts set to 2 and the rears at 1. The roads around here are pretty rough and this shock setting is close to stock firmness so a not bad compromise. derek

I am curious why everyone is saying IK24. I have been running IK22's for about three years at BPU (1.2-1.3 BAR) with no pre-ignition or detonation. After 10K miles on my IK22's the plugs are still in excellent shape with normal brown to grey electrode colour indicating proper heat range. The IK24 is a pretty cold plug at two steps below stock. In theory a colder plug will foul easier and will take longer for the engine to warm up while also running rough. I would be happy to accept that the IK24 is a better choice at BPU level if someone would justify with some reasons or photos showing IK22's that have insulator damage or other evidence of it being too hot a plug.

As Chris said they just provide an extra barrier from the exterior to interior. Drill a hole (~1/2") in the top of the covers and you can access the adjusters. I drilled the holes and put a plastic panel plug in mine so I can access if needed and still keep the seal.

The only resistance you can measure on the coil packs is the primary coil resistance. There is no test on the secondary. The spec on the primary is 0.54 ~0.84 Ohms as noted. If your digital VOM is displaying 1.2 Ohm it is likely because you have 0.4 Ohm coming from the leads and inputs to the meter (meter offset). To check this you simply put the meter on low range (or automatic) and touch the leads together. My meter reads typically 0.3 to 0.4 Ohm. You need to subtract the meter offset value from the reading to get the true primary coil resistance. Unfortunately this test does not tell you if the coil is good, only if it is definitely bad (typically open circuit).

Adjustment bolts (8 mm head) are as noted in previous answer. To adjust the aim correctly, shine the beam against a wall 25 feet away and adjust so the upper cutoff (flat portion) of the dipped beam drops 2.5" below the center height of the dipped lamp. For left-right aim adjust so that the point where the beam flares up to the left from each lamp is directly ahead; looks something like this: \___\___ . Best way to do this is put a vertical mark on the wall aligned with the center point of the car (eyeball aim using line on the rear window centre and just below the front screen mirror mount) then measure out left and right half the distance of the spacing between the dipped beam lamps. Mark these spots on the wall (marker or tape) and adjust till the height and dip point are correct.

ABS cable goes to underside of the car through a hole on the left side of the sub-woofer housing.

James, you can get a full set of rear bushings for ~$190 (£110) from a company called TMEnegineering in the US. I was quoted shipping of $90 (£50). URL is: http://www.tmengineering.net/suspension/r2racing/index.html You can order direct or Dusty at MVP also sells them. The bushings kit is high quality Polyurethane with graphite (lubricant to prevent squeaking) impregnated. Polyurethane is typically Harder and longer wearing than stock new rubber bushings which you can't buy anyway (must buy full control arm). Slightly stiffer ride and handling.

vsv= vacuum switching valve (solenoid) there are several on the TT first turbo is the front turbo this is the only one connected to the wastegate there is a VSV (boost solenoid) that activates when boost reaches stock maximum (~0.7 BAR) boost. It activates the actuator for the wastegate to bleed off exhaust. Afetrmarket boost controllers typically are placed in between the nipple on the #1 turbo and the actuator. The boost controoler monitors pressure by tapping into a hose at the pressure sensor on the intake manifold.

Finally someone who understands the thick and thin (excuse the pun) of multi-viscosity oils. Excellent technical data that dispels all the BS and popular misconceptions of the "..I heard somewhere" and "... I read somewhere" ancedotes. General recommendation for the Supra is: go with a quality synthetic oil with the lowest possible cold start viscosity and a moderate viscosity spread. Synthetic 5W-30 is a good choice. 0W-40 5W-40 and 15W-50 weight oils can have high concentration of viscsity modifiers (not 100% true with synthetics) and can be a little heavy at high temperature which can rob power. BTW, avoid hydro-cracked oils (Castrol Syntec) which are better than regular dino oil but not true synthetics. The low temp flowability, temperature stability and flash point specs are not even close to a true ester/PAO synthetic.

if its the pipe thats leaking, you should be able to repair it. If the hole is near an end then just cut the pipe and run some extra hydraulic hose. If it's in the middle then just pull it off and bring it to a welder to have the hole brazed. The pipe is low pressure so a repair should not be a problem. The labour is definitely over the top. This repair should not take more than about two hours (includes drain, refill and air purge). Even at £75/hr that's only £150. BTW £400 for a piece of pipe is larceny.

3/4 liter in 3000 miles of hard driving is not unusual. My 1994 TT has been using about 1/2 liter to a full liter over 3000 miles since I bought it new. Consumption is definitely higher when driven hard and valve stem seals increase consumption not just at startup but also while driving. BTW changing out valve stem seals on a BPU car only fixes the problem for about 20K-30K miles. AMHIK. I guess the higher exhaust temps at high boost cooks the seals pretty quick (as I recall the exhaust seals are the ones that get really toasted).

Engine power is directly related to air mass not pressure. Air pressure, temperature and volume are only important as they relate to air mass. The power generated by the explosion in the cylinder is determined by the mass of the fuel and air and efficiency of the burn. Assumming a proper fuel/air ratio somewhere close to stoichiometric (14.7:1) in both cases then power from a large single or twins will be equal if the mass is equal. For equal mass, pressures may be different if temperature is different. Conversely if temperature is different, mass will be different even if pressure is the same. This is the basic principles of Boyle's Law.

If battery is OK from symptoms it sounds like starter solenoid contacts. These typically go bad at about 100K miles on Toyotas. Contacts cost about £15 in parts and take about 2 hours to pull starter and replace. Go to this site to see problem and repair procedure: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=27312&highlight=starter+contacts

Either will work for 1.2 BAR. Dual supposedly has higher ultimate boost capability (up to 2.6 BAR) but biggest difference is supposed to be faster response with the dual. Doubt that at 1.2 BAR it would make any difference.

If you just changed it why would you do it again? If I recall correctly from when I changed out my timing belt, the idler pully is separate from the tensioner. It is a spring loaded device and the only thing that should wear out is the bearings. The tensioner pushes on the idler wheel assembly and should not generally need replacing.