normore1

Standard 12 point socket.

Check your oil level. Low engine oil will trigger the "Check engine" light especially when braking. Usually you should also see the oil level light come on intermittently but it may not be working.

Check to make sure your rad cap is OK. My car started losing coolant and overheating and I found the bottom part of the rad cap had broken (the part that maintains 1.1 BAR pressure in the rad) and fell into the top of the radiator. Coolant was evaporating and steam pushed out the overflow reservoir. Used about two liters over two days and only 40-50 miles. New cap (£15) put everything straight.

BTW, the pipes to check are the hoses/pipes (big 2.5") from the turbos to the intercooler across over and up into the intake manifold (not the IACV, or other small hoses). I'll bet one of them is blown off. Very common to blow them off at high boost and get the symptons you saw. Good luck. derek

I corrected myself in the second message where I stated that the O2 sensor reading low means lean condition. Here is what I believe happens: as the throttle opens up air is drawn into the engine but if the hose is blown off the engine sucks some of the air in after the MAF (or speed density sensor). Fuel is added based upon the MAF or SDS reading which is incorrectly low so the mixture is lean causing misfiring (some fuel does not even ignite) hence the chugging and rough running. Unused fuel from the numerous misfires may be blown out the exaust. Engine will rev with no load but will not run smoothly nor idle. I blew off the crossover pipe and this is exactly the symptoms I had including the smoke. If a set of piston rings are blown the engine will run just not very well until something seizes. IMHO there is no way you can get 170 psi+ compression with blown rings soo something else is wrong. derek

Mobil 1 5W-30, 10W-30 or 15W-50 are all OK for the Supra. Actually the lighter grades are better in the winter due to lower initial viscosity helping the oil to reach critical parts on startup. The 15W-50 is a little heavy for winter use and probably unnecesary for UK even in summer. At normal engine operating temperature a 5W-30 (or even 0W-30) weight oil will behave like a single grade 30 weight oil. Lighter weights are also better for the tight clearances of the turbo bearings. Mobil 1 synthetic is an excellent synthetic in any grade. derek

my apologies meant to say low O2 = lean. Air will be brought into the combustion chamber through leak in the pipes which will bypass the MAF (if UK spec ) so it will not add enough fuel to acheive good A/F ratio (stoichiometric). derek

Sorry to disagree but it doesn't sound like blown rings with those compression numbers nor from the other symptoms. More likely he blew off one of the hose/pipes between the turbos and the intake manifold. Probably at the X-over pipe. This would account for the rough running, lots of smoke and the low O2 sensor readings which indicates running rich (not lean). AMHIK If he blew a piston or the rings the compression would be way low. The oil in the air box is probably either due to another problem or too much oil used on a foam or cotton mesh after market filter. derek

Use a wire brush on a drill to clean up the rust on the support then paint with high heat silver engine paint. derek

Looks like you have the wrong type bulbs. HID kits come with two possible bulbs: D2R or D2S. The D2S is made for projection headlights (Supra) and the D2R is made for reflection headlights. Both will physically fit in the 9006 socket on the Supra. To identify which one you have is easy. The D2S has full clear glass bulb while the D2R has a reflector shield painted on the bulb. Solution is to sell the bulbs (Ebay!!!) and get D2S. It is possible to scrape off the painted shield with a razor blade and pollish with a dremmel tool but you have to be very careful not to damage the bulb or the side wire and insulator.

Although the driveshft is externally balanced I have heard some anecdotal evidence that if after a clutch change you do not realign the shaft spline to the same position as before the change you may get vibration in the drive shaft. The recommendation is to mark with match up points before disassembling. Also if the center support bearing is bad or reinstalled improperly then it may also cause vibration. derek

Although the driveshft is externally balanced I have heard some anecdotal evidence that if after a clutch change you do not realign the shaft spline to the same position as before the change you may get vibration in the drive shaft. The recommendation is to mark with match up points before disassembling. Also if the center support bearing is bad or reinstalled improperly then it may also cause vibration. derek

No guarantees here mate on anything especially advice Hey if they don't misfire and your stock plugs didn't misfire at 1.1 mm, why ask the question. Put them in and don't worry about it. It's just hard to believe that you ran stock platinums at 1.1 and didn't have any misfire at 18 psi but anything is possible. Just about everyone I know who ran the stock gap on high boost experienced misfire. I agree, gapping iridiums is not recommended. derek

1.1 mm is guaranteed to result in missfire at high rpms at that boost level. Standard Denso Iridiums (IK 22) are 0.8 mm (0.032") which works fine for your boost levels. 1.1mm is the stock gap for stock boost levels. derek

After an impact like that I would check rear wheel alignment (or expect tires to wear out soon) and also rear wheel bearing. Rubbing sound is possibly due to damaged wheel bearing. derek

If the sound and clicking feeling is coming from the clutch pedal area even when engine is off it is likely to be due to friction where the clutch actuator rod (rod attached to clutch pedal going through the fire wall) engages the master cylinder. For some reason debris (metal or other) builds up behind the rod so that it make a raspy and clicking sound when the clutch is depressed. Either you have to pull the master cylinder to clean and lubricate or poke a hole in the boot around the actuator rod and spray some WD-40 (need spray extension pipe) in there to flush away the crap. Helps to disconnect the rod from the clutch pedal and work around. Mine had the same problem which was driving me nuts. I did the WD_40 thing after pulling out the whole clutch pedal assembly. derek

http://www.leatherique.com phenominal stuff!!! derek

A 1/2" drive ratchet with about 3-4 feet of extensions does the trick on the bolts. That plus lots of %/@!#*! Toyota doesn't make anything easy. Usually 4 bolts or fasteners where 2 would do and always up or behind something that impedes easily gettin a wrench on them. AMHIK derek

First I would ask why you would want to remove the quarter glass? This is not a simple pop out/pop back in job. You have to remove the inside plastic panels to get at three mounting bolts, then remove the nuts. Next you have to cut the butyl mounting bead. Push a length of strong fishing line or similar material through and work around to seperate the butyl sealant bead. I would guess a new glass would be somewhere about £100. About $100 US when I bout one a few years back. derek

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Chris, doesn't fit my experience since my LH bearing went out about two years ago. I have a US model and the bearing failed when I was in the USA. Using your logic my RH bearing should have failed first since it is closest to the curb when driving on right side of the road!!!! My RH bearing is still good 15K miles later At least for now!! It is a bitch to change out the bearing especially if you have to get the bearing race off the hub. However in my experience usually the hub is knackered and you just throw it away. derek

If the wheel bearing has been bad for a while it is very likely you will need a new hub as well. Go to the MKIV.com site for a full description of what is needed and step by step process. I did mine a couple of years ago and the hub was buggered. Reused all parts except the bearing, innner and outer seals and the hub. Didn't damage the deflector so didn't need a new one.

The front one has two post pins that hold it on the front cover. The best thing to do is pull back the cover and cut them from behind. You should be able to just undo the small bracket under the bonnet which is held in place by five plastic push pin clasps under the rubber seal. This will release the top part of the bumper cover enough for you to clip the emblem pins or pry off the little friction fittings that hold it in place.

Could be the wheel bearing. Depends on the amount of play. Also could be bent wheel rim. Both are common problems on the Supra. Wheel bearings tend to be suspect for failing around 100k miles. derek