normore1

Air is being sucked into the pump on the intake side. Most likely the 'o'ring on the intake pipe. Replace it and rebleed. The other possibility is that the reservoir screen is plugged causing the pump to cavitate. Remove the reservoir, soak with Gunk engine cleaner to loosen the crap and then reverse flush.

Wear on the inside edges is more typically due to incorrect toe. It takes quite a lot of camber to cause rapid wear. Excessive camber will cause uneven wear but at an almost normal rate if toe is correct. Tire wear is very sensitve to toe adjustment. On the front tires inside wear is due to too much negative toe (toe out). This is due to tire scrubbing as they are pushed forward down the road. On the rears, contrary to popular belief, inside tire wear on the Supra (and all rear wheel drive vehicles) is generally due to too much positive toe (toe in). This is because the road resistance is opposite to the wheel thrust so with excessive toe in the insides of the tires are scrubbed. For front wheel drive vehicles the opposite is true. Most front wheel drive vehicles have the fronts slightly toed out to compensate for the thrust effect while rears are slightly toed in if adjustable.

Whoops, forgot disks. Stock are as good as anything. Don't look as good as driulled or slotted but won't crack and stop excellent.

Hawk HPS, good bite, less fade than stock and low dust. Not too bad when cold like some more aggressive compounds.

Drivers side 'A' panel. £10 shipped? I am assuming no scratches or holes.

As a few of the other guys already said oil takes some time to fully drain down into the pan. On level ground with the engine up to operating temperature wait five minutes and the oil should be between the min and max marks. If you leave it to sit all night and check it cold without starting it should be at or near the max mark. Typically mine reads about 2/3 up to the max mark after 5 minutes and will go to max after about 10-15 minutes. Check it immediately upon shutdown and it is just 1/3 above the minimum line.

Check the 'O'ring on the fluid intake pipe located on the fluid supply side of the pump. The 'O' ring hardens and if the pipe is moved at all it will start to suck air. To get to the 'O' ring remove the bolt holding down the intake pipe on the pump. Also check the supply side hose (large) from the reservoir to the pump.

Will it go into 6th with the engine off? If not then you have an obstruction, either something in the shifter (boot, dust seal, etc.) or someone put the shifter back together wrong after clutch change. If it will go into 6th sitting in the driveway with the engine off this tells you that the shift mechanism is Ok and you likely have syncro issues. A full change to V160 oil might help, but I doubt it. Rebuild time or do without sixth.

Did a compression and leak down test over the weekend and got what to me looks like conflicting results. Here are the numbers: Compression Leak Down #1 160 19% #2 151 26% #3 157 22% #4 158 22% #5 153 24% #6 160 21% The compression numbers look good to me for 112K miles with all cylinders within a few psi of the new spec. However the leakdown percentages look a bit high. I was expecting them to be in the range of ~10%. My understanding is: generally good compression should also result in good leakdown, whereby low compression will generally result in high leakdown and the test will tell you where the leakage is coming from (rings, exhaust/intake valves, head gasket). I checked the compression gauge against another gauge and it is accurate, so compression is OK. The leak down tester is new. (I was surprised to see that the leakdown gauge face had 0-40% leak shaded as green/good, 40-70% leak yellow/moderate and 70-100% red/high). The only reason I can think of for the high leakage percentage is that I did the leakdown after the compression test and the engine was quite cool by then possibly meaning the rings and/or valves were not quite sealing like at full operating temperature. Would leakage of a "just warm" engine be substantially higher than full operating temperature? Comments on the numbers in general? BTW: I have owned the car since new, never raced and nothing but full synthetic Mobil 1 since the first oil change at 1000 miles. EGR block off plates since about 80K miles. Car runs good but the leakdown numbers puzzle me!!!

Any API - GL5 for LSD oil will work. I prefer Mobil1 syntyhetic gear oil which is GL5 for LSD. If you don't have a LSD (which is unlikely) it won't hurt. I believe Valvoline, Castrol, Silkolene etc. all make GL5 Synthetic for LSD. It will describe the application on the bottle.

Pressure is not additive. In parallel mode each turbo sees the full 1.2 BAR. This means that the blades on the output side are pushing against ~17.6 psi of pressure this translates into a fair amount of force on the blades and quite a high level of resistive torque on the turbine shaft. There is a danger of twisting the shaft of the turbine at higher boost levels at least with the UK/US turbo. I never heard of the issue with the ceramic blades shattering but I am less familiar with J-Spec. Reports indicate that above 1.2 BAr the turbines become quite inefficient (creating more heat than pressure) anyway.

yep!!! Forgot that part, but thought it might be obvious.

Either use the tool described above or place a breaker bar on the nut and brace it against the chassis then engage the starter a couple of times (make sure you have a fully charged battery). You may need a cheater pipe on the breaker bar to ensure it braces against the chassis and won't hit any essential component (watch out for the A/C pipes). If this does not free the nut then you will need the tool. You will also need the cheater pipe and lots of muscle.

Have you installed a bleeder 'T' on the wastegate control VSV or a boost controller (MBC or electronic)? Otherwise the ECU will activate the wastegate to not allow above about 0.8 BAR boost.

Go to this site. I has a very detailed instruction fro proper headlight aiming. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html They cover both E-code (Europe) and DOT (USA) standards with both. UK glass headlights are same as E-code but flare up to the left. J-spec (plastic lenses) are the same as DOT but with the step up to the left.

Oil is as noted due to crakcase pressure. Replace the PCV valve. Plug is either due to mishandling during fitting or something in the cylinder impacted it (not good). As suggested do a compression check.

First disconnect the battery (otherwise you will trip the airbag malfunction light). Remove five screws holding the top panel in place. Unplug connections and remove. Unscrew screw holding right side panel. Remove panel around gear shift (held in place with clips only but be careful to pull only straight up). I find starting from the ashtray going forward works best. All of the other panels are held in place by clips only. First remove center gauge panel, then right side and left side. Replace in reverse order.

EBC pads suck for Supras. Green stuff is worthless cold or hot and Red Stuff is almost as bad. US brakes are the same as stock UK. J-spec are different. The best performing reasonably priced pads for street use with the UK/US model are Hawk HPS. Brembo sub-contracts out to Hawk for their pads.

No oil puddles, no blue smoke on start up, smoke on acceleration and general driving!!! Sounds like oil consumption due to worn or broken rings. Check the compression which should indicate low if you have worn rings (generally oil and compression rings wear at the same rate). Very bad valve stem seals might cause this kind this kind of oil burning but it would also show a big puff of blue smoke on startup. Valve stem seal wear is mostly associated with the TT on the exhaust side due to the high heat. Should be less of an issue with the N/A.

I doubt your excess tyre wear is due to too much camber. -1.5 degrees is only slightly outside the stock alignment spec of : -0.5 degrees +/- 0.75. Inside wear on the front tires is usually due to excessive toe out (like this: \ /). If you are sure the toe setting is OK the following may be the problem: Toe can be correct when static but dynamically change (while driving) to more out if the lower suspension bushings are worn due to rolling resistance pushing the tires back and into a more toed out orientation. Only solution is to replace the bushings or new lower arms.

The full rear bushing set (polyurethane) mfg. by R2 Racing available from MVP Motorsports (see vendors section) in the USA for $189 (£102) plus shipping, VAT etc. Toyota does not supply the bushings seperate. You must buy the full arms. The R2 Racing set is well made and fixes the loose rear end problem of aging Supras. They also make a set for the front at same price. I did not replace my uppers which were still tight. Uppers also have the biggest impact on ride quality and noise which can be an issue with polyurethane bushes.

John, the RPS pressure plate is a reworked Toyota unit. It is the same pressure plate that Toyota sells as the TRD Single Disk clutch which uses the standard Toyota organic disk. If the RPS pressure plate is combined with the "Street Disk" it is exactly the same as the TRD unit. Holds about 500HP and 500 Torque. RPS keeps the pressure plate and changes the disks (Stage 2 & 3) to get even more torque capacity.

The problem is that your offset is too small. Running 19's is not the problem with the interference it's the offset. Another issue is that your tire aspect ration should have been dropped to 30 to compensate for the extra inch of rim diameter. 275-30 x 19 (not 275-35) is the correct tire for proper height and circumference on the Supra. The extra tire height will cause slower acceleration (higher gearing) and about and 4% speed error. The higher sidewall could also be contributing to the interference.

I have the same "clunk" at low speeds from the rear right. All of the following replaced new: shocks, spring seats and boots, lower control arm bushings, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, brake rotors and pads. Only thing not changed to new on that side is wheel bearings, ball joints and upper control arm bushings. The upper control arm was removed and the bushings feel solid and there is no rough movement. On the car the control arm had zero lateral play. Also no play at all in the wheel bearings. Ball joints checked OK at MOT. I'm stumped:( Hope you guys figure it out.

None unless the purpose is bling:) If bling then get any of the ones with the five clamp bolt system. There are reports of the three bolt type (HKS, Unorthodox) slipping off adjustment. I have a set from Titan Motorsports (5 bolt). Both are hidden behind the pully cover and set at 0 deg. Waste of money:rolleyes: