Lee P

Just to add mine is a bit different as I'm running high compression. 272s will make good power but you must also have head work and uprated valve train to make the most of them.

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EDIT...........................EDIT Holy thread reserection, please shoot me now.

The one that goes in the end of the crank? 90363-12002

The compression test wasn't 130 all the way along. I cant remember exactly as it was a while ago but 3 cylinders were low, one worse than the others. I think 2 were around 130 and another around 100 and the others were all over 160.

Have a look under the dash on the passenger side, there is a small rod that usually pops out of position. Its located near the trans tunnel side, if you look up you should see it, turn the control from hot to cold and the rod should move and you will see it. If the rod doesnt move then it may be the dial itself, are the lights moving to indicate the dial is working?

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The engine was in an original series 2 RS turbo but some idiot smashed into me so I reshelled it into a H plate cabriolet. The engine is a power engineering system 2 with pretty much everything else you can do to it without going zetec. Made 245hp and 250ftlbs at 18psi on the last dyno run. Goes well, used to show up all my mates cossies, they needed over 350hp just to stay with me. Been off the road for a few years though.

The TDI dyno was around £250,000 from what Sam was telling me, as Jamie says you won't get the same quality of mapping on a dyno dynamics.

Nice to see another twin build.

I have to say my RS Turbo would give a stock tt a hard time. I may have to dust it off and bring it out to play.

Let me check tomorrow and I will let you know, will be able to sort something for you.

Yes it fits the same as stock and retains the top air feed also.

The BC pro rods are £550 + vat, they are very good and to this date have not had an issue with them. I would still consider the carrillo rods an upgrade, the Carr bolts are the best you can get. As Jamie says though the they are expensive but in the ultimate setup the cosworth pistons and carrillo rods are a great combo.

Will put the order in now

Yep, got the day off work so won't be a problem. I'm working on some over flow parking so we can fit more cars in if needed so don't worry about numbers.

Those rads will not fit very well they are too big, I have just removed one from a customers car as the only way they got it in was with one top mount, no bottom rubber mounts and no fan shroud. It was the only way they could shut the bonnet.

You will need an intercooler for your turbo conversion but there is no need or benifit to have one on an NA. You would have to modify the pipe work as well as this is designed for a TT and the intake manifold position is different to the NA-T

Changed the injectors in Ricky's yesterday and had it running almost 2 hours and the afr's didn't change. Turned it off a couple of times so it could heat soak a bit. This caused the afrs to drop a tiny bit after start up but then they returned to normal once the cooler fuel got into the rail. While the car was hot I put the old injectors back in and swapped the map back over. It started and idled at 14 as it should for about 10-15mins then started to drop. By 30mins it was off the scale lean. This seems to indicate that the injectors are at fault so will change them and get Ryan to map it properly and see where we are.

Dont worry James we will get it sorted

Ricky is basically running a similar fuel system as me except for the injectors, rail and fpr. Mine has been perfect as well, no problems with the twin pumps lines ect. I think the injectors could be the issue but will have to see. Will post the finding once I have had a play.

I think the difference in duty cycle was about 20% on wot Ryan has mapped it from cold and with the problem there was a big difference.

Fuel presure is unaffected but will check the voltage to the pumps. The pumps have been replaced with new ones and same problem.