Lee P

Can't do the silver ones, only the v pro gold can be mapped over here.

Is that turbo laying on the concrete on its exhaust wheel...

You only need to fit the injector adaptor on the older units, the later ones had it built in. You check it by the serial number on their website

Be careful what you put on them mate, have a word with Christian and see what he says.

Yes they are a custom set with with aggressive offset.

Pm'd

I keep the genuine Bosch 044 pumps instock and do a fitting kit for it if you still need one

Sorry missed this, would be £90 for both delivered to Ireland

Pm'd

No they are not greddy ones, they are almost identical though and I use them in all the big builds including mine and jamie's car.

No probs, glad your getting a chance to enjoy it

I carry magnetic sump plugs in stock they are £10.00 delivered

I would advise against this as it probably wont work anyway. You need a decent locking tool and a 3/4" bar and socket, then its not a problem.

I think around 7-8% is about the right conversion for a hub dyno. Your dyno pack graph is flywheel hp and that works out right to the TDI hub figure.

It's 400.3 at the hubs at TDI according to the graph I assume the 435 on the dyno pack was a calculated flywheel figure? Do you have the graph for that.

You have to put the engine on an engine dyno to get the true flywheel figure but then even the environment can effect that. The engine room it's self plus the intercooler, exhaust system used. The reason we were using the 15% to start with was to try and compare to SRR flywheel figures as that is roughly the calculation it uses and it was a general rule of thumb. The problem is its just a guessing game and you may as well pick a figure out the air. Different gearboxes, oils, diffs, flywheels ect ect will all give different losses. The only constant is the wheel or hub figure, the energy created at the end. The only figure the dynos are actually reading is wheel and hub anything else is made up. If we just stick to using these we will have a much better idea of what we actually have. Also we cannot directly compare rolling road wheel figures to hub figures as the dynos load the cars differently and as already said the rotational mass of the wheel and tyre itself. Also dyno dynamics run the car in 4th gear while hub dynos can run the car in the correct gear which is 5th. But as I said before stop worrying about and drive it

There are a few people running this, it's best in TTC mode. I'm my opinion one of the most fun supras I've ever driven was a stock TT6 in TTC mode on a syvecs. I love the way they drive, have a chat with Alex M as I've just done his one.

I'm gona try and not get too involved in this but will make a few points. First off a hub figure is not a wheel figure anyway so cannot be directly compared to one. It is the power figure measured at the hub not including rotational mass of the wheel and tyre. This means it will be a higher figure than a wheel figure on a rolling road. The TDI hub dyno is one of the only dynos that can be calibrated to make sure it's accurate, most others can't. Any dyno including the TDI hub dyno can give altered correction factors that can be controlled, it's upto the dyno operator to do his job properly and be fair. They can all be manipulated by the air temp correction, the TDI dyno only gives hub figures and will not calculate (guess) flywheel but it does correct for air temp as does the dyno dynamics. The SRR dyno dynamics is considered a very accurate dyno as the figures are very reserved and it's a great bench mark for us to compare. The problem with it and big power cars is they will not get traction. The way the Dyno dynamics works is the car should be strapped in a way that it moves up out of the rollers slighty and on to the front ones. The problem is big power supras come on boost so hard and the rollers are so worn that there is just no grip. The only way around this is to strap the car down so tight that it can't move, this helps traction but not only kills the tyres in about 2 seconds but saps alot the of power from the run. This is the reason we see such different readings from the 2 dynos with these cars. Sam from TDI explains it the best way "a rolling road is like trying to measure a piston with a rubber caliper gauge, you will get a different measurement everytime depending on how hard you squeeze it together" it all depends on how it's strapped down, tyre compounds, temperatures and a lot of other factors. So if we can strap a car down on a rolling road the same way everytime we should get some decent consistent readings but it will still never be as accurate as a hub dyno. The is the reason the race teams, the likes of shell and other big companies use hub dynos for testing. You can run it all day long and get very accurate readings. I think one of the big problems here is we all got a little carried away with adding percentages on, a hub figure is exactly what it is and we should take it as that. Some of the hub dynos do read over but like I said its the responsibility of the operator and I could make one give out a high figure just by manipulating the intake temps. The only way to directly compare is to use the same dyno everytime. We need to stop guessing the flywheel figures and just use wheel and hub figures, also we need a whip round so we can donate to SRR to buy some new rollers lol... More importantly a dyno is a tuning tool and not an indication of how fast a car is. Get out there and enjoy them, how they drive is much more important than how much power they have.

It's for the alarm, it's used for programming.

Just to add, these kit are now available with a 4" core. I will add pics and prices very soon

Thanks for the input guys, appriciate it. As said the kit does fit very well and comes with fitting instructions as well. Not sure who the other trader is but in their defence sometimes the brackets that are welded to the core get bent in transit and cause fitment issues. I hope you get it sorted but if you need anything drop me a pm.

Hi I'm away at the moment so Internet isn't great. If you could PM me with the details of the issue and I can have a think and we can talk when I'm back at the end if the week.

They don't actually do one for the supra but as long as the thread and diameter is the same you can use it. Personally I would use a genuine stock Toyota one.

Yes, got mine. Thanks

Probably shorted or spiked the alarm. Try disconnecting the battery for 20 secs or so to reset the alarm. If that doesn't work it may have blown a fuse for the alarm or damaged it.