Lee P

SRD stage 3 280 cams in place Manifold on, love the look of this with the Zircotec coating

Thanks We built the engine, had my machine guy do the main machining work.

Thanks for the nice comments guys, appreciate it. SRD stage 5 head Head installed with L19 head stud kit

Yep that's it SRD fans You don't have to run an uprated alternator but it does help. Got some uprated alternators on the way so not too long now

I have installed my fan kit on an R34 drift car running a 2JZ. Had to use 12" fans rather than the 14" for the supra as the rad was smaller but works great. Only fans I have found that work well enough to cool the car properly. Also they move alot of air so don't have to run very long.

Internals assemble and oil pump fitted Sump and strainer fitted One short block assembled All threads retapped

Getting to the exciting stuff now SRD 3.4L Stroker kit ready to be cleaned and assembled. Block prepped, cleaned and painted. Ready to receive the internals Sump before refurb Sump after refurb

Will be available very soon, first one will be done next week so will get final pics up. Will be offereing this in the crackle black finish as standard

Hopefuly not too much longer, we are building the final version for Jay's car so will work out final costings ect

Yeah its easily done and as I have been trying to express in this thread is the most common issue, its very easy to damage the seal or pop the spring off the back tying to fit it with out a decent tool.

Im not saying that at all, you are exactly right with saying that the front seal can leak because of the pump. That is spot on. But dont tell me that everytime it leaks its the pump as that is simply not true, a worn or incorrectly fitted seal is the most common issue. If that doesnt fix it and it still leaks then yes you change the pump.

Exactly just double check its flush and straight. If you can post or send me a picture so I can double check. If it is still leaking and its fitted spot on then yes you need to look at the oil pump.

Quite simple really. We made a tool that drives the seal in evenly but the outside diameter is larger than the oil pump so it can't push the seal in too far. The pump casing has a chamfered edge so when the seal is in flush it can look like its not in far enough but it is. Even the slightest bit in too far blocks the relief hole and causes it to leak.

So your saying anyone who has an original Toyota seal from factory that's leaking is down to the pump being worn??? Not just an old seal that needs replacing. We will just have to agree to disagree but I'm not saying to avoid the problem completely. The first thing to do is fit the seal correctly them move on to other things. If you fit a new seal and the pump is a problem it will leak again straight away. I don't care how much you have read ect I'm going from years of experience actually working on supras everyday and for your info most of the problems in the US were again down to them not fitting the seals correctly. There are loads of threads on it. All these modified oil pumps and tighter seals are just to cover up the fact they can't fit the dam seals properly. Rant over lol...

Ok maybe you see more supras than me!! I completely agree with the other faults that can cause the seal to leak. What I am saying is after working on these cars for over 8 years 99% of the time the leaks have been down to incorrectly fitted seals. I have had cars come in that have been worked on at other garages had a new seal and been leaking. I fit a new seal and its fine, no leaks. I have had 5 of these in the last year done by a well know tuners, 2 within the last 2 months I see ALOT of cars and im going by my time on them over the years. If you look back at your thread you are talking about you will see me involved agreeing with you as I sufferd the same problem as you first hand on my own car. Please dont tell me you know different when I work on these cars eveyday This is why I dont get involved to much in these kind of threads. Basically my best advise would be DOUBLE check your seal fitting first, I made a tool to fit the seal correctly, if its in 1mm to far or not sraight it WILL cause an leak. It is possible its a worn pump but trust me not very often

You sure the seal is fitted correctly? 99% of front seal leaks are incorrectly fitted seal

No problem at all Greg, really nice car too work on and love the look.

Exactly

That is partly true but unfortunatly you cant buy the copper stock rads from toyota anymore and when you could they were very expensive. The aftermarket alloy rads are larger, hold more water and the cooling is excellent, also more durable than the stock rad. I know which one I would rather have on my own car.

The HKS kits come with a pipe that getting around the lower water pipe. The alternatives are to either use one of my billet lower water necks, try an NA one or you can cut the TT one down.

No probs Dean was a pleasure Glad your happy with it

Yes Little man has arrived. New mechanic for the SRD workshop lol

Yep, will post up soon as I get a chance Its a really nice power band and great spool

As Ryan has already said Dan Turner for the AEM, he mapped my car many years ago on the AEM and was always very good. I have used his dyno as well and he has a very good setup there. - - - Updated - - - 700hp will be fine on the stock block but it is getting close to the safe limit of the rod bolts.

No only early ones, facelift cars have a small diff