Lee P

When you put the ignition on the first time after the alarm has gone off the led will flash a number of times to tell you what set it off. Does the imoboliser arm separately to the alarm ie: if you leave it unlocked for a while and go to start it do you need to press a button first? If you don't this rules out any kind of cat 1 alarm which means for now take the panel out under the drivers side and pull the fuses for the alarm out. They will be obviouse and possibly in black covered fuse holders depending on the age of alarm

That is true, if its a facelift car you will need to modify the shroud slightly as its different and the rad is designed for the pre facelift

Yes you can still use the fan and shroud no problem

No probs at all, thank you

I would use Focal if you don't mind spending the money, if not Alpine. The Focal 2 ways are £110 instock The Focals are very efficient so work we without an amp and the quality is awesome

As Wez says feed both pumps in to one -10 line running down the car Use a -10 filter and y peice it out of the filter to either side of the rail If you don't want to do this and you want to run two lines and two filters (not advised) you will need a one way valve in the end of the fuel rail.

Sorry, I wont be offering a polished one

Yes they will

Thanks guys, we really appreciate the comments. Been alot of hard work but its getting there now.

Most of the engine work is now done. We are making a full engine wiring loom from scratch now so lots of wiring to do

All depends on how much equipment you are running really. If you have alot of stuff turned on at the same time then it can add up to a lot. You can roughly work it out by adding up the amperage of the equipment that you are likely to have on together. Audio Fans Lights Fuel pumps Heaters ect

With all the extra electronics we are putting in the cars (audio, fans, twin pumps ect) its a good idea to uprate the alternator to cope Also with the original units now 15+ years old they are getting old and tired We now offer an uprated unit, these are brand new uprated alternators made for us by Mechman in the USA. Spec is: 170 amp High Output S series alternator twin rectifier plates 12 huge heavy duty diodes hairpin stator construction for un-matched low RPM output and durability. Installation is a direct bolt in, the stock belt can be used, and the unit accepts the factory Toyota alternator harness. In high current draw applications we recommend upgraded cabling. 170 amp £320 (£390 polished) Prices are plus £15 delivery to mainland UK

Big end bearing noise can go when you rev it but will be more noticeable on the run down Sounds a bit deep to be top end noise, hard to tell from the video though

Yes it's in too far

If its in too far it will leak

Well done John, looking good so far

New OEM one will be more than mine You may find a used OEM one pretty cheap but most are in bad condition now

Just tap them with a soft hammer and they will come free

We build them on the car so its not quite as easy as that unfortunatly.

Haha... Will do soon

We made the pipe work up

Return line is -6

Difficaut to say really, I just sold a brand new set of ID2000 for £750. (usually £1000ish new) I think Hodge just sold some used ones but not sure how much he got for them.

Yes they will fit the rail fine and if you still have stock wiring the adaptors will plug straight in. 1000cc will be more than enough for you. Keep them in stock

Its a stock size pulley, original alternator modified so fitment is direct. Can be supplied with a smaller pulley for a boost in amperage but then you need a different size belt