Nathan

Hi Steve, Not sure what you mean by 'JapPLUS' pump? We only use one type of pump, the Walbro GS341/342 series, and we find it's good enough for around 500bhp even though Walbro won't rate it as higher than 400bhp. I honestly don't find them noisy at all, but then we do use the foam sleeve around the body of the pump which does quieten them down quite a bit. Plus we use a relay so that the pump isn't running with the engine off so again it's harder to notice. I've not had any customers raising any concerns so thats a good pointer I guess. Our kit is £160 excluding VAT and comes supplied specifically for the MK4. It has the relay, fuel filter, foam sleeve, full fitting instructions (with pictures), all wiring, bullet connectors and cable ties. Best regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Someone was looking down on you! I wouldn't want to run 5 minutes at 1.4. I can only presume that you didn't do any high speed/high load pulls. Even so, I wouldn't like to have seen your EGT thats for sure... Nearly always. Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

18psi is about 1.2 bar. Other than that, pretty much all you say is correct Steve. The stock ECU will not be supplying any more fuel at 1.4 bar than it does at 1.2 so all you will succeed in doing is generating huge amounts of heat at best and taking a piston out at worst. Ash, you will deffo have an FCD fitted. Depending on the manufacturer, you can adjust the fuel cut to wherever you want it. Both Petes and our HKS ones allow this. FCD's are nearly always mounted on or around the ECU which is under the plastic cover where the passengers feet go. IMO you are playing Russian roulette running 1.4 bar on your spec. Bring the boost down, and preferably the FCD cut point too (if your particular FCD allows this) to make sure that if you get greedy and turn it back up again at least you'll hit the cut. If your FCD doesn't allow you to adjust the fuel cut point and can only remove it altogether then book your car in with someone and get the thing ripped off and thrown in the bin. The fuel cut is your only safeguard against a blown engine in an overboost scenario. Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Hi Chris, I've heard several reports about the Supra feeling a bit 'wayward' at high speed without the front spoiler lip but I've never tried it personally. I guess that TOTB would be a good, safe ® place to try but even with an open area if she gets out of shape at 170mph+ you're going to dilate a bit chap. Good luck for tomorrow though. We've all got our digits crossed for you. No doubt there will be a lot quicker cars out there but hey at least you haven't had to do an engine rebuild for 5 odd years... Best of luck Nathan TDI PLC

I guess it's down to personal opinion as to whether a 'bad boy' is a wheel no wider than what you have already but anyway.... I'm not convinced that a rear with only a 37mm offset will not hit the arches with a tyre of 275 width. I could be wrong though. Not quite sure you can change 112.17 to 114.3 either. Seems like an awful lot of aggro and cost for nothing else other than asthetics. It may well make the car handle worse. In fact I'd put money on it. For gods sake don't let CW see this thread..... Regards, Nathan. TDI PLC

Yep, just what I said in my 1st post..... Like you say, see what the boost is doing on No1. Until then, we're not really going to get anywhere. Cheers Nathan.

Never heard of that one, and if they did I very much doubt that they would even make the drawing board if they gave results like Mark has. Every pre-spool problem I have seen has been down to the plumbing of the boost controller, not the FCD used. I believe Leons 'race' pump is a Walbro GS342, the same as we use. That should be fine for your use. Still, the power and torque curves you have are deffo not right. I would be looking at rigging the 1st turbo to run max boost and see what it makes. It's possible that it's low on boost or even failed completely. 200bhp max before the 2nd comes in would indicate such... Thats why I asked what boost you are making on No1. If you're still seeing 1 bar then the turbo would seem to be OK and I would be looking elseware. There has to be a reason for why the car is so low on power up to 5.5K. Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Hi Mark, I'm convinced that theres a problem somewhere. Not only due to the torque loss but more importantly the length of time it's there for. A dramatic drop from 3K to 5.5K is not right. Are you happy with the boost controller fitment and setup? What is the boost doing in this rpm range? The graphs show what could also be a very lazy No1 turbo. The lightswitch power delivery, doubling in the space of 500rpm must be interesting in the wet. Ever considered a big twin.... Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Hi, We are main agents for Tein and whilst I agree with CW that repairing them isn't a cost-effective solution I disagree that the product is poor in any way. I personally feel that any problems with them are down to circumstance rather than a fault. In a similar way that a very high propotion of our imports have had a smack in some way. Once things start wearing out or breaking the Japs just flog them to us. They do not appear to be interested in repairing cars, presumably because of their strict MOT laws. Do a search and you will find both mine and CW's recent opinions on Tein on another thread. Please PM if you wish to discuss pricing, but a new set of Teins, even the lowest spec, will be considerably more expensive than stock items, which are bl**dy cheap IMO considering the potential of the car as a whole. Best regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Agreed. But I thought that only something that actually had heat contained within it could lose it faster via windchill. Perspiration is indeed exactly what I meant My point was that say a fan blowing air on you in the summer will feel colder because it is evaporating your sweat faster. Thus, you can feel windchill on say your face because the airspeed is helping to remove your heat faster. A similar thing happens even if you're not visually sweating. Something made out of plastic, metal or anything inanimate doesn't have any any heat to lose so it will always be what the ambient is. Airspeed doesn't have much effect (unless you start going REALLY fast...and heating things up) I guess what I'm trying to say is that the surface temperature of a plastic ball held out of a car window whilst stationary will have the same surface temperature at 100, 200 or even 400mph. What do you think?! Sorry for the thread divert! Cheers Nathan TDI PLC

Peter, Yes, I think it is, although I can't actually see it in the pic. It should look like a little black plastic probe...? As long as it's location never sees direct sunlight I think that will be the one. Cheers Nathan TDI PLC

Oooh...thats interesting. I thought inanimate objects didn't suffer from wind-chill. I thought wind-chill was the effect of quicker evaporation of water from the skin. I could be totally wrong though! Either way, yes, the temp sensor is clipped to the metal bash bar behind the front bumper. I think Matt is right about being just able to see if by getting on your knees. You might need to take the bumper off to get it back in though! Cheers Nathan. TDI PLC

LOL. You know that Chris. That said, I honestly don't think there are as many tuning companies out there that deliberately try to dupe people as people think. I simply believe it's more a case of they just don't know what they are doing. Theres also a lot of places out there that claim to be bigger/better than they really are. Some of the claims I have seen are outrageous but then the punters WANT to believe what they are told.. Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Ah. Yes. Well done I'm glad you understand. A lot of people don't. Have you ever considered a job in the tuning industry...? In fact, I'm worried that you may already be over-qualified...

Come come Adam, you should know as well as any other that that question is very much relative to inlet temps... As a guide though, if your EGT's start going crazy whilst you're not making much more power from increasing boost then you're just about at the limit. Adding retard adds EGT....it's a vicious circle.. Regards, Nathan TDI PLC