weinelm

Not sure about rears, but: I replaced my front shocks with standard toyota items. They're not as expensive as you'd think. Fronts are £56 +VAT from Toyota. (Although I found some new ones on ebay for a bargain!). I fitted them myself, it wasn't difficult, just took a while (1 day and half, but then I was learning!). You also need a coil spring compressor to take the struts apart (about £16). I was surprised how much better the car drove when I had done it. Smoother and firmer ride. Plus all the rattles, bangs and wobbly steering had gone to. I imagine it is a similar thing for the rears. Although if you've got some cash you might want to think about a supension upgrade.

I'm still weighing up my options Anyone know how difficult it is to swap these parts?

No problem getting the back out at all.... it's getting it back in thats the tricky part.

Thanks for that very interesting. But I'm beginning to get the feeling I'm on my own! Has anyone installed RLTC on a non ABS Supra... or has everyone else too much sense! ....I feel a challenge coming on.

Been doing a bit more digging. 1) Wheelspeed sensors £250 2) Bits from a scrappy:- 2x Front hub and carrier = £120 2x Rear hubs and carrier = £100 2x Rear drive shafts = £100 None of this includes fitting. But I generally try and do stuff myself. So option one probably is cheaper, I'm just not sure there is anywhere practical to mount the sensors (but haven't looked closely). Option 2, is not a whole lot of dosh more, and would be a neater solution - but there is the potential for putting dodgy bearings on the car ! How difficult is it to swap these bits? What are the knuckle joints like to get off and on? (I confess to knowing very little about this, some parts may not be reusable ) Pretty much decided I'm not going to sell the car, so probably will have to speak a racelogic installer soon!

I used some "Greygate Plastic Polish", which somebody gave me. It's meant to be the biz, for moulded or thermoformed plastics, cost about £8 for 100ml and even has a NATO stock number 7930-99-224-2028. ....Results don't seem that different from the T-Cut though (and I had to wet&dry the lenses first)!

I thought option 1 one might be the easiest, but I got a quote from a scappy for £60 for each front hub. I don't know what rears with drive shafts would cost though. Plus I think (hope) my bearings are ok at the mo, I don't really want to mess!

Yup me too. Good fun, but not on a Monday morning on the way to work.... :upside:

I've been thinking for a while about installing a RLTC system, the only problem is I've got a NA without ABS.... (didn't think of that when I bought it...) I'm sure it's possible to install the system, but is it really sensible? I reckon I've got a few options:- 1) You can get wheelspeed sensors from Racelogic, but then you have to find somewhere to mount them, plus I need to have some kind of brackets made up. http://www.racelogic.co.uk/traction/wss.htm 2) I could fit my car with the toyota ABS sensors, but it turns out it's not that straight forward! I always thought that ABS would be a sort of "plug in" option at the factory. But... the hubs and carriers are different on non ABS cars (why did they do that!), so I think you need:- - ABS Front hubs/carriers - Rear hubs/carriers - Rear drive shafts, as these have the tooth wheels on. - ABS sensors and moutings And all that doesn't even give you a working ABS system, for that you'd still need: ABS pump, ABS controller, wiring loom with ABS connections, acceleration sensor, all new brake pipes, mountings and connections... 3). Sell my car and buy one with ABS! But I don't really want to do that as I've spent so much time and money on my current one! ... Unless anyone has a really nice Black SZ/SZ-R manual WITH ABS taking up too much room? I favour the second option, but what's it likely to cost? Anyone got any other ideas??

I'm here with my NA too. I went Metro GTA, Mazda MX-3 V6, to Supra (over several years!). I'm really beginning to like the Supe, particularly now I've changed my shocks and it doesn't rattle anymore!

Hi, I recently fitted one of these alarms to my car. Highly recommended. Lots of wires! But fairly straight forward if you take your time. I've got loads of info that I collected while I was doing it. Including the full Toad Intructions, with details of how to set the software options, etc. Also, can tell you the colours of most wires you need and where to find them in the car. Only problem is this stuff is back at home and I'm not back there till new year! Give me a shout if you still need anything then.

That's great thank you! That all seems to stack up. Looks like I might have replaced my belt a year or so early... but theres no harm in that!

Hi Dan, Further to the above, here are some of my thoughts on buying a “fresh” import. An import gives you lots of advantages, clean –no rust, low mileage, better choice, hopefully serviced. If you’re after a Supra, a Jap car may be the only option anyway! I have an NA Jspec and I haven’t problems with the fact it’s an import. Parts are easy to obtain, the Toyota garage fully supports it and even the independent garages locally can source parts. My insurance is reasonable (although I suspect I could insure a UK TT for a similar price). One thing a would say though, for the sort of money you want to spend, you might want to avoid “fresh” imports. By this I mean a car that’s just been brought into the UK and for which you’ll be the first registered keeper. You see them on ebay quite a lot and there are lots places that will import for you. My reasoning is that a fresh import will need time and money spent on it :- - The speedo and odo need converting to MPH (£100) - Rear fog lamp needs to be fitted - If it’s less than ten years old it’ll need to be SVA tested - It will have to registered with the DVLA - MOT’d etc. - The insurance company will probably need you to fit a CAT1 alarm (£300-£500) The importer or dealer, may do all or some of these things for you, but do check. Then there’s to fact that most imports have no service history, so fairly soon you’ll probably want to:- - Have a full service (£200-£400?) - Change the timing belt (£200) Plus remember you’ll be buying a ten year old (ish) car. The supra is a very well engineered, so you’re not likely to have reliability problems. But some things do wear out with age. Things like hoses and boot rubbers perish. Gas filled shocks get spongy! That sort of thing. Obviously each car should be judged on merit, but if you can find one that’s previously been in the UK for a year or so and has had these things attended to by the previous owner - then you won’t have to shell out as much!

Please see attached. Sorry it's a bit grainy - I couldn't separate it from the new one stuck on top, so I had to scan it from the back and flip it!

I did try an AUTO and yes it is a fantastic box. I think particularly for the TT - makes it a very smooth drive. I just wanted a manual. Dunno why really.

My car leaked engine oil. Started with a few drops but go worse and worse. Toyota said it was cos there was a "non genuine" oil filter - which I thought was rubbish! Took me a while to track it down but it turned out it was leaking from the two hex blanking bolts on the oil filter bracket. (See the picture attached). Took 'em out and put some thread lock/sealant on them and now it's fine. This might not be your problem but it could be worth a look.

I bought an NA and it's great! Sure nowhere near as fast as a TT, but it's still faster than 99% of things on the road. And it looks great. Mine was a conscious decision to buy an NA. They are cheaper and I really wanted a manual box, which seem to be harder to find for the TT. My car is my everyday driver so it had to be a bit more "sensible"!!!! The fuel economy is a bit better (26-30MPG) - not that it's really relevant with a car like this. In truth, as wel,l I didn't really trust my self with 320bhp, as I hadn't driven RWD before. For me it was the right thing to do. The car is fantastic and handles really well, but I am still learning to drive it properly! The NA gives a few benefits: - It is a SUPRA!! - It handles well - You have more choice - You can either have a cheaper or better car for your money But:- - You might long for the extra 100bhp after a while - If you're into tuning the TT gives you more options You need to ask yourself what you want it for. The NA is a great, practical GT car, but if want to tweak the thing probably best go for the TT. I don't think its particularly economic to mod your NA to get TT performance. I guess it's around £3-4k for a single turbo conversion, or you could swap the engine for £2-3k?

Thanks I'll see if a can get the old sticker off, trouble is it's under the new one!

...Which reminds me... Before I had my belt changed there was a little sticker on the camcover that said something in Japanese about the milage of the timing belt change. Does anyone know if this means:- a) Mileage that the belt WAS changed at, or b) Mileage that the belt is DUE for change. Since I've had my belt done I have a new sticker that says in English option a). But wonder is the Jap label is different? I want to know cos it would probably help be verify whether my ODO milage is genuine or not!

I payed £193 at my local Toyota garage. I was expecting it to be more! Timing belt £28.83 Labour £135.50 Consumables £3.50 Plus the dreaded VAT £28.76 Worth having done on a Jspec for peace of mind, cos they don't seem to have much in the way of service history.

I'm after a Racelogic system too, but my car is a NA without ABS. I know you can get wheel speed sensor kits, has anyone tried fitting these to a supra before? Guess I'll need some custom brackets. Also is there still a kit around to fit the control knob into the dash, so that you don't have to stick the little control box on your dash with velcro!

Well in the past I've not had much faith in main dealers, but since I got my Supra in April, I've been to my local Toyota dealer, and they've been really good. Very helpful. They've got the Jap EPC and can always find the bits I want.... I was surprised! And their labour rate is less than the Mazda place I used to go to. I don't always get Toyota to do the work though, cos you can get cheaper else where.

The part no.s for the NA and TT pump assemblies are different, as the NA has the reservoir attached, the TT has it mounted on the wing. I think that some of the parts of the actual pump are the same for both, but not all are common. It's probably easiest if you grab a TT pump, unless you're up for stripping it down!