weinelm

Theres an L reg Celica sat in my garage at the moment it's got 156'000 miles on and still going strong. Engine still sounds great - Although I think it is in need of new shocks...

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No not that close really, but put it this way: I wasn't my usual cheerful self that day!!! Or that day I got the £300 quote to fix it!

Sorry to hear that. If it's any consolation my girlfriend washed my car over Christmas... unfortunately she dropped the sponge and picked up some gravel. I ended up with scratches all over the car. It goes into a body shop to be fixed on Monday! …We are still together though!

Nope, fully comp, but have 7 years NCB and I guess I have a good post code. I was with Sky last year and they made me an offer I couldn't refuse to stay with them this year too! I have to say I've found them very good so far.

I'm looking to get some poly bushes for my front anti roll bar. Super Pro have various sizes ranging from 24 to 32 mm. http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/fulcrumCat/ Does anyone know what the correct size is for a non turbo 1994 SZ supra? I measured it as 29mm, but 24 and 30 seem to be the popular choices on other sites (It was cold and dark when I measured... so I couldn't be sure)!

I have just renewed my insurance with Sky (Universal). I got a very good quote of £450 for myself (28) and the girlfriend (26). The car is a fairly standard 1994 SZ (Only changes are suspension and RaceLogic traction control).

I'd recommend the Toad Ai606, it doesn't have a tracker, but it has remote central locking and pretty much anything else you'd want a CAT1 alarm/imobiliser to do!

Sorry, I didn't see this post when I replied to your other thread. I had the "loose" spring thing too, when I had the Bilstein and Eibach combination. My car was very low at the front, like yours too. And the Bilstein and stock spring combination didn't need a spring compressor to assemble either, although not as loose. See my previous posts: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=54765&highlight=Bilstein http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=42043 I've never really got to the bottom of this. The Bilsteins are aftermarket (ie. not marked with Toyota) and have the part no.s: F4-B46-1792-HO -Front F4-B46-1793-HO -Rear The Eibach Spring part no.s are (although I'm back on stock now): 8222.001 8222.002 Reading your post, it sounds similar to my experience and I am still a little suspicious that the after market Bilsteins are different to Toyota Bilsteins.. or maybe that there are different versions of the after market ones? From the part numbers I've no idea if my shocks are the right ones or not. I've attached pics of mine and the Toyota marked ones, just for reference (ignore the red-circled spring seat this time... that was the other problem ). All that said my car seems to drive ok with the stock springs and Bilsteins. The car is now pretty much level. But I guess it’s possible that it’s still not at it’s best! Anyway hope you get yours sorted!

Yep, that's the case. Long story... A garage screwed it up, but I had to send it back to Bilstein to get it fixed! The shaft also got damaged by the side load caused by the spring being sat wrong. I do this stuff myself now! Btw Chris, did you get my email?

I've had both Eibach and standard springs with Bilstein shocks. I found that the Bilsteins did lower the front of the car, when compared with stock dampers : http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=54765 As the Eibach springs lower the car at the front too, I found the front did drop more than I wanted. I also found that lift-over oversteer was increased with this combination - I didn't like it much! (Although Eibachs give an acceptable ride and don't roll much, which is nice). The car is pretty much level with stock springs and Bilstein shocks. This is how I've currently got it and the handling seems more predictable. I understand that a stock supra should sit rear down, so I wonder whether somehow I've got the wrong sort of Bilsteins.

Exactly the same thing happened to me! It turned out that the spring seat on one of the shocks was upside down. I had to send it back to Bilstein to get it turned around. See pic.

I have an NA, I think the sensor you are talking about is an intake temperature sensor. Mine fell out once and the car still ran, but I would think you should try and find somewhere to put it with your new filter. Unfortunately I can't offer any suggestions on this. Edited - Ah didn't read the last post there!

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Might be wrong but I think 'half shaft' equals 'drive shaft'. Although a whole wheel bearing and drive shaft for £360 odd quid sounds quite cheap. Nic, When I've decided about bushes I might have to add a rear wheel bearing to the list too!

Hi there Liam, Any TRD bush sets, or anti-roll bars? Thanks

Has it got ABS? I'm after a Front Right sensor.

It could be one of the climate control servos. Mine make a quiet creak for a couple of seconds sometimes, but everything seems to work still. Check if all the climate controls function ok: Hot/Cold, Outside-Air/Re-circulate etc. I doubt the servos are easy to get at though if they do need replacing, but if everything works I wouldn't worry.

Well it looks like I'm ok to use my stock NA springs then. It's weird though, cos my springs seem too short for the Bilstein shock. When you assemble the strut the spring is hardly tight (you don't need a spring compressor to assemble it). The springs are fine with the stock NA shock. I'm wondering if the spring seat on my Bilstein is lower than it should be, for some reason? My Bilsteins aren’t marked with Toyota. Anyone got some proper Toyota Bilsteins laying around that they can measure for me (per diagram above)?

Thanks. Does anyone know which springs an NA with the optional Bilsteins has? Are they same as TT, standard NA, or something else?

Hi, Yes it was Thornford Transmissions (although they are actually in Yetminster): Unit 4, Station Rd, Yetminster, Sherborne, Dorset DT9 6LH Tel: 01935 873146 They used geniune Toyota bits and I think they were about £60 cheaper than the local Toyota Garage. They had my car for two days to do it, but I've had no problems with the clutch. Cheers, Matt

When the clutch went on my NA it cost me £470 (at a transmission specialist near Yeovil), that was for parts & labour, but the flywheel didn't need replacing. As people have already said you can't leave this job. My car went from occasional slip to nearly undrivable very quickly (probably around 200 miles) and if you drive with the clutch slipping you could be overheating the flywheel and maybe even gearbox bearings too. Hope you get it sorted .

That's how I noticed mine wasn't working... except I was on a long sweeping bend! Hope you get yours sorted.

If you’ve got RLTC check your RPM signal! The following is likely to be more relevant to NA owners but may be relevant to TT too. I discovered in somewhat scary circumstances this week that my RLTC hasn’t been working above about 5000 RPM. Fortunately the Supra and I survived to do some investigation. Basically there are some RPM signals in the car which don’t appear to be strong enough to drive the RLTC over about 5000 RPM. If you look at the attached trace from the RLTC data logger you can see what happened on my car, the signal suffers from drop-outs at higher RPMs. It had me fooled, because it works fine at lower RPMs, so I didn’t notice when I first installed and tested the system. The trouble is that from the RLTC unit’s point of view the drop-outs look like that engine RPM has actually fallen and once it drops below the minimum threshold (default 2000RPM) the system does not apply any traction control! On the NA there are a couple of signals that produce this effect and I would suggest you avoid for RLTC: IGT – Igniter Trigger – ECU (E9) Pin 57 - Red/White Wire IGF – Igniter Feedback – ECU (E9) Pin 58 - Red/Yellow Wire These are often used to pick up RPM on the NA, as there is no dedicated RPM output on the NA ECU, unlike the TT ECU. I’ve not tested to see if this effect is evident on the TT, but the TT is similar with six Igniter Triggers IG1 to IG6 and some people use the IGF signal if there are too many things already loaded on the dedicated RPM output pin. On the NA the wire that is used to drive the TACHO seems to work fine, this comes straight from the Igniter and not the ECU. It can be found at the back of the Rev counter amongst other places. If you have a NA I would suggest you use this signal! TACHO – (A) Pin 13 – Black/White (from EXT – Ignitor External Output – Igniter Pin 4 – Black/White). If you want to check your car is ok, you can either plug a laptop in and use the RaceLogic software, or watch the little green diagnostic light with the slip control knob set to Off. Either way Rev the car hard and check the signal doesn’t disappear!! At this time of year you really don't want your RLTC to fail...

I also had Toyota KYB's on my NA before I changed to Bilsteins... as Ibrar Jabbar's picture shows they have both Toyota and KYB marked on them.