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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

weinelm

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Everything posted by weinelm

  1. Yeah, you should be able to sort the thread with a file. Getting hold of a few needle files may be your best bet. A copper mallet can be useful for separating shafts, ball joints etc, as it has a soft face that won't ruin the threads.
  2. One part has a hole for the ABS sensor, and the other doesn't. There is no difference between the hubs for a TT or NA.
  3. weinelm

    n/a parts

    I might be interested in the drive shafts if the car has ABS. Have you got any details of the car, age, mileage, accident? etc
  4. Chris, just to confirm (as per our email correspondence), I will definitely want a set of J spec fast road pads when I bring the car up in April. Thanks! Matt
  5. Milocoon, Have a look at this thread, it may not be your issue, but could be worth a try: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=54832 Alternatively, it could be that you have picked your RPM signal off one of the igniter trigger lines (IGT1 to IGT6), these will only fire a sixth as often as the feedback line (IGF), the ECU RPM output or Tacho feed. If the system is set up correctly (receiving the correct signal) the cylinders should be set to 6. Hope you get it sorted, Cheers, Matt
  6. I took mine off and used a rotary wire bush on a drill to clean them up. They ended up looking pretty good though.
  7. I wouldn't have thought the system would be working to well. I've had a look at the DAT and your graphs and I can't really work it out. I did wonder whether the calibration has worked and that the right channels are allocated to the right wheels? You could jack up the car, spin the wheels one at a time and check that they are allocated correctly.
  8. Hmm. Looks odd to me. The only thing that would affect this in the DAT file is the wheel diameter (calculated from tyre size in the RLTC config software) and the pulses per revolution settings (which I believe should be set to 48 all round for the Supra). If your DAT file is right, then maybe it is a problem with the actual sensors or the toothed rotors they pick up from at the hubs? Although then you might see ABS problems?
  9. Thanks for all the info guys. Yep edges on my last set of rear tyres were completely gone! That aligment was done with a completely stock suspension too. Now I've got Bilsteins on it's time to get it sorted properly I think!
  10. Actually not that much - £40. However, from what CW is saying I think I'll be taking it somewhere else when I get the bushes & rear wheel bearing sorted out
  11. The local Toyota garage did my wheel alignment last year. I'm wondering whether to go back to them this year after I've changed my suspension bushes? Printouts from last year attached. Coloured pictures and numbers... all look very nice. But I don't really know what I'm looking at! Do they know what they're doing?
  12. Must all be in the technique – I managed to work the big hammer though!
  13. I might be interested in the driveshaft, is it the ABS type? Also is that part number right? The parts catalogue says that part no. is for the 6sp.
  14. I tried one of those, but I couldn't get it to slide under the ball joint. It works for the steering joint, but not the suspension. I think you need a pretty large splitter to do the Supra.
  15. When I changed my hubs I couldn't find a ball joint separator that was large enough. It was recommended that I use a copper-headed mallet to separate the joint. - it worked for me. The copper head is important to avoid damaging the thread of the taper.
  16. My power steering rack has started to leak (fluid is dipping out from one of the boots!). I think you can buy a replacement seal kit from toyota. Has anyone done this and is it a DIY job? Does any know the cost of a new rack or the replacement seal kit from Toyota? Thanks,
  17. The car doesn't have ABS. I've changed the front hubs for ABS ones and I'm taking the rear signal from the speedo sensor (effectively prop shaft speed). I've set up the system in '3 Sensor mode'. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=41464&highlight=RLTC+ABS It works really well and is actually quite easy to do. I'll probably add rear ABS hubs, ABS drive shafts and change to the '4 sensor mode' at some point in the future though, as you do get a bit of unwanted cut on really tight corners in WET mode. It can't really be dialed out on the three sensor set up without affecting other areas of the traction control.
  18. If you've changed all the senors, it could be the toothed rotors in the hub are damaged? You may be able to check by removing the sensor, looking down the hole with a torch and slowly turning the hub. Check all the teeth are intact. To change the front rotors you have to press open the bearing, so you'd probably need a new bearing afterwards. The rotor is a seperate part. The rear rotors are on the hub end of the drive shaft and I beleive you can remove the driveshaft without removing the rear hub. I think the rotor may be part of the CV joint and may not be available separately.
  19. Yeah, even in a NA you can get the back out before 1600 RPM (2nd Gear) in the wet! (I know, my RLTC data logger told me so).
  20. I'll stick my neck out and say most of the time the back comes out unexpectedly it's because there is too much throttle for the conditions. Although of course there is no accounting for an oil spill on your favourite corner. Lift-off oversteer can be a bit more scary, as it can happen when you think you've done nothing wrong (of course you have, lifted-off to quickly!), but still not much you can do about it until it tucks back in. Hopefully with a properly set up car it should be fairly hard to get into this situation? Edit: Yeah, like the others guys said. I'm too slow at typing!
  21. Yep, perfectly possible to get the back end out in an NA; deliberately or not . In the winter with slippery roads you have to be careful in any rear wheel drive car. I have RLTC fitted to my NA and it makes a very friendly everyday car. In the wet you know that you're not going to spin by mistake... and in the summer you can drift beautifully off roundabouts...like you did it all yourself! As an aside most NA's have an open diff... is this more or less controllable with the back out than with a LSD?
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