Markie

Had intellistart installed a while ago. Hardly used car since as it was not behaving very well because the alarm engineer put the intelli RPM wire to an injector wire. Car not performing very well could be down to this or some other unexplained problem. Anyways, car is working lovely now and this is after I moved the RPM signal weire for the intellistart to the ECU wire for RPM signal. Could someone please let me know if it makes much difference using the ECU wire to when it was originally installed using one of the injector wires. In the intellistart manual it says use non-common wire on an injector or from coil, but also mentionens this is the wire for RPM signal. Do they all just run off the same 0V-6V scale or do I need to re-teach the RPM value for the alarm? Thanks..

Heard Thor one is the best, followed by the Greddy one. Some people on here think the HKS FCD is not the best, so I not fancying replacing my HKS with an exact replacment. Anyone able to put some Pro's and Con's up or link a thread to one comparing the three please?

Wish I would of had more ideas/suggetions from the forum on this problem as it was an easy fix in the end.... So thanks to a guy I spoke to from http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/ He pointed me to checking the FCD. I had the time tonight to remove the FCD out of the loop and now the engine management lights and flashing ABS light have now stopped reporting problems. So it looks like the FCD had a bit of a problem. Odd though as it was still boosting over stock levels. So thanks to the guy I spoke to. Did not get his name. Cheers boyo..

Finally some time to try and sort this poblem out again. None got any ideas on what wires I could check or anything please? Still having the ECU error 35 and ABS 41 errors after ECU reset etc.

Might remove the HKS FCD to see if it still happens. Any thoughts? As I cant think of anything else that could cause the Turbo Pressure error after tidying up the wires around the ECU.

Checked. HKS FCD deffo on setting 12. What problem could this cause if supposed to be on setting 9?

I am sure I removed the battery before tidying up.. But cant say for sure as it was a few months back. I have done the EFI reset and all. These are the codes after that has been done. Don't know if VVT-i's are different with fault codes but in the stickys it says turbo pressore sensor fault? Also the ABS warning light flashing was confusing, was not expecting that to do anything.

Not had time to get this to Chris as planned, so with a spare 5 minutes tonight I tried that new method which apparently works with VVT-i's found in the stickys... The Engine light was giving me the code 35, but also the ABS light was giving me a code aswell which was 41. I was not expecting that. Anyways, anyone got an idea on where to start checking as the car seems to run fine, maybe a touch low on power but still fine. I have only tidied up the wires down by the ECU and FCD. Help please...

Shite thats a steep price. I would hate to shell out and find out its washer fluid is empty How about renting it?

Funny this thread should be active as today I took arrival of the CAN ODBII U581 from MEMOSCAN. It supports all 4 known ODBII protocols; I was quite confident it would work, but no, it autoscanned all 4 protocols and each one failed. As its been mentioned before, its goto be some silly hybrid (CURSE!) Anyone able to confirm or tried the method stated from the NZ forum? Anyone got a link to the forum with this thread?

BEE R Power Builder & HKS Turbo Timer for sale. Used, both workng. Selling due to no need for them anymore. Any reasonable offers please.. Pictures attached.

Anyone got any ideas if Toyota will test the codes for me on a VVT-i Just as side note, took her out for a spin tonight. All seemed fine. Boosting quite high, but in general seemed fine. Still got the engine light and warning light lit perm.. Battery is pritty much dead. Would the ECU throw a warning up for battery low or battery not charging? Also, if the FCD was not working properly I would expect the engine cut at 0.7 BAR, but as it was boosting to over 1.1 does this mean the FCD is working and doing its job? I think it is but just checking. Wait, don't go yet.......... If a cylinder was not working/injector not working properly, would you generally expect to notice it at idle or on boost? Hope someone can help with some of these queries. I have an idea on most but not been about for a while and just want to double check stuff. Anyways, came back with a smile on my face. They are such head turners and I burned the misses off with her driving the STI

Does Toyota do the codes diag for the VVT-i anyone know? Had her running a bit more tonight.. Still engine light on However, noticed the car slippery light is on also on the dash. RLTC is installed and seems to be working. Any way of testing this properly without having to blast it up the road? Anyone have an idea what I can check, before I get it to someone who can diagnose with tester?

Hello all, Finally had the time to get the Supra of out hibernation today. Charged battery as it was DEAD. Turned the engine over a few times not fully starting her. Then started her up after a few minutes. Seemed to run fine idling, but the engine management light is perm on. Not taken her for a run yet, as I was a bit affraid to, just incase I caused some damage to something. Any ideas how I can get the fault codes, as them Carscan things are way expensive and I don't think anyone who has one lives close. I can't use the paperclip method as she is a VVT-i. Any ideas please? Or can someone visit me for a good price to check for me Thanks, Marcus.

Have not used mine for 8 months! I could be persuded to sell now, as she aint getting used as much as I should. Check out my garage details for some details.

Any ideas boys on the above please?

Another one I have dug up Just wondering what problems would the HKS FCD cause if its on setting 12? Whats the difference in the settings?

Thanks guys.. Will try them out.

Just wondering if any traders got some deals on the IK series plugs for Christmas? Want to get some. Are the IK ones still the ones to get or are there better ones out there now? I usally get the IK24's

Has started just all of a sudden? Like parking it one day all fine then the next spluttering? I have similiar problem at the moment.

Unit removed from the car. Did not want to use it anymore. No reason for the sale, just triming down on the gadgets.

*uc*ing hell!

Will try that along with the ECU reset Ian. Thanks... Just cant understand why its happened. It was fine when I parked her in the garage before the work

OK, update... Took her out tonight to do a bit more investigating. Cut the lead from the alarm to the No: 6 injector so that was out of the equasion. Car revs upto 7+K RPM's fine when standing still, however planting the right foot she will get to about 4.5-5k RPM's and start spluttering, cutting out etc. I managed to take a few glances at my Blitz boost controller which was saying approx 1.27 BAR. So I am assuming this rules out the FCD being unplugged? Second turbo comes online but its the 5k+ RPMs where its going a bit odd. Really lost now. And starting to hate the damn thing even though its done nothing wrong. I am going to reset the ECU tomorrow and test that, but cant see it being that as if I have had the battery disconnected before and she start playing up with the second turbo comming online it sorts itself out and learns after a few boots and a mile or two. Run her for at least 10-15 miles and a lot of boots on the loud pedal and it still remains the same. Just out of interest. changed the diff and gearbox oil the same time alarm was put in. Surely its not any of this in some weird way? Defi gauges still not working, but thats probably just a loose wire I am hoping.

Its fine up until about 5k, possible a little lower. Also no problems with her since the alarm fitting.