Markie

I was really worried about doing this. But once you see the layout of wires etc, it is really quite easy.

Had a disagreement with management yesterday. I am handing my notice in. Therefore, anyone know any jobs in IT going or any decent sites to check? Seems hardworking and moving things forward is not something they like. they rather premote someone who has just been done inet and e-mail abuse.. F*ck the lot of em

Ian, you are a diamond.. I will check this today matey.. Many Thanks, Marcus.

Anyone got any ideas on this please.. Kind of want to get it back on the road

Guys, I have removed the connection. Tested the wires with IGN on. Found the following: 4 Wires. 1 Wire is 12V feed - with NEG probe on battery.. Other 3 pins gave no readout. 2 wires gave reading of 11.4V and 1 wire gave reading of 10.4V with +POS probe on battery. Any ideas which one is the sorsor wire, which I can tap into and test the O2 sensor reading?

I moved my Blitz SUS induction today First time I have had the cold air box off since having the car. What I found was a bit odd. Filter was pushed to one side by the rad/fan, and by the cold feed pipe left from the stock air box was keeping a lovely cold air flow all over the alarm siren So, needless to say. Moved the alarm and put, best I could the air filter in the flow of the air. Oh, and used some more cable tie's... I love them, oh and I love velcro strips

Yes, parking in the street you live in, you must be racist.. What a pile of poo! I hate that kind of stuff. Sod him.. Although, keep a clser eye on your car over the next few days, as some people like that may get a bit more knobish and do something.

Netgear do good ADSL modems. Some come with wireless also which can be handy.

Hi Ian, Thanks for that.. You know you mentioned about testing the loom with the connector unplugged? Just wondering if the sensor is unplugged, why do I still need to do that safety pin thing, if I can put the probe into the connector.. Or am I not reading your reply right? Sorry.

Which wire off the sensor mate? There is more than one. And would it be the same test again? + probe on the wire, - on the neg?

Ian, the reading I had from that test was 0.0V Any ideas?

CJ, it is.

I think I have found the sensor mounted on the downpipe bit.. Does the whole mounting have to come off, or does the probe screw off or something, as its very arkward to get down there, and nuts are tight!

Yeah.. I am guessing when he wants it back to look over, its gonna cost me loads.. thats why I would like to try some things to see why its running rich and emissions are sky high.

He said that the car may have a fuel enrichment device on it somewhere, possibly added as a mod

Learning my car failed the MOT, visit thread please if you have any ideas on major high emission fixes/tests I had a chat to one of the guys there.. He was saying that if uprated the power etc in my car, in the end I would have to have a mapping for performance, and then a second mapping just for MOT tests.. Is this really true? Anyone had to do this.. Oh and he slagged off forums then advised me to think about twin turbos for an upgrade, not a single, as they are too much power at once for a road/street car.. On a scale of 1 to 10.. How much is this guy shoveling? Need to know, as he wants me car back on Wednesday to test this running rich problem and emissions stuff, so I would like to try and find the problem myself, without him getting his hands on it again if he sounds full of it.

How do I check that Lamda sensor my old mucker? ie, where it is and how to test it? Many Thanks, Marcus.

Hmm, my 98 VVT-i I had idling and checked that 0x1 test. I had a stable reading of 0.0V Anyone know what this could mean please?

Will the car running too rich really cause these high readings, or is there something else at work here? Going to try and check the 0X1 pin, pull ECU fuses, get tank of petrol then re-check the readings.

Bad news all, was after some feedback on what the outcome was. Car passed everything except the emissions Took the car down to my garage and they put on the front cat ready for the MOT. Had a ring this afternoon saying it had failed the MOT and was running REALLY rich.. Anyways, these dont make much sense to me, but here are the figures on the print out: Fast Idle Test: CO Limit = 0.30% VOL - ACTUAL VALUE = 9.25% VOL - FAIL HC Limit = 200ppm VOL - ACTUAL VALUE = 189ppm VOL - PASS "Funny symbol thing" Limit = 0.970 - 1.030 - ACTUAL VALUE = 0.748 - FAIL Second Fast Idle Test: CO Limit = 0.30% VOL - ACTUAL VALUE = 8.91% VOL - FAIL HC Limit = 200ppm VOL - ACTUAL VALUE = 238ppm VOL - FAIL "Funny symbol thing" Limit = 0.970 - 1.030 - ACTUAL VALUE = 0.755 - FAIL Natural Idle Test: CO Limit = 0.50% VOL - ACTUAL VALUE = 9.50% VOL - FAIL They said CAT was hot enough etc etc... READINGS ARE WAY WAY HIGH!! Please, anyone got any idea on how or why this is happening? They harped on about it being too rich also..

Oh you tease.. Get out there and take some photos ya bugger

Mines just labeled 1 2 3 on the pins..

How you doing! ;-)

Hmm, I tried that way... Damn stupid electronics!! How do I get hold of emin? I did a search, but could not find him

Link to the switch I have. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=44877&TabID=1&source=15&WorldID=&doy=7m3 It says it illuminates. Does this mean it will light up when its switched on or all the time? Trying to wire the damn thing in and blown 3 10A fuses already Anyone have an idea on how to plum these 3 pin switches in so that it works to run the fogs on and also lights up when the switch is set to on. After returning from the garage I had an idea of wiring it up like the following: Power from when the lights turned on connected to PIN 1, wire to fogs on PIN 2 (Which Works) and then before I had an earth connected to PIN 3, but now I think it should have a feed off PIN 2 to light the LED inside the switch.. Any have ideas on this stuff?