Markie

Is this overpriced?

Selling my Supra which I really have tried to avoid doing for a while now, but its now something that has to be done. Here are a few bits of info about it: Performance Upgrades: Full De-CAT Blitz SUS Induction Kit TDI Carbon Cold air Box Blitz LM Front Mounted Intercooler NGK Iridium Plugs AMUSE R1000 CAT Back Exhaust System WhifBitz Front Pipe WhifBitz 2nd CAT Bypass Blitz SBC id Boost Controller HKS FCD Racelogic Traction Control with Launch Control RPS Streetmax Clutch B&M Short Shifter HVS Hot Earth System HVS Hot Wires TDI Uprated Fuel Pump Cusco Strut Brace Exterior: Tinted Windows Do - Luck front bumper Veilside Side Skirts TRD Carbon Fibre Rear Wing Volks Racing GTN 18'' Split rim Alloys Clear front & side repeaters Chromed Vacum Pipe Assembly Hose Technics Kit (Blue Colour) HID Headlight conversion UK Brake Calipers front and rear with Genuine Toyota discs and Porterfield Pads Interior: Defi Link System with Boost & EGT Guages in A-Pillar Kenwood Touch Screen 7" DVD Player with Music Keg MISC: Clifford G5 Cat 1 Alarm/Immobiliser with full closure, tilt sensors, turbo timer, remote start Polished FMIC Panel Polsihed Fuse Box Covers Mileage: 84K Its just had new rear suspension done. Also its just been valeted inside and out with a machine polish. It has a fresh MOT as of the 19/10/2015 Obviously it does have some cosmetic chips and a few scratches for a car of this age. I would of liked to give it a re-spay at some point if I was keeping it, but it does shine up well. It has had the cambelt changed about 3 years ago at I think it was 70,000 miles. I have tons of receipts for all work carried out, even the import documents in Japanese. I have owned for car for coming up 11 years now and really had no problems with the car itself apart from an O2 sensor which was cured when I brought a genuine part instead of trying the cheaper varieties which used to be sold off here. You can search through the posts on here, but I think every other problem has been a third party bit of kit issue, such as the RLTC system resetting it self to a 4 cylinder config or the Clifford alarm having a loose connection. The most I did spend on the actual car was about 2 years ago where I had Whifbitz fit discs, pads all round and one of their down pipes which cost me over a grand. I really am going to miss the car and it still looks timeless, and when the misses drives it and I see it on the road or it pulling off I instantly think of ways a maybe could keep it, won't want to watch it drive away that's for sure.. If I had the money I would certainly keep it! I do think it needs boot rubbers, so I will get these replaced. Everything else is all working and its currently used 5 days a week, instead of what it used to be which was 2 days a week, and them days both start with an S!!!! I am looking for around £14,500. Here are a few pictures: http://1drv.ms/1P9deWj Going to advertise this on Autotrader and Piston Heads on the weekend.. Thanks, Marcus.

Some lovely cars there.. I parked mine a bit away from the lovely polished ones, as mine needs a good polish! Did not meet Paul, don't know what he looks like, only spoke to him on the phone before. Few GTR's there as well. Had the best baguette I have had for a longtime from the van mind!

Can't say I have noticed.. You have to buy tokens if you want to fast track buying parts and cars, but if you have I'm game money I don't think you have to spend real cash.

Latest in the saga... Changed plugs and checked vacccum hoses and clips for MAP sensor and coils etc. All looked good. Put my old MAP sensor back on. Still the same issue, but now got error 35 again. It's weird though because when resetting and trying again it start to blink like there is no fault, but then starts outputting error 35 and this is without engine running so it is something it's finding on a pre system check (ECU again) Anyways, put the sensor I brought back on, and reset codes but still getting the error code now a couple of seconds after blinks saying there is nothing wrong. Is sounds/feels a bit like when the race logic System cuts spark to plugs when you loose grip, but it's doing this like mentioned before even on low boost. Whenever going over about 40-50 mph Would a faulty sensor blow a circuit on the ECU, but then again with the ECU repaired and with the sensor I brought, it was still the same anyway, just it did not log the error code

Did not actually say I had changed the plugs to be honest.. I will be checking although I did not think it had been 8 years... Time flys. I think maybe the error codes have been something to confuse matters..

Ok.. Just had a quick look on Wilfbllitz garage and they say the connectors are prone to go brittle, but they do say on the PRE VVTI so guessing it's better on the VVTIs ? I will check though I like the look of the super spark ones :-)

Do they just "go" they have been undisturbed for 8 years Any idea how long they usually last along with the spark plugs? Seeing as it suddenly just started when driving as well.

I am getting XBOX One with Forza.. So if anyone getting it, then let's race! Markie Parkie is my gamer tag

Just read this off Nic from a post ages ago.. "Misfire - 1 or more plugs causes a miss in 1 or more cylinders, this is felt/heard as a hesitation in the revs. A misfire is usually caused either by worn/wrong plugs or broken coil pack connectors, symptoms usually only occur at high rpms/high boost, the car can run fine at lower rpms/boost levels." Does sound like what I have.. How long do plugs last and the coil packs.. Mine are about 8years old because I changed the lot in 2005. Will be looking at connectors today and boosts and vacuum pipes

I'll take a look at codes tomorrow morning.. Not stripped plug yet, was dark when I goy home :-( Did not look at revs.. It's deformed not when the second turbo kicks in and first turbo seemed fine if under 45 ish. Dump valve and all. I am starting to think maybe O2 sensor? Don't that kick in at a certain speed?

Just had a longer run.. I don't think it matters if it's under load.. Seems to happen on straight as well, but it only seems to start the stuttering at approx 45-50 MPH, don't know if that helps diagnose.. Temp is a little low, but maybe it's now the cold weather and not able to work the engine, so I think that is normal.

Hi Dave.. Yeah bang on.. signal wire from MAP sensor now back connected and bypassing the FCD. I did have as normal readings as possible from the sensor when I tried without obviously having some equipment that I could connect to intake plenium to provide the pressure instead of me trying to read the boost off the gauge and also check the voltages outputted. This was before the ECU was sent off, so thats why I was pinning my hopes to the ECU being the issue as the sensor readings seemed ok. - - - Updated - - - Haha.. Tidy, if its no go this weekend I will give him a ring butt.. Cheers.

You mean the connector plugs that go into the ECU? I just thought with the error code and now the ECU having been repaired and the error code stopped that the darn thing should start working.. If it was a connector fault they would not of found anything wrong with the ECU? I will give it a visual check though.. Any idea who I can take it to now though who would be able to troubleshoot better than me? Dave the FCD currently is not in the circuit, I have put the Turbo pressure sensor to bypass that at the moment..

Did not dismantle no.. Used some electric cleaning stuff on it though.. The car all of a sudden went like this on the road.. Would that be a dirty contact though?

Could not see much wrong with the wires to the sensor. The reading to the sensor was about 4.5-5, as I think it should be. I have got a HKS FCD in between the ECU and the Sensor reading wire.. However I did bypass that on my test this afternoon.. I would love to try an ECU but a manual VVTi one is hard to find. I have had the ECU tested and fixed though.. Or so they said. Not getting any error codes anymore.. Well saying no error codes, just getting a constant flash of the engine management light when doing the E1 TC pin trick.. It was giving me error 35 before..

Hi Dave.. Not sure what you mean.. I have changed the sensor and the ECU has been out of the car for 3weeks so would of thought that would of reset it. The voltages from the sensor before I sent the ECU away seemed to be looking normal from my basic testing.. I have noticed the engine temp lower than usual but put that down to short test run and there being an error code before.

UPDATE: Had the ECU tested and it was found it was faulty.. Turbo pressure sensor circuit.. Cost me £300 for diag, parts and fixing, Auto Tek in Dorset was the company.. Sounded like they knew what they were doing.. Anyways, ECU back today.. Still the problem remains :-( however on getting back to the house I found no error codes logged, so no idea what's up.. Starting to think again is it that fuel additive again but thought that would be rough at idle and low speed as well, or maybe it's shifted some dirt into fuel filter to something.. Grasping at straws now, and it seems the ECU did have an issue and error code 35 was being logged before getting the ECU looked at. I did the test run earlier without the FCD connected so then I thought is it fuel cutting, but it's more of a stutter and I was not boosting over 1 bar. Any ideas? Starting to think I may just sell up now, don't have the time for this anymore :-(

Anyone on here I can take the car to? Just spoke to Toyota and they said there is no guarantee they will find the problem in the given hour so it could take them a few hours @80 +VAT each hour..! They also said they only have the data for the UK cars, so its sounds like it could just be pot luck?

Jae, thank you for clearing all this up for me, I do appreciate the work you have done. What is the next step for cancellation? I have to say this though - I was not advised of your price match until the time I phoned AFTER I sent my letter of cancellation in to yourselfs after hearing nothing. I remember thinking why has none asked me what the better price was when I expressed my disire to leave. I am sure there would be a recording of my conversations over the last 3 weeks which would confirm this if you needed to check. But again, I do appreciate you sorting this mess out. Thanks.

Hi, I did the quote with 1 years no claims. Ill be honest its just one big mix up because I have two documents from yourselves, one showing 0 NCB and a later documents showing we had 1 NCB, so I used that on the quote. I was told though that this should not be a problem and they just had to check with their manager who must spend all day in meetings that it was ok and they would let me know... Which they did not, I had to chase again. No idea where the 2 years came from as I am sure I did it on 1 years no claims. Just out of interest, does a 1 year difference in a NCB reuselt in a £300 difference in premium.. Like I said, I would be happy to pay the £90 to cancel this which I was told initially, but not now the £250! I have already paid £78 for the first month payments of the mega high premium of £720 for a diesel 308. What I am trying to say is from the keeping me on the line doing all this price match instead of cancelling the policy when I requested it now making me pay £250 and the £78 I have already paid against the £91 I was happy to do.

These lot want to charge me £250 for the cancellation of a policy now in which I was quoted £91 in the cool off period and seeing as I have a letter from them confirming they received my wish to cancel within the 14 day cool off period (Oct 9th) The only reason this has gone on for so long is that they said they could price match Tesco and this has been one long struggle to try and get sorted and only had one call back to update me where I have rung them 5+ times! Now, when my patience has run out and I want to just get things sorted and move on they want to charge me this silly amount. Peugeot is going from this lot and I am taking the Supra as well. NEVER gonna use these again.. Best Policy - Debatable Best Price - Nowhere near Best Service - Havin' a laugh Gonna just cancel the monthly now and they can take me to court for the rest as I think I have a good case with the letter confirming my cancellation within the 14 day cool off..

Well I did have a multimeter checking voltage changes and it did seem to be reporting ok like mentioned in my earlier post today. Which part are you referring to as I think of a loom as the huge mass of wires by the ECU?

Only the Wynnes fuel injector cleaner which was in it for two days previous.

No not done that.. But they been good so far and this problem was instant. One second car was fine, next stutter and like a misfire. Would it report this code though if it was just plugs?