Markie

Is this overpriced?

Selling my Supra which I really have tried to avoid doing for a while now, but its now something that has to be done. Here are a few bits of info about it: Performance Upgrades: Full De-CAT Blitz SUS Induction Kit TDI Carbon Cold air Box Blitz LM Front Mounted Intercooler NGK Iridium Plugs AMUSE R1000 CAT Back Exhaust System WhifBitz Front Pipe WhifBitz 2nd CAT Bypass Blitz SBC id Boost Controller HKS FCD Racelogic Traction Control with Launch Control RPS Streetmax Clutch B&M Short Shifter HVS Hot Earth System HVS Hot Wires TDI Uprated Fuel Pump Cusco Strut Brace Exterior: Tinted Windows Do - Luck front bumper Veilside Side Skirts TRD Carbon Fibre Rear Wing Volks Racing GTN 18'' Split rim Alloys Clear front & side repeaters Chromed Vacum Pipe Assembly Hose Technics Kit (Blue Colour) HID Headlight conversion UK Brake Calipers front and rear with Genuine Toyota discs and Porterfield Pads Interior: Defi Link System with Boost & EGT Guages in A-Pillar Kenwood Touch Screen 7" DVD Player with Music Keg MISC: Clifford G5 Cat 1 Alarm/Immobiliser with full closure, tilt sensors, turbo timer, remote start Polished FMIC Panel Polsihed Fuse Box Covers Mileage: 84K Its just had new rear suspension done. Also its just been valeted inside and out with a machine polish. It has a fresh MOT as of the 19/10/2015 Obviously it does have some cosmetic chips and a few scratches for a car of this age. I would of liked to give it a re-spay at some point if I was keeping it, but it does shine up well. It has had the cambelt changed about 3 years ago at I think it was 70,000 miles. I have tons of receipts for all work carried out, even the import documents in Japanese. I have owned for car for coming up 11 years now and really had no problems with the car itself apart from an O2 sensor which was cured when I brought a genuine part instead of trying the cheaper varieties which used to be sold off here. You can search through the posts on here, but I think every other problem has been a third party bit of kit issue, such as the RLTC system resetting it self to a 4 cylinder config or the Clifford alarm having a loose connection. The most I did spend on the actual car was about 2 years ago where I had Whifbitz fit discs, pads all round and one of their down pipes which cost me over a grand. I really am going to miss the car and it still looks timeless, and when the misses drives it and I see it on the road or it pulling off I instantly think of ways a maybe could keep it, won't want to watch it drive away that's for sure.. If I had the money I would certainly keep it! I do think it needs boot rubbers, so I will get these replaced. Everything else is all working and its currently used 5 days a week, instead of what it used to be which was 2 days a week, and them days both start with an S!!!! I am looking for around £14,500. Here are a few pictures: http://1drv.ms/1P9deWj Going to advertise this on Autotrader and Piston Heads on the weekend.. Thanks, Marcus.

Some lovely cars there.. I parked mine a bit away from the lovely polished ones, as mine needs a good polish! Did not meet Paul, don't know what he looks like, only spoke to him on the phone before. Few GTR's there as well. Had the best baguette I have had for a longtime from the van mind!

Can't say I have noticed.. You have to buy tokens if you want to fast track buying parts and cars, but if you have I'm game money I don't think you have to spend real cash.

Latest in the saga... Changed plugs and checked vacccum hoses and clips for MAP sensor and coils etc. All looked good. Put my old MAP sensor back on. Still the same issue, but now got error 35 again. It's weird though because when resetting and trying again it start to blink like there is no fault, but then starts outputting error 35 and this is without engine running so it is something it's finding on a pre system check (ECU again) Anyways, put the sensor I brought back on, and reset codes but still getting the error code now a couple of seconds after blinks saying there is nothing wrong. Is sounds/feels a bit like when the race logic System cuts spark to plugs when you loose grip, but it's doing this like mentioned before even on low boost. Whenever going over about 40-50 mph Would a faulty sensor blow a circuit on the ECU, but then again with the ECU repaired and with the sensor I brought, it was still the same anyway, just it did not log the error code

Did not actually say I had changed the plugs to be honest.. I will be checking although I did not think it had been 8 years... Time flys. I think maybe the error codes have been something to confuse matters..

Ok.. Just had a quick look on Wilfbllitz garage and they say the connectors are prone to go brittle, but they do say on the PRE VVTI so guessing it's better on the VVTIs ? I will check though I like the look of the super spark ones :-)

Do they just "go" they have been undisturbed for 8 years Any idea how long they usually last along with the spark plugs? Seeing as it suddenly just started when driving as well.

I am getting XBOX One with Forza.. So if anyone getting it, then let's race! Markie Parkie is my gamer tag

Just read this off Nic from a post ages ago.. "Misfire - 1 or more plugs causes a miss in 1 or more cylinders, this is felt/heard as a hesitation in the revs. A misfire is usually caused either by worn/wrong plugs or broken coil pack connectors, symptoms usually only occur at high rpms/high boost, the car can run fine at lower rpms/boost levels." Does sound like what I have.. How long do plugs last and the coil packs.. Mine are about 8years old because I changed the lot in 2005. Will be looking at connectors today and boosts and vacuum pipes

I'll take a look at codes tomorrow morning.. Not stripped plug yet, was dark when I goy home :-( Did not look at revs.. It's deformed not when the second turbo kicks in and first turbo seemed fine if under 45 ish. Dump valve and all. I am starting to think maybe O2 sensor? Don't that kick in at a certain speed?

Just had a longer run.. I don't think it matters if it's under load.. Seems to happen on straight as well, but it only seems to start the stuttering at approx 45-50 MPH, don't know if that helps diagnose.. Temp is a little low, but maybe it's now the cold weather and not able to work the engine, so I think that is normal.

Hi Dave.. Yeah bang on.. signal wire from MAP sensor now back connected and bypassing the FCD. I did have as normal readings as possible from the sensor when I tried without obviously having some equipment that I could connect to intake plenium to provide the pressure instead of me trying to read the boost off the gauge and also check the voltages outputted. This was before the ECU was sent off, so thats why I was pinning my hopes to the ECU being the issue as the sensor readings seemed ok. - - - Updated - - - Haha.. Tidy, if its no go this weekend I will give him a ring butt.. Cheers.

You mean the connector plugs that go into the ECU? I just thought with the error code and now the ECU having been repaired and the error code stopped that the darn thing should start working.. If it was a connector fault they would not of found anything wrong with the ECU? I will give it a visual check though.. Any idea who I can take it to now though who would be able to troubleshoot better than me? Dave the FCD currently is not in the circuit, I have put the Turbo pressure sensor to bypass that at the moment..

Did not dismantle no.. Used some electric cleaning stuff on it though.. The car all of a sudden went like this on the road.. Would that be a dirty contact though?