GLENN STONEHAM

Check your brake fluid resevoir level is at least up to the high mark & if anything a little over. Do a search on here on that subject & you will see its a common thingy. If that fails then do an error code check with paper clip to see if any codes.Again its all well described on here.http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=35920 Code 42 is a common one but take it a step at a time.

Either to borrow or buy if one going spare anywhere. I have posted this in the "parts wanted" section..... BUMP. Got the part No off my ECU which is 89661-14600 also says 175700-4762 12v 2JZ-GE A/T In case any traders/ breakers on here not seen this post, any suggestions who i might contact. The ECU is needed because present one may be a/f. If I could borrow one to check if mine is at fault (got bad over fuelling/ error code mode not performing) then that would help confirm or eliminate ECU from the equasion. cheers, Glenn.

BUMP. Got the part No off my ECU which is 89661-14600 also says 175700-4762 12v 2JZ-GE A/T In case any traders/ breakers on here not seen this post, any suggestions who i might contact. The ECU is needed because present one may be a/f. If I could borrow one to check if mine is at fault (got bad over fuelling/ error code mode not performing) then that would help confirm or eliminate ECU from the equasion.

WANTED-- for my 1994 J spec S Z with auto box. Must be known all working ok.

UPDATE. First thing this morning with engine cold overnight did error code check & got a result.... code 31. Air flow circuit fault. After 5 mins or so of ign. being on ( whilst testing air flow circuit voltage which was 5.1 volts engine off but ign. on with new fullycharged battery) the error /fault code function failed to show again , just as before. It seems that if ign. cicuit on for a while then code reading fails . I put ECU in fridge yesterday when this happened to see if it was returned to cold , would it work? It did not but this morning it did for a while as stated above. Error code reading probs aside, code 31 probs I have reviewed on tech. forum & there is some confusion & vagueness about the air flow meter for a j spec n/a. Most of the data is from U. S model reports not "j " spec. with different names suggested ie MAF , MAP & VAF for the sensors/metering involved for the n/a. Is the sensor in question for code 31 the one shown in pics of my engine attached? Simple looking sensor close to air filter box. Could this , or its circuit or the ECU be causing my serious overfueling & auto gearbox selection problems??? Anyone (especially Ian Chris & others that know) confirm this is the air flow meter. resistance test showed 2.5 K ohms to 2sensor terminals but voltage was only 5.1 as said above. Test data on here states a "gray" wire for sensor but the 2 wires are not grey at all' resistance test showed 2,5 K ohms 21102007260.zip 21102007262.zip 21102007263.zip

Forgot to answer this;- Is it one of those crazy immobilisers that use the MIL light to show when it's set? If so remove the immobiliser and the MIL light should function as Toyota intended. No it has its own ind. LED & all seems to be disarming etc when required.

Thanks guys, noted what you all said & had another go yesterday afternoon & today. Thought I had a breakthrough with error codes not showing but it didnt last. Noticed the battery was nearly flat after I last posted & thought that was problem so removed battery & put on charge for an hour and then reconnected as I left windows open & it was getting dark/damp.Closed windows & did code check & yes the MIL flashed so was hopeful. Deciding that batt might not be in good nick so installed a new one 2day expecting to find that the error code function worked & I could get a proper scan done by a suitably equipped diagnostics man to maybe signify where the system fault is. With new batt. in switched on & flashing mil, horay.BUT after starting engine to activate fault codes in ecu , turned ign off to do error code reading & the bloody mil just stayed on continuously again. Tried both ports then pulled efi fuses & still the same. For f**k sake I"m going mad & blood pressures up. Back to overfuelling / bad running prob. (car will hardly pull in D gear, lots of black smoke etc) I manually operated the idle control valve (ICV) by rigging up + & - connections to the ICV terminals & adj. valve with motor running to set a better idle as it all warmed up. When using throttle in various ICV positions there still wasnt a real improvement to the overfuelling & in gear it was still struggling.I still believe the ICV is not being controlled by the cars system & cannot detect it clicking etc when engine turned off. I am trying to get a mobile electrician/fault finder to come to me & at the same time source/borrow an ECU to see if mines at fault. Any one got one for an n/a auto ??

Did what you suggested Ian & used the int diag. port & hey presto got blinking mil & overdrive off light (till I pressed o/d switch). BUT... it has gone a/f again , having spent the last hour observing the mil . The car was cold when I checked & the ecu would be clear cos I havent started engine since reconnecting ecu last night hence consistant mil flashing till it started to go erratic after ign. on for a while (10 mins or more). whilst it was seemingly ok . when I turned ign off then on the mil wouldnt start blinking for a while (on continuously)but the delay time was not consistant , say 15 to 45 secs not in any pattern. As time went on turning ign on to activate warning lights (which all work by the way) the mil became progresively erratic, blinking oddly at times & eventually staying on all the time every time. Seems once elec circuits warmed up no signal produced. All the other times I"ve done the error check was when the car had been run so thats why no blinking mil probably. Not started the car today yet cos no point til I can work out if ecu or else is a.f. Its running vey rich & rough (overfuelled ) so I am not happy about driving it to a garage for reasons you know.If diagnostics come to me they may not get a reading (unless car is cold perhaps it now seems). Spent 4 days checking everything I could but like many I am not a whiz kid with elecs & ecu"s etc. Had the car nearly 10 years so I know its history but do expect that things must go wrong with age (much like me!). Thinking that if I could try another known good ecu that might be the next move . By the way Ian , although I dont post alot on here i read a lot of the forum content & always think that it is a few very very knowlegeable people that dedicate much of their time that are the backbone of this club.You especially on the tech side.

Been working on the car Ian so just got your reply/question. I short cicuit E1 & Te1 in the diagnostics port with my trusty paper clip. Turn on ign. toturn 2 (the one before start up & where the other warning lights are also on.) Turn off the immobiliser and watch the orange mil light (next to abs,oil etc lights) Done this a few times in the past ie for the code 42 fix. Usually if no error codes stored the mil blinks consistently. Now however it stays on all the time. Taken the ECU out just now having never seen it before & all looked like new in & out.

MIL and red warning lights are on and got bad overfuelling. Tried the usual error code check but the MIL (orange warning light) stays on permanently. It therefore is not able to show me any error codes. Have pulled the fuses to clear the ecu etc. Does this indicate that the ecu is faulty & that a proper scan test will also produce no info? Anyone else ever had this problem

John, just read the above posts & wondered if you sorted the problem out. I"ve got bad overfuelling probs at the moment & trying to locate the fault. Where is the MAF sensor on an n/a mentioned by Ian above? Glenn.

Bump..... Is There Anybody Out There?

I certainly do & I bet a lot of you guys are the same. Spent 2 nights searching for info & so far 2 days bending over the car checking & taking things apart. No wonder I"ve got a headache & backache but cant sleep till she"s fixed. There are dozens of permutations of what it could be so I will spare you all the detail & for now ask a couple of specific questions to help me onwards & hopefully lay some fears to rest. Its a 94 n/a auto thats (now) idling at 1800 rpm when hot & misfiring with mil & red warning lights on but showing no error codes (mil light on continuously during code check).Mil warning started doing this intermitently for a few seconds after start up 2 weeks ago then cleared to run perfectly ok but last Sunday it didnt resolve itself & got worse so can only pull away in 1st gear. Seems like in D it is pulling away in top gear to little avail. 1st Q... how do I check the signal/supply to the idle control valve (valve works off car when voltage applied but I think its not adjusting on warm up on the car hence rich idling). 2nd Q... would the auto box play up if something wrong with the fueling or whatever engine/sensor faults may be confusing the ECU ? I"m hoping if the engine prob is sorted then the gear box will return to normal. ( just like I will ) Any experience/knowledge on these 2 points would be much appreciated . thanks , Glenn.

Yes he certainly didn"t mention it to me. Must have been gagging to say something to us on wednesday. Looking 4ward to seeing what you got for your money. May tempt me to trying a facelift tt.

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR BIRTHDAY WISHES :cool Yep , such alot of you share my birthdate, Well the 11th June but thankfully for you NOT the year (1949) Started my celebrations yesterday after a long sail boat race in lovely weather conditions (cant say the same for todays gloomy skies). Just recovered from my hangover sufficient to go have a few more pints this evening with lots of my friends. Any excuse eh? Cheers to you all.

Did you find any fault codes Faye? Interested to know.

Heres the diagramme for the code 42 fix http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=49509&d=1167958077 I havent got time at the mo to look up the link on what to do exactly but if you do a search it should be easy to find. It involves getting to the connections behind the odo section on the top left side of the dash & cutting & splicing 2 wires. Just 5 screws to undo to clip out the top dash unit & find what your looking for.

Hi Faye, Sorry to hear you got problems. These intermitant faults are a bugger. I had roughly similar symptoms with my n/a auto 6 months ago. Ie non smooth gear changes that got more frequent as well as other code 42 symptoms. Mine wasnt delimited or anything but the code 42 fix did the trick.Been fine ever since except for a totally different intermittant fault I now have. Are any fault codes comming up? Glenn.

Thanks mate, kind of you to offer & I may well be taking you up on that. Would you believe it (yes we all would cos intermitant faults are like that & the hardest to trace) started her up the next morning expecting to malfunction once hot but it didnt. Then cautiously drove around locally for 1/2 hour or so (twice) & she was fine . I know the problem will occur again so was hoping it would go wrong so I or an electrician can diagnose & fix it. Bummer! It had been wet prior to prob. so now its started raining I will be driving around locally to see what happens. Still dont know of a good mechanic/ sparky with diagnostics though to call on when fault re occurs & I need to have one lined up. Got any phone nos. of the other local supra chaps in case they can recommend one? My no is 0781 3946959. cheers , Glenn.

Help needed in Southend to find a good fault finder with diagnostics reader for my N/A supra. Broke down last night between St. Osyth & Colchester.Recovery brought me home to Thorpe Bay. When engine warms up after about 10 mins. the mil warning light comes on when misfiring occurs & engine cuts out soon after.Checked the usual connections, car starts up/ runs fine but soon cuts out again . Let it cool ,starts/fires fine then when warm cuts out. Seems to be electrical or a sensor but theres no error codes coming up to narrow it down. Does this mean that no error codes would come up on a proper diagnostics test or are they more sensitive? If so I am happy to pay an experienced elec/garage to sort this out but dont know of a reliable one nearby or preferably mobile as cant risk driving more than a mile or so. Local members (supraloopy etc) can you lend me an igniter to check mine & recommend anyone? cheers ,Glenn.

Parked in the warehouse compound this evening 6.30 ish. Probably working there ???

No it wasn"t.... it was me....Glenn Stoneham. Often seen in front of Thorpe Bay Yacht Club cos my boat"s there. I saw Fat Controller passing by on Sunday in his nice new orange tt.

The MOT expired in Jan. 07 !! Is that right??

Don"t do it unless you want to look ........dare I say it .....a bit ........common. They look awfull when they get old & faded.I know quite a few guys & even more women that regret having tatoos done 5 or so years ago . If they self destruct after a few years then thats a different senario.Piercings can be removed & heal over. I"m assuming this is your 1st.

For most of us the warning lights start to come on, usually intermitantly , often when accelerating hard and at a certain speed sfor some about 60 ish MPH but other times as well. In response we start reading any fault codes that come up . see this http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=35920 The common one is code 42 & it seems this is usually not a speed sensor problem as such but an interupted signal in the odometer circuit.