garethr

Forgot to add that the Toyota EPC shows exactly the same part number for the 1/2JZ and 7M oil filters.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-LEXUS-IS200-OIL-FILTER-90915-20003-/261155495971?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ALexus&hash=item3cce14a023 The legendary Japanese-made OEM filter. and its replacement http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-TOYOTA-SUPRA-TURBO-UK-SPEC-1993-1996-OIL-FILTER-/360581905093?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53f45b3ac5

Jolly Green Giant Subaru - PH thread

It's the twin-turbo 3.3 litre six, isn't it? There's a build thread on PistonHeads.

Apparently owned by the bloke who founded the Foxtons estate agency and sold it for £370m.

Definitely. This thread even has a picture >> http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?61141-How-To-Refurbish-coil-pack-connectors Although the dealer is also correct to say that it's used for the stoplight (on a Land Cruiser, for example).

The pump in the gearbox still works when the box is in park or neutral. The only problem is that it can get a bit expensive. There's a video on YouTube of a Soarer TT flush that took 22 litres of Type IV before it came out red rather than dirty brown. EDIT. Thinking about it, I suppose it would be better to leave the cooler inlet pipe connected, disconnect the cooler outlet, and put put a pipe on the outlet, so that the cooler is flushed as well.

Not needed. You just disconnect the appropriate hose from the transmission cooler, direct it to a container, run the car until a litre or two of fluid has been pumped out, pour the same amount of new fluid in from the top, then repeat until the new clean fluid is coming out.

Found this for the Soarer Bottom left - 90461‑08202? Edit - sorry, it's not that one, reverse search says it's 90461‑08202 (CLAMP(FOR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER))

Mintex discs and pads for £90 work well if you're on a budget http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330359019385 CW fast road pads will undoubtedly work better if you are a driver who hammers the brakes. When you're in there, strip, clean, and grease the sliders.

The fact is that the number of problems caused by modified cars and bikes is very small. Of course, that won't stop some politician or bureaucrat bringing up the "danger" every few years. You really need to be careful what you wish for, though. Just ask any Aussie what it's like dealing with a system that tries to control modified vehicles.

IIRC it was a Thai company called KS Racing selling the replicas on US eBay.

Chavs? Look again.

and I thought the Hella/PIAA horns were expensive (and FIAMM... forgot them).

A few to tag on to, perhaps? If there's a white Soarer around, that's me. Costswold Airport (Kemble) cafe last Sunday of the month (access from the A433 Tetbury to Cirencester road) http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=114&t=1144187&i=280&mid=&nmt= Queen's Square, Bristol second Sunday of the month http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=114&t=785879&mid=35934&i=0&nmt=Classics+in+Queen+Square&mid=35934 New one - Berkeley, first Sunday of the month http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=114&t=1242798&mid=35934&nmt=North%2C+SouthWestPH+3rd+Feb+Meet I think there's another regular PH meet down Exeter way as well.

New, I'd probably go for a pair of Hella or PIAA horns. Cheaper versions are available. Used - down the scrappy for BMW or Mercedes Hellas. They should be marked high/low, or in hertz. Take some cable and you can check that they work before you leave. Not sure if the standard wiring uses a relay, but it wouldn't hurt to use another one. EDIT: http://cat.hella.com/hella-nafta/jsp/search/advanced/Frameset_ButtonBar_Bottom.jsp?nologin=yes&selectedObject=CS@Hella-USA@CT@F04 http://www.piaa.co.uk/lamps/lampshow.asp?ID=horn

Possible confusion with the MkIII? I believe that the MA70 does have a separate transmission ECU.

Unless anyone makes shell bearings to repair Supra heads, the only option would be TIG welding and line boring.

All I know is that other countries make it much more difficult, if not impossible to, register heavily modified cars - engine swaps, for example. Based on this article by Dale Lomas, it doesn't seem as if there is much chance of registering a Japanese grey import with an engine swap. http://www.bridgetogantry.com/2/index.php/projectrx81/projectrx8/420-how-i-put-my-uk-track-car-on-to-german-plates How I put my UK track car on to German plates ...An example of a bad car to try and import would be a Mitsubishi Evo VIII FQ-something. This is actually a Japanese model imported to the UK and not available across Europe (it has no European type approval number). Another bad example would be ANY modified car. All modifications to a German car must be backed up by paperwork that simply doesn't exist for most UK parts, and single-part approvals for each eBay or home-made part get pricey really quickly...

Breaker bar and a wall-drive socket? Wall-drive ring spanner?

Are you making an adaptor plate to join the gearbox to the bellhousing? Is the Quaife gearbox shaft long enough? The adaptor can deal with extra length, but if it's too short for the bellhousing + adaptor... You can use the same flywheel/pressure plate, as long as it fits in the bellhousing, but does your current clutch plate fit the splines on the Quaife? How will you operate the clutch? If you use the same clutch you'll either need the V160 bellhousing and release mechanism or you'll have to use a concentric hydraulic release bearing. If you use the concentric release you could use any bellhousing, even one off an auto.

Calculator http://powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi IIRC, the standard sizes are 235/45-17, 255/40-17.

Doesn't anyone make a proper gaiter kit for coilovers? If you had something like the top shroud on these bike suspension units http://www.chopperresource.co.uk/my_uploads/products/hagonroadclassic1.jpg and a gaiter like these for MX bike forks it would protect the threads. It doesn't take much to mess up a fine thread in alloy.

Some confusion in that link... illustration of the "UK" pads that need 17 inch wheels, and text that mentions the 16 inch wheels that only fit with "J-spec" calipers. Probably just the wrong pic, since they also list http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/2306/toyota/black-diamond-rear-brake-pads/pp425.html for 17 inch wheels, but you'd need to double check. The picture in the original post shows a "J-spec" single piston sliding rear caliper.

I guess an Aristo brace shows you what Mr T thinks.