garethr

2JZ-GEs are worth nothing because they are so good that they never break, so nobody ever needs a replacement. Sounds like the 'box is the same as the V8 Soarer 'box. I think the extra solenoid might be used to make the gearchanges smoother. EDIT: It might be possible to disconnect it. Check the Club Lexus SC400 forum for the "4th solenoid mod". There isn't really any tuning information for the GE other than "stick a turbo on it"...

People outside the Supra world seem to like Jay's build as well http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1349287&mid=35934&nmt=1000+hp+T62+SRD+Supra+Build

I can't find anything that says you have to have a UK licence in order to insure a car, but I guess an insurance company can impose any restriction it wants to. It would be worth telephoning again to make sure that they understand that you have an EU licence that is valid (until you're 70) in the UK.

I don't know how insurance companies treat licences from other EU countries, but my understanding is that an EU licence is valid in the UK until age 70, just like a UK licence. Is it even possible to exchange a Greek licence for a UK licence? Exchange licences are for places like the Channel Islands, or non-EU countries that have reciprocal deals with the UK. EDIT: Apparently it is possible to exchange an EU licence for a UK licence >>>> https://www.gov.uk/exchange-a-foreign-driving-licence Exchange a foreign driving licence 1) Are you a resident of Great Britain? -- Yes 2) What kind of licence do you have? -- Car or motorcycle 3) Where was your licence issued? -- European Union You can drive in Great Britain on a full, valid driving licence from another EU country until you’re 70, or for 3 years after becoming resident in Great Britain, whichever is longer. You don’t have to exchange your licence, but follow these steps if you want to. Order form D1 from DVLA. Send the form, the £50 fee and any documents you need to (including your driving licence) to the address on the form. You should get your new licence within 3 weeks. You can only drive in Great Britain for 12 months if you got your EU licence by exchanging your non-EU licence.

The VVTi wasted spark coils use the same connectors. Only 3, of course. The Toyota part number is 90980-11246.

That would be £60k+ in the UK. If they can charge £11k for the IQ...

It doesn't matter what engine it has, it won't be "easy" to tune, at least by Supra standards. We've been spoiled by the JZs. You'll never see another engine that is over-engineered to that degree. Every part of it will be finite element analysed to death to do the job it needs to do and no more. I suppose the 5.0 V8 from the IS/RC has to be favourite (actually, some sort of naff hybrid attempt to placate the bloody greens is probably favourite ). EDIT: It does look mental enough to have been designed at TVR, though.

I followed your thread on the Mk3 forum where this all began. Glad to see that all the research and planning ended up with a successful 2-day conversion. Very impressive!

1UZ (4.0) and 3UZ (4.3) are all alloy. 2UZ (4.7) is iron block. Not if you are replacing the rods. Just for info: They have been known to do this under boost: As well as the forums mentioned, there are a few build threads on the Soarer Central forum, and also on Club Lexus, I think. Obviously on Soarers and SCs, but the principle is the same. The quick and dirty way to a turbo manifold is to start by reversing the standard exhaust manifolds to point forwards.

Looks like "SUPPLY" is to maintain the battery when you're not using the car. http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/page/support/manuals NORMAL 14–225Ah Normal battery program 14.4V/7A. Use for WET batteries, Ca/Ca, MF, and for most GEL batteries +5°C to +50°C (41ºF to 122ºF) AGM 14–225Ah AGM battery program 14.7V/7A Use for AGM batteries. -20°C to +5°C (-4ºF to 41ºF) RECOND 14–225Ah Recond program 15.8V/1.5A Use to return energy to the empty WET and Ca/Ca batteries. Recond your battery once per year and after deep discharge to maximise lifetime and capacity. The Recond program adds the Recond step to the normal battery program. Frequent use of the Recond program may cause water loss in the batteries and reduce service life of electronics. Contact your vehicle and battery supplier for advice. -20°C to +50°C (-4ºF to 122ºF) SUPPLY 14–225Ah Supply program 13.6V/7A Use as 12V power supply or use for float maintenance charging when 100% capacity of the battery is required. Supply program activates. Float step without time or voltage limitation.

What you are trying to do is match the wires from the Soarer ECU to the body loom of the Supra, so at the very least you'll need the ECU pin outs for the two cars. IIRC there was some pretty detailed wiring information for a UZZ31 engine into JZA80 conversion on v-eight.com (or possibly Toymods). .

Any plans for a sort of "pass through" option that will leave control with the Toyota ECU? In other words, options of "manual", custom auto map(s), or do nothing - leave it to Toyota.

1995 toyota supra (jza80r-alfvzw) eur lb rhd 2jzgte mtm 6f shim kit, anti squeal, front 04945-14110 shim kit, anti squeal (for rear disc brake) 04946-14030

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?42029-Fog-light-conversion-improved-wiring http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?80479-Fog-Light-Conversions-for-beginners http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?253183-Rear-Fog-light-PCB

It was up for $82,000 about 12 months ago, and that was a lot less than it's cost... There's a long thread on Supraforums about the 2-year Sound Performance rebuild.

Buy N/A auto hardtop, swap drivetrain and all nice bits, sell N/A auto aerotop? That way you keep everything except the paint.

Probably wouldn't matter since you'd want to strip it to change the rods (and the sump) anyway.

The Australian Ford Ka forum is probably your best bet -- http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=78

Check prices. A set of ARP bolts from Whifbitz might be cheaper than a set from Mr T.

Same part according to the EPC: Soarer 1JZ-GTE / R154 flywheel to crank bolts 90910-02103 (8) Supra 2JZ-GE / W58 flywheel to crank bolts 90910-02103 (8)

This is interesting. Perhaps the problem is that it's not possible to do a good job without specialized equipment (which nobody in the UK has because chromed wheels just don't work in our climate ) http://www.chromerestorationspecialist.co.uk/faq/ Is it triple plated? Yes, parts are copper primed before nickel and chrome plating. In some cases we use a duplex nickel process. Can you chrome on alloy? Yes. Aluminium is a difficult material to chrome. If it has been previously chromed and is peeling it can be even more difficult. It may be worth considering having it in polished aluminium. It can look just like chrome, but without the hassle! Do you chrome alloy wheels? No, the reason is they need to be plated on special jigs. These jigs allow the chrome to plate evenly, so you have an even deposit from the outside edge of the rim through to the centre. Without this you would have a high build up on the outside edge and on thickness in the centre. This creates a problem because the edge will be susceptible to cracking if touched by a tyre lever or kerb and the centres will corrode very quickly.

Engine goes straght in using the Supra mounts, flywheel, clutch. The tricky part is wiring the Soarer ECU into the Suipra harness. Also need to modify the ECU harness (neutral start switch) so that the ECU thinks that the auto box us in neutral.

Try some proper penetrating fluid, like Plus Gas. Tighten the nuts until the studs shear and sort it when the engine is out. Grinder. Nut splitter.

Pistonheads: TOYOTA SUPRA MK IV CELEBRATES 20 YEARS http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=28356 http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=23&t=1324516&nmt=RE%3A+Toyota+Supra+Mk+IV+celebrates+20+years#topicTop

and they always drive nose to tail, so you can't even pick them off one by one.