garethr
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Everything posted by garethr
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Would the VVTi 2JZ head work on a 1JZ bottom end? The reason I ask is that VVTi / single turbo made a huge difference to the 1JZ (same torque at half the revs), but (IIRC) it doesn't have such a marked effect on the 2JZ. Interesting project though, I doubt that anyone else has put a 2JZ VVTi head on a 1JZ-GTE block.
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I think the plugs are the same, i.e VVTi Aristo > VVTi Supra and non-VVTi Aristo > non-VVTi Supra. However, there are subtle differences, e.g one uses switched earth for aircon and the other uses switched live, so you need to incorporate a relay in the circuit (can't remember which is which, but the info is on Club Aristo). Moot point anyway, because, as already pointed out, a 1999 Aristo would be VVTi.
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You don't get to fit small plates just because it's an import. The regs say you can use a small plate if the bodywork design means you cannot fit a standard plate. There's nothing about the front of a Supra that stops you fitting a standard plate.
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Front: GS300 Mk1 GS300/GS400/GS430 Mk2 IS200 IS300 and the middle version of the LS400, I think (small brakes on the early ones, bigger 4-pots on the later ones) Rear: GS300 Mk1 OE pads may have different part nos for different compounds.
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servicing - Recommend me a oil filter and SST
garethr replied to SupraStar 3000's topic in mkiv Technical
I think the "Special Service Tool" is just an oil filter cup wrench. IIRC, mine is made by Laser Tools. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?303380-Oil-filter-removal&p=3820883&viewfull=1#post3820883 It makes removing the filter much easier (at least it does on the Soarer, Aristo, and GS300). -
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CTEK MXS 5.0, because I can use it on the bikes as well as on the cars.
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DIN socket in the dash connected to the battery (with an inline fuse at the battery end) and a matching DIN plug connected to the charger. Or rewire the cigarette lighter socket so that it's always live and plug the charger into it. What charger do you use? CTEK sell a little panel with a socket and battery condition indicator LEDs. You could probably use it with any charger and a suitable plug. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/switches/12vacc.php http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/accessories/
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Google says that EBC DP2608/2 are for a Mk3 Supra. Also, http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com (I think this is a retailer, rather than the manufacturer) lists DP3608/2C (red) and DP4608/2R (yellow) as rear pads for the Mk3, which suggests that the first number is 2/3/4 for green/red/yellow.
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The EBC pads look like they might be for a Mk3 Supra. I there a part number on them? I can only make out the AF number, which, I think, is the compound.
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I wouldn't have thought a cooler would make much difference. It's the torque (and driving style?) that breaks the W58. There a reason that Toyota didn't use it on turbo engines (except the largely torque-free 1G-GTE).
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The chamfer makes it easier to locate the wheel on the hub spigot.
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There's a Top Gear video on Youtube in which a GS300 (J-spec fronts) comfortably outbrakes a contemporary 911 from 70mph. It might be different on a track, but for road use, there's nothing wrong with J-spec brakes and decent pads (except the sliders ).
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Thermostat? Viscous fan coupling? Definitely something wrong. I've had the Soarer (admittedly a 1JZ) ticking over for, literally, a couple of hours to provide work lights without the temperature gauge reaching any higher than normal.
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The awkward part will be wiring the Soarer ECU to work with the Supra loom, and possibly the prop shaft. A few people have done the conversion, so neither wiring nor prop shaft should be much of a problem. Assuming you're swapping the 1JZ into an N/A, either 'box would probably be OK for strength, although I suppose the Soarer 'box might be stronger (not sure if anyone knows for sure). If you want to use a Supra TT box (which is definitely stronger) you'll have to make a hybrid using the Soarer (or NA) valve body.
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Brake caliper banjo screw thread rounded
garethr replied to Crash Bandicoot's topic in mkiv Technical
That's a Mitsubishi GTO caliper. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231204900273 -
That's what I didn't understand. If it's the bellhousing, clutch arm, and slave cylinder for the R154, surely it has to be operating correctly for a pull clutch?
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They are, but this is the R154, not the W58. The R154 is definitely pull-type. To use the R154 you need a 1JZ flywheel and a 1JZ or Mk3 Supra turbo clutch. Would it be possible to convert to a push-type and keep the R154 actuating arm etc? EDIT: http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/596-guide-fitting-a-clutch-on-the-7mgte-r154/
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You'll find a few familiar names on here!
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An engine swap makes no differnce to the current MOT, and even if it did, the emissions test is based on whichever is older, chassis or engine, so a different engine doen't matter.
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The DVLA are only interested in the engine number and capacity. They don't care what's bolted to it. The engine number is under the inlet manifold, but most imports don't have it in the registration document because it's impossible to see it when the engine is in the car. Remember that the MOT emissions test is based on whichever is older, chassis or engine, so if you can prove that the TT engine is old enough you avoid the cat test, even on a late car.
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Nod? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?300987-Nodalmighty
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WD40 isn't that good as a penetrating fluid. Something like Plus Gas would work better.
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Remember that stainless threads should always be lubricated (Google stainless galling), and don't do them up too tight if they aren't holding heavily stressed components (stainless should never be substituted for high-tensile steel anyway). EDIT: and stainless is a sod to drill
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The rears won't be an upgrade. They may be a downgrade, some sources say the pistons are smaller in diameter than the Supra's.
