garethr

I can see the point of the compound system, and I can understand the reasons for a Mk4 Supra type sequential system where the second turbo is bigger than the first turbo, but the 1JZ has parallel turbos, and, other than a compound system, I don't see how two different sized turbos could work.

Everything else being equal (pad material, disc material, master cylinder, driver, tyres) the variables are the caliper piston area (one side of the caliper only), and the effective diameter of the disc (without a load of maths, call it the middle of the pad), so 4-opposed piston calipers are not necessarily any more powerful than 2-piston sliding calipers. The dimensions I have are: J-spec - Piston Diameter 44.4mm / Disc Diameter 296mm LS400 - Piston Diameter 42.8mm or 43.0mm (sources differ) / Disc Diameter 315mm UK Piston Diameter - 42.8mm / Disc Diameter 323mm There is a kit for the Lexius IS300 (same calipers as J-Spec) that spaces the calipers out to fit a UK disc. I suppose that would, theoretically, be "better" than UK brakes. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?225007-Big-Brake-Kits-Real-Numbers

Even that Turbosmart boost controller can switch a relay based on boost/RPM.

UK cars are invariably rusty, and the 7M engine is the reason that the JZs are so good. A manual JZA70, in the other hand....

I'd hazard a guess that most manual 1UZs (certainly those in Australian Soarers ) use the W58. IIRC, early Soarer V8s are c. 255bhp, later ones are a little more, around 260, and the VVTi engines are 290ish. It's academic though, because you are unlikely to find anything other than the early version, and you probably want an early early version (pre '93?) because the rods are stronger.

I'm impressed, that's a lot of work, not to mention the effort of finding someone in Japan to do the custom fabrication.

KS Racing have been mentioned. CRS and Dellow in Australia have supplied bellhousing kits that use the standard clutch release for years. Bullet Cars in Australia sell a kit. Don't know if it's their own or if they re-sell CRS or Dellow. Quantum Auto in the US do a kit - http://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/422578-ultimate-1uzfe-w58-conversion-thread-lots-of-pics.html You can buy a CAD file from v-eight.com for an adaptor that uses the 1UZ-FE auto bellhousing. It would need a concentric hydraulic bearing release like the Quantum kit. (This bloke used the R154 CAD file and had to tweak it a bit - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1095810&mid=35934&nmt=1st+Real+Project%3A+E30+BMW+4.0+V8.) H7ERO on here made his own. I think there's a DIY how to on Lextreme. I've also seen bellhousings and adaptors for sale on www.trademe.co.nz EDIT: This may be useful >>> http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29128 (found by Beezer on Soarer World).

Soarer TT brakes are the same as Supra "J-specs". I know that Supra shock/springs (together) fit a Soarer because that's what's on my auto, but unless you buy a Soarer with aftermarket units they are probably worn out, and they might not sit quite right. Coilovers on a Soarer are probably Supra units anyway. Don't quote me, but I have a feeling that the front ARBs swap, but not the rears because the rear subframes are different, though interchangeable. No point though, because the Soarer is a "softer" car than the Supra. Which reminds me... doesn't the N/A have a "missing" subframe mount? Front control arms swap, although, again, the Soarer bushes seem to be more compliant (and they are usually stuffed). Rear arms (most, anyway) are different, I believe. I'd have thought that anyone who is half-competent with a spanner could swap an auto 1JZ into a manual N/A Supra. It's just nuts and bolts. Wiring and plumbing are the awkward areas.

He never got very far with the idea - like I said, he already has a small scrap yard on his drive - but the idea was to sell the MR2 engine to offset the cost of the Camry. I think he works with someone who had a 4AGE in an Escort. The V6 possibly makes more sense for the MK1, I guess, since V6 or turbo it's still a conversion. For a Mk2 it does seem that it would be a lot easier to just buy a turbo car and avoid the risk of a stalled project.

I saw a post somewhere (perhaps the "public" area of TwoBrutal), about trying to find a 2GR in the UK, that said he'd been quoted up to £8,000. I think it only comes with a Lexus badge over here, so they probably attract luxury car tax. I don't understand why, though, unless there's demand from kit car builders or something, because it's unlikely that anyone ever needs a replacement (unless Mr T's standards have plummeted recently). I think there is also a 2GR build in the Readers' Cars section on PistonHeads.

At least it should be no worse than the standard turbo - Renegade reckon the LS1 is lighter. Might even be better, or at least more predictable. It's a very neat conversion, though.

That's exactly how it looked to us, but as Carl's car is a Mk1 the V6 would be more than enough to be dangerous. There was apparently a TRD supercharger kit for the 3VZ, but you'd have to find a used one in the US. Woodsport sell an engine mount for DIY, you can use the N/A gearbox and a modified turbo flywheel, then all you need is a 3-litre Camry, a soldering iron, and someone to weld an exhaust together. Actually, if that PH thread is to be believed, it does look fairly simple, and they reckoned they did it for 500 quid net. That definitely piqued my brother's interest, because the 4AGE must be worth a bit these days (and he knows a few rally boys from up the valleys).

IIRC, it's common for there to be a covenant that, for example, caravans can't be parked in front of the building line (basically the front wall of the house). Covenants on private estates apparently don't mean much as the developer usually doesn't care once all the houses are sold, but it might well be different with former council property.

The "drive in, drive out" prices are on their web site. I found this DIY thread (in South Wales as it happens) on Pistonheads when my brother (also in S. Wales ) was considering doing his Mk1. I guess there are more on TwoBrutal, but never got around to signing up because he decided he had too much to do already, starting with restoring the Mini that's been on his drive for 3 years.

Can a cooler be too big, or does it not matter if there is a thermostat operated bypass?

"Sustec Super H" , so Tanabe. (Yes. I know, the pics weren't up then. ) But what I really wanted to know is how "Super H" relates to GF210/DF210/NF21, which seem to be the current names for Tanabe springs. I need something for my manual Soarer that doesn't make my teeth rattle - those Japanese roads must be really smooth. Tanabe seem to offer various spring rates

The IS 300 was sold in the UK, auto only (the Americans got a manual with a w5something). No distributor because it's the VVTi engine that runs wasted spark. Weaker rods than the non-VVTi 2JZ-GE.

I'm convinced that corvids have a sense of humour. I once watched a magpie entice a cat into the topmost branches of a tree, then fly to the lower branches of the next tree, wait for the cat to climb down, then start the whole process again. Black and grey crows like to divide and rule. KsoxN05lP7I but sometimes the cat wins wq4tyrj1H3Q

No demand = no value, unfortunately. Now if Toyota had designed and built a crap engine that broke all the time you'd be quids in, but who ever needed to replace a 2JZ-GE?

You would need the TT head as well as the manifolds. Also, when the block was intended for a TT it was fitted with oil squirters to cool the pistons, although they could be added to the N/A block, I believe.

Even more impressive... during an exercise in the mid 80s a Royal Ar Force Lightning intercepted a U2 at 88,000 feet (although, IIRC, the Lightning could not actually fly - as in maintain level flight - at that altitude).

True, plenty of examples of the 20-series Soarer and 70- and 80-series Chaser/Cresta/Mark II down under, as well as the Mk3 Supra.

If the Aussies are to be believed, you can have quite a lot of poke if you want.

Screw PVC pipe to the wall with the screw head inside the pipe (multiple rows if you want), and then fit the lagging over the pipe? Would keep the screw heads away from your paint, [Grand Designs]and would provide a decorative accent in the vehicle storage space.[/Grand Designs]