garethr

There is a 2GR-FE group buy on twobrutal (& Gouky's stuff, I think), and a Mk3 2GR-FE build thread.

How about somewhere like this - http://www.boltsnutsscrewsonline.com ? The difficulty is finding suppliers who don't either require industrial-sized minimum orders or charge a fortune because they are selling shiny stuff to enthusiasts.

Double post.

It depends where the screws are. A lot of them are screwed into captive nuts in the shell, so the exposed end of the thread rusts, then when you try to unscrew it... Not much you can do except remove them all and copper grease them before they corrode too much, or, if you can be bothered, get at the underside and clean and lubricate the exposed threads before applying the spanner. Oh, and buy some proper penetrating fluid like Plus Gas, WD-40 is no use for freeing properly rusted threads.

It's not kickdown, it's the autobox line pressure cable. I believe the Supra Mk3 turbo (7M-GTE + R154) clutch fits.

No, because the ratio is important, not the number of teeth. If you change from 16 to 14. then 14 is 14/16 (14 sixteenths) of 16. This means that the new rear sprocket would have to be 14/16 of the old rear sprocket. 14/16 of 59 is 51 or 52 (actually 51.63, but you can't have .63 of a tooth ).

Pics...... can't display them in the post for some reason Like the colour. http://s12.postimage.org/k20yb3kwb/2012_01_07_11_08_40222222.jpg http://s16.postimage.org/bk0goa7ro/2012_01_07_11_11_1722222.jpg http://s17.postimage.org/i6fbc3pi6/2012_01_07_11_09_342222.jpg

IIRC 14T is about the limit. Space or availability could make 14/51 a better option than 16/59.

I reckon you'll need a 59T rear sprocket. If the R1 is geared for 180 at 11070 on 16/43: with standard 16/43 sprockets the buggy will do 180 X 624.8 / 640 mph at 11070 rpm = c. 176 with 16/59 sprockets the buggy will do 176 X (16/59) / (16/43) mph at 11070 rpm = c. 128

You'll need to know the number of teeth on the R1 gearbox sprocket (I think most bikes are 15), the red line on the tacho, and the diameter of the tyres. What does 25 x 12.50-12 mean? Is it diameter (25") x width (12.50") - rim size (12")?

The 1JZ clutch cover bolts (90119‑08302) are the same as the bottom cambelt pulley bolt on a 7M, so you should have no problem ordering them from your local Toyota dealer.

Front suspension arms are interchangeable. The front crossmembers are actually the same part numbers. If you want to use Supra rear suspension arms I believe you need to use the Supra subframe. I reckon most suppliiers probably give you their Supra coilovers for a Soarer . The standard suspension will swap, but you must keep the matching dampers and springs. I didn't measure the before and after, but my Soarer on Supra suspension seems to be lower at the rear and about the same at the front. Supra brakes and wheels fit. I think Supra seats fit. There are a lot of common parts because the Supra is an Aristo engine in a Soarer chassis.

Thank you. Bookmarked so that next time she complains about my cars (and bikes) I can say "It could be worse, look at this!".

There is a lot of info on my.is, although the Americans are more likely to start with an IS300 (and they have a manual version). Actually, I'm not sure if the IS200 was ever sold over there.

http://www.flyinmiata.com/projects/LS1/index.php?start=61 As you may remember, we weighed the car when we started this project. At that time, it was 2349 lbs with 51.4% of the weight on the front wheels. That's with a naturally aspirated engine, no turbo. Now, we're at 2536 with 52.6% on the front. We have added slightly heavier wheels (4 lbs total) and the front sway bar isn't installed yet (10 lbs). But the car's gained less than 200 lbs, 62 of which ended up on the rear wheels. I guess the Mazda has an iron block.

This (from the unpublished, except on a blog, autobiography of Roland Pike, who developed the Gold Star clubman racer for BSA) is about a bike engine about 60 years ago, but it illustrates what vibration can do (and why sharp edges are bad). Whilst working at BSA Dennis Lashmar carried on racing my old 'Pike BSA' with the alloy twin engine. I think he had one good win on a wet day at Snetterton, when it ran cool enough not to blow up. Latterly whenever we went to Silverstone or anywhere to watch him, he finished up sliding along on his backside at about 100mph with a broken crankshaft. This was too dangerous, I considered. Once, just after the massed start at Silverstone, with the pack all bunched up and approaching Woodcote corner at over 100mph, the engine suddenly seized and he was sliding along with bikes all round him! I told Mr Hopwood that if we could not do something about the crankshaft breakages we should drop the racing twin. He pointed out that as far as Lashmar was concerned it was his own bike and he could do what he liked with it, but the policy of the factory was to make a twin. I felt we should make a new crank for it to which he agreed and wanted to know if I had any suggestions. By this time Group Research were in the picture at BSA and they demonstrated to me in ten minutes what I had suspected for years. They came up with some very good ideas. One was that the crank needed larger crankpin journals which would make it stiffer and get away from the frequency at which it now vibrated. Mr Hopwood agreed that their suggestions were fine for 1955 but at that time we had to use what we had. He was interested to know if any other suggestions and Group Research said to put a rolled radius around the ends of each crankpin. They demonstrated by putting a standard crankshaft on vee blocks over the top of the electro-magnetic vibrator they had built. They started some sort of motor generator. The noise was like standing next to a jet engine at the airport, it went into a scream and from a scream to an outer pitch sound, on to another phase even higher, then they brought in the electro-magnetic vibrator and the whole place began to buzz. The frequency of the vibrator was adjusted to a multiple of 6,600, the crank vibrated with a high speed buzz, inside ten minutes there was a loud bang, the crank fell in two parts, broken at the usual point, showing the same sort of fracture that we had experienced after three hours running at 6600 RPM. It was a much quicker way of testing a crankshaft and without wrecking an engine. Next they set up one of their special cranks, with the rolled fillet radius on the crankpin, it was subjected to the same test, buzzing away on the vee blocks, ten minutes passed, thirty minutes and it was still in one piece. I got tired of waiting and asked to be informed when it broke. It did not break and after one hour it was still good. I was very impressed and so was Mr Hopwood, but the factory again did not seem interested, perhaps they could not believe it. This rolling process consisted of applying a ball ended tool to the radius under high pressure in a big lathe. A few cranks were made, some for research, some for use on the dyno. It seemed fantastic that this simple process could make such a difference. Many years later, when I was working for Volkswagen in the USA, I discovered that they cured a rash of broken crankshafts on the 1965 truck engine by the same procedure, except that they did not use a ball, but a small roller, to form the radius.

[wildlife pedant mode]If it had a burrow it wasn't a hare. [/wildlife pedant mode] On the other hand, if it was a hare, that is very impressive (actually, it's quite impressive if it was a rabbit).

Looks cheap next to this Twin-Cam, though

a In the EPC, Toyota differentiate the parts by saying that they are for 17-inch wheels. Perhaps that would be the way to go.

General opinion is that Mr T's engineers probably know what they're doing, so it's not worth the risk. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsional_vibration#Crankshaft_torsional_vibration

The internet (always trustworthy ) says that the LS400 calipers have smaller pistons than the Supra calipers, which would make them less powerful. If that's the case, a GS300 or a Soarer TT would be a better choice for replacements, I think they are the same as the Supra. EDIT: Checked the EPC. The rear caliper piston is the same part number for the Supra, Soarer, Aristo, and GS300, but different for the LS400. LS400 UCF20 Rear caliper piston 47731‑30120 Supra JZA80 Rear caliper piston 47731‑50040 Soarer JZZ30 Rear caliper piston 47731‑50040 GS300 JZS147 Rear caliper piston 47731‑50040 Aristo JZS147 Rear caliper piston 47731‑50040

The LS400 rears are similar to, or possibly identical to, the J-spec Supra rears. EDIT: Looks like it's the same disc, and a similar caliper with a smaller piston.

That's why I said "when it's working perfectly". My Soarer is about to get a UK upgrade. It's not because I need the braking performance (far from it). It's because they look better, and because, after 130,000 miles in my daily driver GS300, I really, really hate the bloody sliders.

That's what I said. It's not the number of pistons, it's the total piston area on one side. That's not what I said. I said "the variables are the caliper piston area (one side of the caliper only), and the effective diameter of the disc". In other words, more slave piston area = more braking force (and the master piston travels further), and bigger disc = more leverage = more braking force. Cooling wasn't mentioned. A sliding caliper with two pistons (when it's working perfectly) distributes the braking force as evenly as an opposed piston caliper with four pistons. It's Newton's Third Law.

I know (but I didn't express myself as clearly as I might have). I meant a sequential system, like the Mk4, but with the difference that the second turbo is larger.