garethr

I think N/A-Ts usually use the oil filter housing bolt for the turbo oil feed. You can either drill and tap the existing bolt for a connector, or use the bolt from a Lexus GS300 (VVTi) or IS300 (part number 90401‑19008), which is ready to use because it's already tapped for an oil pressure switch. Search the forum for lexus union bolt http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil_sensor_mod/index.html http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?258145-Na-t-build

"UK" calipers don't need sliders because they have pistons on both sides of the disc.

If the corner is dropping, surely it can only be a weak or broken spring, or a broken or loose adjustment collar (or a knackered bush or top mount, I suppose, but they couldn't drop very far).

and

Firefox and Internet Explorer just give me a blank page. I haven't changed the settings because Chrome gives Server error The website encountered an error while retrieving http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/itrader_feedback.php. It may be down for maintenance or configured incorrectly. Here are some suggestions: Reload this web page later. HTTP Error 500 (Internal Server Error): An unexpected condition was encountered while the server was attempting to fulfil the request. When I click on that trader_feedback URL, I get: garethr, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons: Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or a members only section? Please see here for details of what sections are only available to club members. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.

Can you move it from P if you press the red button? If you can, will it start in Neutral?

245/40-18 F and 275/35-18 R would be the closest sizes to the stock 225/55-16, and I think that's what was fitted to the GS300 Sport.

Very cute (but... [pedant]yellow Labrador, Golden Retriever [/pedant] )

The Supra was based on the Soarer chassis, and the front crossmember is identical (as in the same part number), so the V8 from a Soarer drops straight in. The LS V8 has the wrong sump.

You're not likely to find many Lexus SC400s in the UK... on the other hand, there are plenty of V8 Toyota Soarers. The V8 Aristo is 4WD (and if you see one for £250 let me know).

You need a socket set and one of these Never any problem on Aristo, GS, or Soarer. Standard Toyota filter is 73mm x 14 flats, I believe.

Arrived this morning, and they do look like new. Thanks Keron

I wouldn't worry about the details, Rob. Do all the important stuff, then non-original bolt-on stuff like exhaust, mudguards, brackets etc. can be replaced as and when. Plus, if it's on the road, and you ride it to the right places, you may make useful contacts, or meet people who have bits in their sheds. 1972 is still pretty early for a UK 750, you hardly saw them back then.

Any inspiration in the Pistonheads Bargain Barge thread?

Plated parts can be unplated by running the electroplating process in reverse. No idea how much it would cost, but it might be worth finding a plater that deals with motorcycle and classic car parts and asking them about it.

I think there are a couple of things to remember when you discuss the durability of the JZs. First is the 7M, which didn't have a particularly good reliability record. Toyota had a point to prove, possibly regardless of cost. Second is that it was designed 20+ years ago, probably as much by experience, a slide rule, and "a bit for luck" as by computer. If it was designed now, everything would undoubtedly be much closer to the limit (look at the Nissan R35 GT-R). You can see the start of that process in the later VVTi engines - the VVTi GEs and UZs have much thinner connecting rods than the original engines, and, consequently, much less headroom for power increases on the standard internals. I just figure that Toyota's engineers probably knew what they were doing, and I certainly don't.

MOT regs here -- http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/index.htm As posted earlier in this thread (and in other threads), HIDs are not a fail. The MOT regs say only that washers and self-levelling must work if fitted. However... what passes an MOT and what is, strictly speaking, legal under the Construction & Use laws are two completely different things. For example, the MOT just says that you need a rear fog light, but the C&U rules say it must have an approval mark, and be 100mm centre-to-centre from any other light, and within a certain height range, and must only be used as a fog lamp and not as something else as well (such as a brake light), etc. Mr Plod was wrong to say that HIDs will fail the MOT, but, possibly, correct to say that you could be fined for using them without self-levelling and washers. Next time, give him the URL and tell him to go off and read the rules.

Assuming that you mean the high-pressure lines, try your local hydraulic supplier (Pirtek?) and have them copied. Generic oil hose will do for the low-pressure lines.

MeMeMeMeMeMe! Let me know how to pay.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/relays/relays.php http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/169/category/36 Don't know if either can deliver by the weekend. Have you tried local motor factors (may only have 30A though)?

If you look at those blocks in more detail it's often either caused by another site using the same host, or (at least on McAfee Site Advisor) as a result of an unfounded report by one particular "reviewer". In this case, Google doesn't like it http://safebrowsing.clients.google.com/safebrowsing/diagnostic?client=Firefox&hl=en-US&site=http://v-eight.com/ but McAfee and Norton think it's OK http://www.siteadvisor.com/sites/v-eight.com http://safeweb.norton.com/report/show?url=v-eight.com so who knows?

BCPR6EIX-11 BC = 14mm Thread / 5/8" (16mm) Hex JIS Type P = Projecting Insulator R = Resistor Type 6 = Heat Rating (2 Hot, 11 Cold) E - 19mm (3/4") Reach IX = Firing End Construction High Performance Iridium (0.6mm diameter) 11 = 1.1mm Gap BKR5EIX BK = 14mm Thread / 5/8” (16mm) Hex ISO Type R = Resistor Type 5 = Heat Rating (2 Hot, 11 Cold) E - 19mm (3/4") Reach IX = Firing End Construction High Performance Iridium (0.6mm diameter) None = Car: 0.8-0.9mm Gap. Motorcycle:0.7-0.8mm Gap So the BCPR6EIX-11: - has a projecting insulator - is one grade colder (more likely to foul but more resistant to heat) - is gapped to 1.1 mm rather than 0.8-0.9mm http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqcode.asp

The bobbins just bolt through the holes that are already in the brackets on the oil cooler. I think the doubles are spaced for Mocal coolers, so they may not be quite right for others. As I said, not essential. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261005733907 The cooler I used is 7.5cm x 17cm x 5cm deep (not including the brackets and the unions).

http://www.priracing.com/section.php/86/1/micro-locks ? An eBay search for "slim locking wheel nuts" finds a few as well.

If you don't have the MOT certificate, and VOSA and the MOT station can't find it on their system, and you can't find it here using the V5C document reference number, another test is probably your only option.