garethr

So not radial mount rears, at least.. Can't see where the fronts bolt up, though...

I think the IS-F calipers are radial mount, so they would need conversion brackets.

It's just a car. Any competent spanner-monkey could do it (even an amateur like me).

http://customs.hmrc.gov.uk/channelsPortalWebApp/channelsPortalWebApp.portal?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=pageVAT_ShowContent&id=HMCE_PROD1_028598&propertyType=document You could call HMRC and find out if you actually need one. Surely every individual who sends a package out of the EU doesn't have to go through this?

Terminal, battery positive 90982‑05036 (05/1995 - 07/1999) 90982‑05037 (05/1993 - 04/1995) Could you make one of these work? http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/photo/02100.jpg eBay or http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/battclamps.php

You could try removing the clamp, taking the bolt out, and running a hacksaw with two blades down the slit. The Halfords battery has "UK" terminals, doesn't it? Is the "Japanese" clamp too big or too small for UK terminals?

Unless you replace the positive cable, I think you'll have to buy the clamp from Toyota. What's the problem - is the clamp loose on the post?

The trouble is that (IMHO) pearlescent white needs sunlight, and we don't live in California.

W58 (W something, anyway). The 1G-GTE didn't produce enough torque to need the R gearbox.

Other than CW... Toyota dealers can order them. Should be 2/3 quid each. If I order stuff on Saturday my local Mr T usually has it in on Tuesday. front 90240-06019 rear 90240-06017

When it started, I thought it was going to be this one: but it was much more amusing.

I think that's a diplomatic plate. EDIT: Apparently, 907 is used for the International Maritime Organisation, X means accredited non-diplomatic staff, and numbers starting with 4 are for for non-diplomatic staff of international organisations. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_country_codes_on_British_diplomatic_vehicle_registration_plates

Leaking into the footwell. I made sure I bought a manual Soarer with a vacuum servo...

Sorry Col, looks like the FCD download link is dead. They must have screwed it up when the shut down the HKS USA site.

Any good Col? http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/products/Pid=683.html http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/info/Pid=1793_download.html Couldn't find one for the SLD http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/products/Pid=781.html

How about combining the two? Chevy LS V8 in the Supra. Lose the rust, poor handling, rubbish brakes, left hand drive (and the , unfortunately), and keep the noise and practicality. http://shop.partsworldperformance.com/ls3-crate-engines http://shop.partsworldperformance.com/tr-6060-six-speed-manual-transmission

Thanks amigos. A few interesting suggestions there. Kawasaki green is a maybe. Not sure about yellow with a white car, may have to do some Googling. Orange? Possibly... Red is always the fallback position. it's probably common for a reason I think I've decided that some colour is needed, so black is out. I think blue would need to be really bright. Don't think I like white calipers. Looks like I have a shortlist. The auto really needs to go, Craig. Too many cars (and bikes!). Then I have to decide what to do about the Aristo - try to repair the expletive deleted master cylinder or do a transplant into a GS.

I debated whether to put this in off-topic or Supra chat, but the wheels and brakes are Supra, so... Next job on the Soarer is to fit the "UK" Supra brakes, but what colour do I go for? I can only come up with black to hide them or red to show them off. Looking at the pics, though, I think I'm favouring red to break up the black. Any suggestions or examples welcome. (Yes, I know the lawn needs mowing )

Edited my post... I can't even remember what my stuff looks like! One of these days, perhaps I'll bite the bullet and set out on the adventure of replacing the dump pipes with the engine still in the car.

They are certainly very similar. All the others I've seen have been much shorter. If memory serves, Lew originally made his dumps without the divided wastegate that the later version had, but that would have been a long time ago. EDIT: Actually, you're correct. Lew's were separate nearly to the flange. http://www.soarerworld.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15091&stc=1&d=1224092455 (I should have known, There's a set in my shed, but I haven't seen them for a while. )

Lew's dumps? IIRC, the Aussies used to reckon they were worth 20rwhp.

Those are the correct offsets. I think the GS needed a little more clearance for the 245 and 275 tyres. I know that 235s on Supra 17s are quite close to the suspension uprights on my Aristo.

Leaving aside the dread with which we house dwellers view the sight of an ex utility pick up cruising our streets... There are a lot of different groups travelling our highways, "real" Romani (gypsies) who were originally from India, Irish and Scots travellers (who have a longer history in the UK than the Romani do), and probably some descendants of the navvies, drovers, show folk, and canal workers whose way of life all but disappeared in the last century. Not forgetting the Eastern European Roma who can now travel throughout the EU sending their children out to beg and pick pockets. "Pikey" is not so much racial, as a description of the less scrupulous travellers who will lay shoddy tarmac "left over from a job", overcharge you for gardening work, and nick anything metal that isn't under tight security. Pikey is now in the swear filter on some forums, God knows why.

Not going for the TT 'box / N-A valve body idea, then (until the controller is fitted)?

Looks like you need print the template full size and transfer it to card - might be easier to use if you first cut from folded paper to create a template for the whole wheel rather than just one half. I assume that "380-215" means that dimension should be 215mm if you are using a 380mm disc, so you can check the size of the card template. Then the left vertical line at the bottom (that runs between the c and a of caliper) fits against the part of the wheel that goes against the hub, the bottom horizontal line should be lined up with the centre of the wheel, and the template will show if there is enough space in the back of the wheel.