garethr

Thr part numbers for the Toyota locking tool are: 09330-00021 - the handle 09213-70011 - the part that bolts to the pulley You can buy a couple of aftermarket versions for 60 or 70 dollars on US ebay, but I haven't seen them over here

You should have claimed you meant "welcome to the club of people with niggly supra problems".

http://www.autospeed.com has some good articles on supercharging.

I did 150K miles in a Merc C230 Kompressor and I never had a problem with the sound of the Eaton supercharger. You could hear it kick in (electro-magnetic clutch) at around 2000 rpm, but it wasn't intrusive. 1Gs are 2-litre. The Aussies reckon that the limit of the Aisin SC14 supercharger is around 225bhp. The power curves posted above demonstrate why I can never see the point of centrifugal blowers - they always look like the worst of both worlds. If I had the fabrication skills, I think I'd go for a TT 1UZ (or perhaps a 500bhp LS3 crate motor ). If I didn't, it would be a positive displacement or twin screw blower kit on a 1UZ, a 1JZ-GTE or 2JZ-GTE transplant, or NA-T.

1fz-fe?

Some people reckon that's why so many JZ crank pulleys fall apart.

http://www.kager.com.pl/kager/web/en/home/;jsessionid=3EEFB9A9631C8153135DFE4AF1B5AC9B

KYB (used to be known as Kayaba). Claim to be the largest manufacturer of dampers. Supply original equipment parts to many motorcycle and car manufacturers (including Toyota/Lexus).

Yes - same engine/gearbox. I'm surprised that you can buy a clutch marked "SC300" in the UK, though. The manual SC300 was only available in North America, and there are probably none over here.

Seems like the diaphragm is the only part that could possibly be damaged by heat. If that's a concern wouldn't it be less hassle to use a piston-type wastegate?

IIRC it takes about 120bhp just to drive the blower on a Mercedes SLR.

I think Toyota just made the later rods only as strong as they needed to be (or as light as possible, depending on which way you look at it ). They did the same thing with the rods for the UZ V8. Early rods look much stronger.

Agreed, Craig, all GTEs and non-VVTi N/As - same rods. VVTi N/As - different rods, presumably weaker.

I believe it would be worse. All the 2JZ variants have the same part number for the conrods, except the VVTi 2JZ-GE. It's unlikely that Mr T decided that the late N/A needed stronger rods, so...

Not quite. The MOT regs actually say; Method of Inspection On petrol engine vehicles that qualify for a full catalyst emissions test, check the presence of the catalytic converter. Reason for Rejection A catalytic converter missing where one was fitted as standard. So you only need a cat if you need a cat to pass the test anyway.

Er... the clue is in the words "compression ignition". If your MOT tester performs that test on your Supra you have a very rare model indeed!

The work that's gone into that car deserves a wider audience - should sign up to PistonHeads and do a write-up for their Carpool feature. http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=26494

Really? "Fast idle" is hardly revving it hard. A screamer pipe wouldn't fail an MOT because the wastegate won't be open. Mr Plod is a different matter...

Don't know about the IS wheels. It might be worth checking on Club Lexus or MyIS - people sometimes fit Supra 4-piston calipers to the IS200/300. Late LS400 wheels might be OK - from '94 (UCF20 model) they had 4-piston front calipers. 225s would be a bit narrow for 9.5 inch wheels. 235s would probably be the limit.

Snow/winter tyres are usually narrow.

That's only 140,000 miles. Barely run in!

I would imagine that the W58 will be scrap long before the engine produces enough torque to wreck the A01B differential. Anyway, isn't the A02B the same as the A01B, just a different ratio? The big diff is the B03B. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/forumdisplay.php?69-FAQs-and-Guides

http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/index.htm There's a visual check on pad wear ("a brake lining or pad insecure or less than 1.5 mm thick at any point"), but I can't see anything about the pad wear warning lamp, only the ABS and brake fluid level lamps. EDIT: Anyway, doesn't it stay off if you disconnect the wires from the pads?

Searching YouTube for V8 Supra or 1UZ Supra should find plenty of videos. Here's one http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?238361-V8-Twin-Turbo-Project&p=3154826&viewfull=1#post3154826

If any forced induction is planned, bear in mind that the early V8 (up to '92/'93) has stronger rods (and needs no cat, of course).