JayDub

Don't know about import m8, haven't spoken to the guy since xmas as no-one seemed at all interested!! Will have to re-kindle relationship & get back to you.........ATB Jay

"Jeez, just how old IS old, I'm 34 soon, and got 2 nippers.............aaaaaargh" You is slackin' Crimbo ma'man, I is 44 with 6 kids - And that's why I'm the old fart!! If your scared o' 2, you can always borrow some of mine b4 you commit to any more!! Kinda like a try b4 ya buy! Oh and b4 we get 2 many smart Alec's out there, I discovered that my ex's idea of contraception was to balance the pill on her cervix!!!!

Haven't bin to a club meet b4, don't mind if an ol' fart tags along do ya? P.S. I have several cars made by small men with slanty eyes - and yes I believe, 1 of them may say Supra on the back!!

Hi All, a belated Merry Xmas to everyone!! Hope the beer didn't affect the feet too much!!! Just checked with the guy in the states & the price doesn't include the pillow ball mounts, but I have asked him to price those up as well. Will post costs as soon as I know. Don't forget that these prices may change slightly on any day, as we would have to pay in USD.

Hi all, merry xmas 'n all that! Have just found a supplier in the states, who can supply Tein Super Streets with the EDFC control system for £802.00 - That includes 4 coilovers, EDFC & associated wiring & I'm fairly sure it includes pillow ball mounts (have to confirm that) as well as shipping!!! Seems a damn good price to me & just wanted to see if anyone else was interested??!! Can organise a group buy if there is enough interest.............Jay

Most likely cause of the tyre wear is that your tracking is out, this will cause the car to try to "steer" itself to the left or the right on it's own (which you may see as crap handling). Basically, both of the front wheels are sticking out slightly (like when you first to turn into a corner) - but because both of them are doing it, then you get the same sort of progress down the road as an Ice Skater - If you get what I mean??!!

Good idea from Terminator, don't know what part of the country yer in - I'm in Stafford & have just taken a good set of stock J spec's off & fitted some 19's. If yer not to far away, yer welcome to borrow them to try...............Jay

Chris will probably jump all over me again, but could it be a damper problem - can cause some really strange problems when they fail (sometimes internally - so no visible signs). Ooh, just had a thought. Had an MX5 (nobodies perfect) with 16's all round & some really dodgy directional tyres on the front. Handled like a sick cow on anything but a brilliantly sunshiny, hot day!!! Had to junk the front tyres - This improved things quite considerably, but still never handled as well as my mate's on 15's - never did find out why!!

I have to concede part of your response Chris, but I am also still of the opinion that torque plays a part in the excess wear/load. My reason is that torque will cause a whip (not Bondage lol) action in the driveshaft which will be transmitted to the hub in the form of the shaft trying to run eccentrically, this causes load from the inside of the bearing (inner race) through the balls & ultimately to the outer race. Also whip will cause heat (we're not talking Sh1t loads, but still over a period of time - most of the cars on this site seem to be about 10 years old) there will be a difference in wear patterns from side to side. This will be accentuated by road camber & roundabouts (your points). The other point I was trying to make about torque is that the propshaft is trying to throw the NSR into the ground (through the diff.) Whilst trying to lift the OSR off the ground (again - forces of physics) That's the main reason for rear wheel drive cars trying to kick out to the left during wheel-spin. And I am sure that all of these forces (caused predominately by torque) cause more stress to the NSR bearing than to the OSR. Hence my original comments..........Jay

I would think it's because we've all got BIG right feet!!! The physics of rear wheel drive cars is that the most torque (twisting action) is transmitted to the NSR first, followed by the OSR, but by then it is slightly reduced - therefore the NSR is constantly under more physical load & will wear more & fail first.

My local go faster dealer has them in stock for £49.99 - Autocare, Stone, Stafford, Staffs. 01785 819449. Speak to John - He'll probably post them out to you

I'm running 255/35 19's on the rear (NCT F1's) 19 x 9.5 with an ET of 30 (I am fairly sure of the ET but not definate) & they didn't foul the arches until I put 1.5" spacers on, then I had to have the arches rolled - cost me 50 quid, well worth it 'coz it now fills the arcch & looks the B****cks!!! Seems to have got the back end a bit more stable Too!! P.S. Standard springs & shocks - J Spec. (Saving up for coil-overs NOW!).

Sum poeple got more time than sense!

See how long it lasts, but if cracking does return - Call "CC Trims" in Sandbach, Staffordshire. Just had my Supe leather/alcantara'd & my wife's FTO leathered - absolutely fantastic job & reasonably priced. I watched them replace a similar panel in a drivers seat similar to yours for £30!!!

Would you not be better off grinding either the nut or the bolt head off & trying to drift them out - can you get a good swing with a club hammer? (Don't seem to have one in my golf bag though! - otherwise I'd lend it to you)

Can anyone tell me if the J spec rear hub bearings are adjustable - I have a slight knock on the NSR @ slow speeds - (Don't get it very often. lol) No seriously, it's there all the time & does my fruit!!! Took the car to my local Toy. dealer, who said there was slight play in the NSR hub (non-adjustable according to them!) & slight movement in the damper - actually demonstrated both!!! & then didn't charge me! BUT did quote me £330 inc VAT to change the rear bearing. But when I changed from 16's to 19's two days later, I noticed a castlated nut & split pin on rear hub - normally ascotiated with adjustable bearings - Now I'm confused???!!!

The driving/fog lamps are H3? I think (the one with the tail on it - fairly sure it's H3). Side lamps are T10 & I haven't got around to the headlamps yet! I changed my side lights to blue LED - looks great, but overshadowed by fog lamps. If anyone knows where you can get LED H3's (I still think!) I'd be grateful.........

I'm not confused at all. Two tones - means two different notes - standard vehicle or AM two tones play both notes (tones) simultaniously (coulda' spelt that one wrong!). Whereas emergency services have two tones played alternatively - same product, just plumbed differently for Em. Serv. (plumbed like Dixie or La Cucaracha):flame Dev Only horny little devil I could find!

Re: the air horns, fitted a set to mine behind mesh front grill. I made a bracket & mounted both horns & compressor all in the same location (used the OE mounting bolt for the low tone OE horn). Also used the original feed to same horn as OE is fused correctly for both the originals & the airs. Two tones are not illegal, as any vehicle with two horns (i.e. Jags, most fords, GM etc. etc. etc. now have two horns!). As for MOT's, I've fitted them to every car I've had since Noah landed & no-one's said squat yet!!! I do have "Dukes" on my 4 Runner, however they are on a separate switch. Hope that helps.:flame Dev