Elmo

I was just about to start a thread asking the same question. I'm taking delivery of a new car next week, which means my Supra (which is my daily runner) won't get much use, so I plan to leave it in the compound at work until I decide what to do with it, so I need an outdoor cover. I don't want to spend a fortune, so was wondering if anyone could recommend a reasonably priced cover that could do the job for a month or two. Thanks.

Hi, Couple of questions. 1). What diameter is the tail pipe? 2). How does the rear silencer attach to the car, I can't see a hanger bracket? Please can you PM or post the video you mentioned? Cheers.

I got it out in the end, there's no chance of it dropping out, the gap is almost the exact same size as the motor. I replaced the copper contacts and plunger, I managed to get the motor back through the tiny gap, now trying to get it back in, it's not easy lying on your back!

Hi, I decided to take my starter motor out today, I got the bolts out in 20 minutes, I thought that was easy! I didn't expect to spend 2 hours trying to free the starter motor, and no nearer to getting it out. I've tried almost everything but it won't come out, it catches on the fuel line and other hard lines, the gap isn't big enough for it to get through. Any advice Would be appreciated, I'm pulling my hair out here! UPDATE I finally managed to free the motor from its evil prison, I removed a 10mm nut from a bracket which secured a couple of hard lines (I don’t know what they are!), this gave me an extra couple of mm clearance which allowed me to just about squeeze/wiggle the motor out. I didn't expect the extraction to be such hard work! Removing and replacing the copper contacts, cleaning the inside out with a small amount of brake cleaner, replacing the plunger and finally replacing the cover took 20 minutes max, easier than I thought. The copper contacts on both sides were badly worn, each one had deep grooves where the disc on the plunger makes contact, the disc on the plunger was just dirty, but I replaced it with a shiny new one. Getting the motor free was frustrating enough, getting the motor back in was equally as frustrating. Holding an unwieldy motor in one hand while trying to line it up with the bolt holes was very difficult as you almost have to do it blind. Having another person spotting from the engine bay would make it much easier, but I was Billy no mates. After a while (I lost track of time) I gave up for the evening and gave myself time to think of a strategy, which I did! I remembered that I have a cheap endoscope/borescope which I got from Amazon last year, I fed the camera through the engine bay and positioned it directly above the top bolt, while lying on my back under the car I could see on my laptop screen when the hole on the flange was aligned with the bolt, I was relieved to see the bolt screwing in, once the bolt was in slightly I was able to easily wiggle the motor in place so I could begin tightening the bottom bolt, phew! After this ordeal, I turned the key with some apprehension, but fortunately it turned over like it was a new car - I was delighted! To remove the top bolt I used a 3/8” wrench with several wobbly extensions, this was enough to reach from the top bolt to the end of the gearbox (where it joins the propshaft), I didn’t have to use any expensive tools. I did use a 6 pointed 14mm socket to prevent slippage, the last thing you want to do is round off the bolt, and I was able to leave the ratchet and extensions attached to the bolt while the starter was out, making it easier when tightening the bolt back up. I used a 1/2” wrench with a universal joint and a medium extension to tackle the bottom bolt, it felt much easier to loosen than the top bolt. The guide was a big help to make sure I had the correct tools and explained how to best access the bolts, but it didn’t prepare me for what was to follow. Would I do it again, or even recommend someone else tries it? Probably not.

Moved post to correct thread...

Bump

Cheers guys

Glad you got sorted

That's the problem I had, I couldn't turn the nut without it coming off. It's a couple of years or more since I had the problem, I can't remember too much so can't really offer you much advice, I just remember it was a horrible job made worse by the fact that the replacement seat I travelled hours to collect didn't work either. Hopefully, someone more knowledgeable will reply soon.

Recently bought this from another club member not realising that facelift & pre-facelift seat belts were different. £35.00 delivered.

This brings back a lot of bad memories! At the font of each rail there is a nut, you need to turn each nut gradually (ideally at the same time) to draw the seat forward, just to give you enough room to access the floor bolts at the back. When my packed up one of the nuts came off and the seat didn't budge, I spent many hours in a hot car trying to get the damn seat out...good luck!

It seems that the flasher relay may be on it's way out. When unlocking the car with the alarm fob the indicators flash and on occasions the N/S indicators will stay on, if I play with the indicators all of the indicators will stay on (constant, not flashing), eventually after turning the alarm on/off, on/off etc. the indicators go back to normal, and the indicators will work fine while driving. I am trying to find the relay, I am aware that it is located somewhere in the drivers footwell, I have had a look but I can't see anything, is it hidden behind a panel or something? Also, can anyone give me the part number for the flasher relay? Cheers

I've seen you a few times on Haygate Road, and once I think in Hadley. Each time I was in my Blue Supra with the gold wheels

Are you the guy I sometimes see on Haygate Road around 17:30'ish? I've seen a silver Supra a couple times while at the Holyhead Road junction.