Dash Rendar

Not necessarily a reason not to have one. Your existing machines could wire into a wireless router (as you do now), using the wireless only for your iPhone. Alternatively, you could attach a wireless access point to your existing router.

Thanks for part numbers. I haven't tried the relay, as I don't really know what I'm doing!

Er, no. I'm not really sure how to go about that. But I'm also confused as to why my idle oil pressure is so different to what you said yours was (and M5W TT), yet why the likes of Ryan, Mark (Phoenix) and Matt Harwood thought it was okay. Oh, hang on... Is your gauge in bars? That would certainly account for the cold start difference, since my 95psi would be pretty much bang on 7 bars.

Don't suppose anyone can clear up that confusion for me?

Thanks for clearing that up.

Thanks dude. I appreciate it. I've no idea if this is actually the faulty part, but it can't hurt to replace it and see...

I posted up a similar issue here -> http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=210562, but no reply yet. Same thing though... locks, but half of the time does not unlock. That part you were talking about Bakerk, is that the central locking bits from the driver's door card? Do you have a part number or something? I would happily pay that amount to get mine sorted!

Don't let it bother you. Some people just don't get it. They have their hobbies... You have yours. But, because they drive mundane vehicles, they like to tell us how much more informed they are about... well, everything. If you get enjoyment out of driving and looking after your car, then that's all that really matters. So long as you're having fun and no one else is getting hurt along the way, then no one else's opinion really counts for anything.

If I saw one of those, I'd probably follow it too. Oh, you were talking about the car.

This is obvious, but for those of you on tracker mortgages and currently enjoying obscenely low interest rates, now is the time to overpay monthly by as much as you can, as you'll be saving yourself a fortune in the long run.

Thanks for those figures. Now I'm really confused though! The car fires up so quick, it's hard to see what the oil pressure is while cranking, but it looks to be around 3psi for the second or so that the gauge was stable before rapidly rising. Once the engine starts, the oil pressure rises up to around 90. It then gradually comes down as the oil temps increase. Once the oil is up to around 60 degrees, the oil pressure on idle has dropped to around 25psi. I've never considered this odd, because Matt Harwood and Mark (from Phoenix) fitted the gauge, and they both told me the high pressure on cold start was normal, and that it should come down (as it does) when it warms up. They set the low threshold at 15, which causes the gauge to alarm if the pressure drops below it. The oil pressure never drops below this level, unless it stalls. Ryan G has also checked the oil pressure gauge while mapping, and commented that the values were normal. But what I'm seeing seems totally different to what you guys are reporting for a cold idle!

Does anyone know how quickly the oil pressure should build when cranking up the engine on a cold start? What readings would you expect to see on an oil pressure gauge? Should it be up to pressure straight away, or does it take some time? Thanks.

Now I've had my alarm sorted, I'm still left with the central locking problem that started up since the cold weather. Basically, sometimes, when I use the remote fob to unlock, it disarms the alarm and unlocks the car. But usually, it fails to unlock the car. The remote key fob almost always manages to lock the car. At first I had assumed it was an issue with the remote, but recently I've found that sometimes the button in the cabin refuses to work too, and I have to reach over to unlock the passenger door. Sometimes, the passenger door handle does seem quite stiff. That said, the unlocking issue affects both doors. It's been suggested that the problem is a faulty solenoid, which I should replace. Does that sound reasonable? Can anyone tell me the part number of give me a price? I presume I'll need one for both sides? Thanks.

Thanks.

Quick question about the adjuster settings... My adjuster in the cabin has the following settings: * Wet * Dry * 10% * 15% * 20% * Off But in the RLTC manual, it describes the adjuster as having the following settings: * Wet - For severe slippery conditions e.g ice, torrential rain * 5% - Damp conditions * 10% - Dry conditions * 15% - Sport * 20% - Sport * OFF - Traction control Turned Off, the car will function as standard. So, if the manual thinks 10% is for dry, but my adjuster has a 'Dry' setting where the manual thinks there's a 5% setting, does that mean that 'Dry' on my car is actually the 5% setting? And consequently, should I be using the 10% setting in the dry instead? And should I be setting my adjuster to 'Dry' when I'm in damp conditions, given the manual's recommended setting for 'damp conditions' (i.e. 5%)?

(Sorry!)

In my experience, this is very true. It doesn't matter how overwhelming your evidence is, or how obvious it is that the buyer is pulling a scam, they always seem to rule in favour of the buyer. They're a bunch of thieving gits, and it's a shame that they effectively monopolise the online auction market. Best of luck with the appeal...

2:43... so funny.

Tragic.

Agreed... great tyres.

That's great news.

That's brilliant!

That's a good story.

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