Dash Rendar

I like the SA-70s in black chrome. I like the SA-70TTs even more, but they're more expensive again.

Don't worry, the new wheels are on their way from Japan.

I remember when Peter Sharp took a close up photo of his car. At first I thought he was telling fibs, and the photo was taken in front of a mirror. But as he zoomed out, you could tell it was the amazing finish on his Supra. I was so jealous! Well, now I've had my car mopped and the nosecone resprayed, and I think it looks amazing. Hope you like it... http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/polished/polishedClose1.jpg http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/polished/polishedClose2.jpg http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/polished/polishedClose3.jpg http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/polished/polishedClose4.jpg http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/polished/polishedFront1.jpg http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/polished/polishedSide1.jpg

Gunmetal, **** WWO in the Tesco carpark this morning at around 10:30. Alas, we were in the Scoobie, so there was no mutual Supra staring.

How about £15 plus the postage? It's in pretty good condition... Here's a better picture: http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/bits/shifter.jpg

Reactive balls do react a bit differently on plastic lanes. The difference is hard to describe or quantify... It's just different! How quick the lanes dry out is down to a number of things... How much they put on the lanes to begin with, the temperature of the bowling centre, for example. I presume they dress the lanes immediately before leagues and in the morning? Wood lanes can dry out quicker than plastic lanes. But on the other hand, if the wooden lanes have been properly maintained and well-lacquered, then the oil shouldn't be absorbed by them anyway. But old wood lanes are often not-so-well maintained!

Interesting you mentioning the World Cup event in Israel there Liam. If that's the one I'm thinking of, one of my friends actually won the Amateur World Cup in Israel. Her name was Gemma... She actually won it twice. Another friend of mine, called Mel, also won it once. Not bad to have two amateur world champions from the same tiny 12-lane bowling centre! We all had the same coach: Gemma's dad. The guy is a legend and coached a lot of team GB players.

Now I feel mean for posting up the pictures.

Well, there is still a good argument for getting the polyester ball first. In six months time, as you say, when you feel you've got the hang of it, then go and buy your reactive. By then you'll be getting a fair bit of hook and you would struggle to hit the ten pin using your hooking ball. So that's when you use your polished polyester ball... for sparing, since it goes relatively straight. As you've already noticed, a plastic ball on a properly oiled lane will hardly turn at all, even if you get loads of revs. (Of course, going through the middle of the lane to take the spare should result in less hook also, since - if the lane is properly oiled - there should be more oil in the middle.) And as a bonus, they would both be drilled the same, as they should be. If you're going in the pocket every time and never getting strikes, then you're doing something wrong, even with a straight ball. Try standing further to the right to increase the angle to the pocket. The high amount of deflection may imply you are throwing the ball too slow, or not getting any lift. (Again, lift is increased through having a fingertip drilling.) Remember that a consistent 8-spare scoring gives you a 180+ average. So, as a coach of mine used to say, "concentrate on the spares, and the strikes will look after themselves." If you are dead-set on getting a reactive ball as your first fingertip, then you need to also think about what kind of reactive, and what kind of surface you want. For example, a polished reactive slides longer, storing the 'energy' longer, resulting in a later and more violent hook. With a well-oiled lane and a properly stripped (i.e. dry) back-end, this will give the best scoring result, but is hardest to control. On a dry lane it will give you more length (i.e. distance before it starts turning), which is also useful. A dull or sanded ball will start to turn much earlier. Novices automatically assume that a sanded ball therefore hooks more. This isn't the case; it just hooks sooner. So, on a fairly dry lane, the ball turns early and then 'rolls-out'. (Lots of cool terminology.) When a ball has rolled out, it has no energy when it hits the pocket; it is no longer turning, although you still have the advantage of increased angle. On a heavily oiled lane, a sanded ball is beneficial, since a polished reactive can slide too long, or barely hook at all. The dull reactive finish gives a more predictable shape to the hook, so it might be better for you. But speed is also a factor. The slower you throw it, the more opportunity the ball has to hook. So if you put a slow hook bowler on a poorly oiled (dry) lane condition, he'll be stuffed as the ball will hook well before the pins. So now you see why most high-average (180+) hook bowlers typically carry three or more balls. They typically have two or three reactives (usually one sanded and at least one polished) and a polished polyester/plastic. But a beginner can keep it much more simple. The basic arsenal for the beginner hook bowler is this: one polyester spare ball, and one moderately reactive ball (but not too aggressive). Which Pro Shop are you visiting?

I love tenpin bowling! When I was 15/16, I was ranked 12th in the UK under-19s category, according to the World Of Tenpin magazine. These days I don't bowl so often and I'm not so good, and my current league average is a lowly 185. (14 years ago, it was about 15 pins higher.) I've bowled a 290 game twice (that's 1 spare followed by 11 strikes), but never a 300. I've also bowled several scratch 690+ series (that's three game total)in matchplay/league play, but keep seeming to miss the 700, which is really annoying! I bowl with a fairly big hook and a reasonable amount of revs, but I would consider myself more of a 'power-stroker' than a 'cranker'. I used to coach bowling and I've had 'students' hit 300 games. I'm happy to give any advice on technique if anyone is interested. To juanchan: you have a few decisions in front of you. Perhaps more important than whether you go for a plastic/urethane/reactive or particle ball is whether you decide to go for a fingertip drilling, rather than a 'conventional' drilling. (Obviously, a 'fingertip' drilling is where only the figertips go in the ball.) If you want to create hook and revs, this is the only way to go. (There are very few bowlers with a 180+ average who dont use a fingertip drilling.) However, most bowlers usually experience a 20-pin drop in average when they make the switch to fingertip, because of the increased control that is required. You'll never get much hook with a conventional drilling. BTW, you want hook, not 'spin'. They are two different things. Hook increases the angle of attack into the 1-3 pocket (assuming you're a right-handed bowler), thereby decreasing deflection and increaing the frequency with which you 'carry the 5'. (I.e. straight balls tend to deflect and often leave the 5 pin, even when they go in the pocket.) Spin, on the other hand, is what happens when you rotate your hand as you release the ball. This can cause a small arc, but kills the forward roll on the ball and actually results in less hitting power in the pocket. IMO, switching to both a reactive ball AND fingertip at the same time is just too big a change for an inexperienced bowler, especially if you currently average 140. It will greatly increase any inconsistency you already have in your game. On the other hand, getting a reactive ball with a conventional drilling is fairly pointless, as they're designed for deliveries that create a reasonable number of revs. (And you can't create a lot of revs with a conventional drilling.) So, if I were you, I would get a non-reactive urethane or a polyester (plastic) ball, drilled conventional, or a non-reactive urethane ball, drilled fingertip. The urethane ball with a fingertip drilling, when delivered properly, will hook some, but without the aggressive snap of a reactive ball. Consequently, it will allow you to develop your release and your hook, but without sacrificing too much consistency, which would certainly happen if you were to go straight to a reactive. Furthermore, a dull surface urethane ball will give a more predictable hook on most lane conditions than a reactive ball. Hope this helps.

It's yours.

Yes, sorry rovervi, Jay_NW beat you to it. This is now sold.

*** SOLD *** I have for sale a brand new 3-inch V-Band clamp from ATP Turbo. This is one of the really strong clamps, not one of the weaker varieties like the XS Power. I originally bought it to achieve a better fit of my BL exhaust, but now I've changed the exhaust, I don't need it anymore. http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/bits/vband.jpg I'm looking for £15, plus the postage.

*** SOLD *** I have for sale a TRD 1.3 bar rad cap. This is sold by traders for about £25 plus the postage. I'm asking for £10 including postage. http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/bits/trdRadCap.jpg

Imi, looks like you've had a real bargain! Having inspected them for the first time since starting this thread (my car has been in the shop for over a week), I can now safely say that these lights have no yellowing at all! The plastic is slightly less clear than a brand new set, but they're otherwise perfect. I've also just realised that they've been painted black inside, like facelifts. http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/bits/jspecHeadlight.jpg

I have for sale a set of stock TT 17-inch wheels, including tyres. The wheels are in pretty good conditions. A couple of the wheels have a small amount of curbing (they're not bad), while the other two are in really good condition. The tyres on the front have loads of tread left. The tyres on the back are not so good. All are legal. These will be available when my new wheels arrive from Japan. The ETA is around Christmas time. I'm looking for 200 ONO. http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/polished/polishedSide1.jpg Here's one of the front wheels... http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/stockWheels/DSCN7685.JPG And here's one of the rears... http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/stockWheels/DSCN7686.JPG

lol. I like the way you think.

Yes, I agree with you! But I'd rather have the quiet exhaust than the migraines. I'm gonna keep my eyes open for something in between. (But if I buy another exhaust too soon, my missus will go loopy, so I'd better keep this one on a low profile!)

Bump.

It was 3-inch, with a 4-inch tip. I've just been out in the Supra again this morning... It's so quiet, I occasionally think I must be driving a Rover.

Okay, the zorst is sold. I'm meeting the buyer this morning. For those of you who didn't win this fabulous prize, here's what you could have won... http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/bl/bl1.jpg http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/bl/bl2.jpg http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/bl/bl3.jpg I would have cleaned it before taking the pictures, but I only picked the car up (with the exhaust off) late last night, and now I'm off to deliver it!

It's amazingly quiet. Almost too quiet! Yes, the BL is sold... I'm meeting the buyer this morning.

The chewing should worry you more. You need to 'bunny proof' any areas they will be allowed to roam.

lol! They can be trained to use a litter tray; mine do. They like to eat while they poo, so a litter tray filled with hay usually does the trick. Anywhere else where they might have 'left their mark' while litter training needs to be cleaned straight away, as they tend to continue to do their business in places where they've already established the scent.

I've now had the TRD fitted and I'm *stunned* at how quiet the car is (bearing in mind it's a single). It sounds like a stock Supra now. It's possibly even a little too tame for my liking, but on the other hand, it's better than getting migraines! So, for those of you still interested in quiet exhausts, this one should definitely be on your shortlist. (That's if you can get hold of one... I hear they're pretty rare.) BTW, I polished my TRD up. If you're interested, here's the before and after: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=131435.