Dash Rendar

Jeeze. Now I feel a bit gutted. I didn't realise that when I changed my exhaust. When I've got some money (hah!) and a car that works (hah again!) I might have another think about the exhaust I'm using.

Well done guys! I just felt the fuel filter again after a long drive and it was certainly rather warm! (I must have left it too long to cool down the first time.) So I think this further indicates the problem is at the fuel pump end, as it seems that warm/hot fuel is reaching the FPR. I can't measure the voltages myself, so I'll take it into a garage ASAP for them to look at it.

Thank you. That's why I love this place... The community spirit is fantastic. I owe you guys...

Seriously matey... Go and buy an Apexi instead, or put the stock one on instead. If you put on an HKS mushroom and your turbos blow up in a year's time, we'll all be saying "we told you so". Have a look here for some filter reviews. You'll see that the HKS fares rather poorly on filtration, which is... well, the whole point of having one!

No worries. Anyone else interested? (DrivingTheDream... I PM'd you, but no response.)

I've just had a feel of the fuel filter (the one under the passenger seat) and it's cold! The engine is off, but I've been driving for about 30 minutes. I then felt the FPR and it's really hot! (Nearly as hot as the throttle body itself.) I felt the fuel hoses going to the FPR, and that was really hot too. Then I started the car (just a few minutes ago) and left it idling. What's interesting is that the fuel pipe feeding the FPR instantly went cool (I guess because the fuel running through it is cool), and the FPR is now cold! Also, when I started the engine, the fuel pressure was reading 24psi and now it's raised to 30. I think we now have overwhelming evidence that the FPR gets hot under load, and that this heat is causing it to drop pressure. But the FPR is not getting hot when the engine is idling, and the fuel filter doesn't appear to be getting hot at all. Do we still think the fuel pump/wiring is causing the problem, or does the cold filter rule this out? Maybe I need some cold air induction for my FPR!? I guess what I need to do is now give the car another run, get the FPR nice and hot, and then immediately have a feel of the fuel hose feeding the FPR to see if it's hot. I guess that would confirm that hot fuel is causing the problem. And, presumably, hot fuel certainly wont be doing the engine much good either. Thanks again to everyone for their input. I know this thread is getting lengthy.

It just occurred to me that Darryl said the fuel pump was always noisy in this car. After we replaced the fuel pump, it was still noisy, so we didn't think much of it. If the pump wasn't getting a constant 12V supply, that might cause it to be noisy? I'm hoping that the light at the end of the tunnel might just be some re-wiring!!

Then that is exactly what I shall do. I realise you said to put in the stock FPR all along, but I couldn't find anyone who was able to fit it, and I was reluctant to leave it too long, given the car is my daily driver. Thanks for explaining how the pump can raise the temperature of the fuel and, consequently, the FPR. This is looking more and more like a possibility. Something is causing that FPR to become so hot, it's almost too hot to touch.

Forgive me if I'm being stupid, but can't the problem of losing large bhp by putting on a more restrictive exhaust be circumvented by just upping the duty cycle on a boost controller? I lost about 0.3 bar of boost when I switched from my 4" BL to the 3" TRD exhaust (which is extraordinarily quiet). With BC off, it dropped from 0.8 bar (with the old exhaust) to 0.5 bar. With the boost controller on, each channel lost about 0.2 bar. I'm presuming that by upping the boost controller, I'll now be getting the same power, but with EGTs a bit higher.

I would if I knew how. I've just measured the fuel pressure at constant 12V with the engine turned off, after driving for an hour. It was about 6psi lower than when the engine was cold, but was slowly increasing as the unit cooled off. When I felt the FPR after getting out the car (after an hour of driving), it was a little warm, but no way near as hot as it was when I did the same thing yesterday, and the car was going no way near as lean today either. I dont know why it heated up so much more yesterday. The weather didn't seem any warmer yesterday. I've had a look at the vacuum lines, but I really can't make sense of what I need to do, in terms of attaching it to different outlets. I would take a picture, but I'm away from home and dont have the facilities. Can anyone recommend any one person who would have the skills to diagnose and resolve this for me? I'm hoping for someone in the London area or south. (I live in Berkshire, but as I type I'm in Somerset.) I guess I could travel further, but the longer I drive, the leaner it goes, and I worry about the damage I'm doing to the car. I'm ashamed to say I'm not too good at working with cars. Changing sparks and swapping the Aeromotive is about as hands-on as it gets for me! In the meantime, I'll get the stock FPR fitted, in the hopes that I've been unlucky enough to have fitted two defective Aeromotive units. (I'm told the odds of this are pretty astronomical.)

Thanks Tricky. If I'm reading this right, I think it's actually plugged into both outlets, via a T-piece. One goes straight into a plastic fitting (the map sensor?) and the other goes into an outlet just below. They meet at a T-piece which then goes off to the FPR. I guess I could disconnect it so that it's only attached to one of these outlets? But I'm led to believe the map sensor definitely needs this feed, and I don't know what the other outlet does. Also, Ryan was measuring air temps reaching over 80 degrees, but he didn't suggest that was particularly hot?

For question 2, the FPR is mounted at far right corner of the engine bay, as viewed from the front of the car. (I think this is where you would normally find the charcoal canister?) Do FPRs normally get hot? Is this known to be an issue? For question 1, if I understand the question right, there is a vacuum line from the throttle/map sensor. (Hopefully Darryl or Ryan can confirm this.) This was originally a poor quality silicon hose, but it's been replaced with a much sturdier one. Electronic gauge, petrol source in the cabin? Well, I don't know what this entails, but I guess someone like Mark at Phoenix might be able to sort something out for me. I haven't measured the voltage, no. Sorry, I dont have the equipment to do this, and I wouldn't know where to begin. As far as I know, the pump is wired in a completely standard manner. The only change is that it's a Walbro. I have run the pump in diag mode, by bridging the ports with the engine off and the ignition on. The pressure appears to stay constant for the duration of the observation (i.e. a few minutes), but I have to admit that I haven't (since replacing all the kit) done a before and after test once the FPR has heated up. I guess what I should do is check the pressure, drive the car for an hour, then check it again. Thanks for your help everyone. I'm feeling slightly reassured that we'll get there in the end!

*** Please, can somebody help me!! *** Well, it looks like the car is still a mess. When I set out today the fuel pressure on idle was 33psi. An hour later, after driving through a few villages, it had dropped to 16psi and the AFRs were - not surprisingly - lean off the scale. I had pull over and up the FPR pressure 10psi by the road side just to bring the AFRs back on to the scale. I've replaced everything... pump, filter, FPR, gauge and hoses. What the hell is wrong with my car? Can someone explain to me (as my understanding is not great) whether the Aeromotive unit is attached inline after or before the fuel rail. I got the impression from another member that the stock unit sets the pressure before the fuel rail, but that the aftermarket ones fix the pressure after the rail? Or is that not right? If this is the case, could the problem be the fuel rail or the injectors? (It's a stock rail with 800cc injectors.) Some more observations that might help... The Aeromotive FPR was extremely hot to the touch after an hour's driving. Should it be? I can't believe I've had two faulty FPRs. Could it be that I have some sort of 'hot spot' in the engine bay which is causing this? Another strange thing I noticed... When the AFRs were lean off the scale, I could actually smell fuel inside the car! There are no fuel leaks from the FPR itself. If the fuel pressure is right down and the car is burning lean, where can the smell be coming from? Please can someone help. I haven't been able to safely achieve boost on this car since I bought it. I've replaced everything that I've been advised to replace. I'm completely out of money and the car still doesn't work. BTW, I do have a stock FPR on its way. I want to get a fuel pressure gauge fitted inside the cabin, and I'm wondering where it should be plumbed into. I'd like to get it fitted so that it's independent of the the actual FPR that's installed. Is that possible. BTW, Merry Christmas everyone.

Chris, I'm feeling sorry for you. You deserve to put your feet up and have a well-earned rest.

Just to keep you all posted.... Over the last few weeks I've replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter, and the FPR. I did them one at a time, to try and determine that cause of the problem. I was going to put a stock FPR back on, but didn't have the skill to do the swap myself and couldn't find any place that could fit me in the next couple of months, so I bought another Aeromotive unit (and a new gauge). For example, I did give ToyotaGT a call, but they told me they couldn't fit me in for about 8 weeks (that was three weeks ago when I first called) and the price they quoted to put a stock unit on well exceeded the price of a replacement Aeromotive anyway. I didn't want to run the car in this state for two months, so I figured getting a new Aeromotive was the quickest and easiest option. Now all three bits have been swapped, it looks like the problem still remains. I set the static pressure to 40psi, which equates to about 30psi on idle when cold. By the time the car is running hot, the fuel pressure has dropped to 20psi!! I've no idea why this is happening, though Ryan does tell me mine isn't the first car he's seen that does this. It looks like the FPR drops pressure when the air temperature goes up. I'm hoping that this effect is constant and repeatable, in which case the new map should work just fine. But if it's not... Then I totally stumped!

You could always drop Nick a line at gaugeplace.com. They do A-Pillar pods for the Supra, hand trimmed to order. I ordered one a couple of days ago for £55, including delivery. I haven't received it yet, so I couldn't comment on quality, but this did come highly recommended on this board.

And, so I've heard, if you see the red one, it's probaby already too late.

Here's a picture from the top. It's not A1 condition, but hopefully a bit nicer than the one you've got. http://supra.just2good.co.uk/myBlackSingle/bits/DSCN7981.JPG You can have it for £15, including the postage (assuming UK).

I'll take another photo tonight, as I'm at work at the moment. You have first dibbs.

I may have inadvertently spawned a "my dad is nicer than your dad" thread.

He's got to be the politest and friendliest trader I've dealt with. And, on top of that, I just managed to buy a brand new Aeromotive FPR from him, including postage, for £115. I ordered it just after midnight on Thursday and it arrived this morning... So that's 2-3 business days, depending on if you include Saturday.

This is now sold.

I could do with some too... The ones to fit decent size (16cm?) speakers. If ShamelessTT doesn't want these (or is now sorted), I'll happily take them.

Go on guys... You know you want to! I'm guessing Darryl wont want to swap for an OEM bumper... given that he has no Supra to put one on!