Matt Harwood

Unless you're paying £3.72 for this car, walk away. the guy is clearly full of poo. The 5 speed boxes are not stronger... The Greddy Emanage blue is a piggy back ECU... That setup will not produce 650bhp, (Except for possibly a single dyno run at 55 bar or boost!) Aside from all that, I struggle to believe that someone paying big money for HKS pistons, Carrillo rods etc, would then spend as little as possible buying XS power stuff.... Hand made manifold?!?!? Walk away!

It's an A340 Rob

I would guess that it is a crude speed delimiter.

One ECU is much bigger than the other. You'll also find the wiring different. I'm sure you could retro fit the entire ECU & loom as I believe it's all separate though... If you wish...

The SRS ECU's are different for 1 or 2 air bags, so no, I don't think it will plug'n'play. There's a lot of scaremongering with air bags. The 10 year recommended change is because the chemicals that charge the initial explosion can 'go off' over time and either not be quite as effective, or simply not work at all! Also, you don't need to disconnect the car battery. You just need to make sure the ignition is fully off. - The air bag circuits are not powered until the ignition is on. I've removed 7 refitted loads now and never had any problems... Yet

The used car market is on it's ass at the moment. I'm regulaly seeing people loosing 35-55% from forcourt prices. I've currently got a deal going through where my customer bought a top of the range A-class in November 2006. He paid for every extra and it cost him £19500. The best trade offer we've had on it so far is £6500! Now, having said that, we're really busy at the moment. I think specialist cars are retaining their money 'reasonably' well. It's the run of the mill cars that are really suffering.

I haven't had any work done by them, but I used to supply parts to them. I've seen some of their work, which looked good. They've been around for a long time, so I would hope that says something positive about them.

The car was still running at idle. I was more concerned the paintwork would get damaged long term, and that if that's how hot the bonnet was outside, the under bonnet temps were obviously very high.

Having fitted and removed lots, get the Thor one. It's good, works well, gives reasonably acurate readings straight out of the box, de-limits properly, and has good back-up. The cheap ones simply convert a kph signal to mph which technically leaves the limit in place but at 180mph. These type can also mess up everything that operates via speed signals. Power steering, active spoiler, cruise control, even the way the autobox behaves.. The Thor one is the only one I'd ever use.

Just to add, I've still got the same battery, same Halfords charger and same 10 metres of speaker cable extension... Still haven't connected a plug yet either

Mine has a fully wrapped manifold and a turbo blanket. It's been that way since 2004 without any sign of cracking. I've destroyed a turbo gasket, but I doubt that was caused by the heat wrap The main reason I wanted mine done was because I wasn't happy with how hot my bonnet was after a spirited run!

It's a drain hose. If water gets in, it drains back out through the hose...

I have a modified stock rail, with -8 inputs at either end, running 800cc injectors since 2004 with no fuelling issues...

The Ai600 was a great alarm in its day. Very over-engineered as it was Toads first ever Cat 1 system. There are no codes with the Ai600. They used to have a little green tag key that could disarm the alarm by touching against an immobiliser type recepticle. This recepticle would/should also emit a beeping noise inside the vehicle. If the recepticle goes faulty, it can make the alarm do all sorts of strange things, including what yours is doing there. If you can find the recepticle, and trace it back, you should be able to unplug it. If that doesn't work, you will have to get a new alarm system. Nothing else will stop the remotes from working and make the siren output odd noises except a faulty ECU. Not only were these a bugger to change when they were current due to the locking pins you needed to hammer out, but they simply don't make it any more, and they didn't have an external plug to change 'brains'. It was all hard-wired!

"Ere mate, does it wheelspin?"

Is the Pope religious?

LOL, they'd need to be bigger than that!

Yeah, I've looked that that too. IMHO the gearing on the V160 is pretty crap really. I'd rather have the NA 5sp ratios. I've often wondered if Toyota used the 6sp box as a bit of a sales gimmick.

I may be being a bit silly here, but do you really want to put a higher ratio diff on a 500+bhp Supra? I've bought a UK diff to get the lowest ratio I could find in an effort to use second and third gear more effectively. My personal feeling is that the car is now undergeared. It reminds me of having a mk2 Escort with a 2.0 engine on 1.3 running gear..

Air con internal temperature sensor

Matt's harness is definitely the correct type you'd need to easily wire in an E-manage or any other accessory. The white plug is something that the previous owner has wired in. It can be cut out and return the harness to standard without any problems.

I'm going to try to get to this. It'd be good to see Dude again, and finally get to see your place Matt.

Just out of interest, why, when in closed loop mode, would the ECU need to store any data? - With adjustments being made at 'x' times per second, surely it could sort itself out regardless. Even if you suddenly dump a load of fuel in with the emanage at idle, it'll sort itself out completely in around a second... IMHO, the only time you should need to reset the ECU is if it has been spiked and acting irregular. - With all the things I've done with mine, I've never 'needed' to reset the ECU except to clear fault codes.

My stock ECU IS a modified one. Has caused problems with the E-manage in the past.

Now YOU, are one person that I will not question.