Matt Harwood

Crikey... It was about 5 years ago... Hmmm, a GT35R, and two T61's IIRC.

I've personally fitted Power Enterprise 650 injectors into 3 vvti Supra's without any issue.

Power Enterprise are 650's and perfect for a T61.

There aren't any wires on the FPR, unless you're talking about an aftermarket one with a FP gauge perhaps?

Revs should increase when the A/C kicks in. The ECU compensates for the extra load on the engine and increases the idle via the IACV. Aftermarket ECU's may not have been set up to do this, in which case the idle will drop when the A/C pump kicks in. I have no idea about the hunting, but tending to agree with Scooter about a siezing/faulty A/C pump.

I'm not making a vote. Because there wasn't a 'Keep both and sell the one you like least after a couple of months' button... I never used to like Porkers much. I appreciate what they are, but I always felt that the Porsche design engineers could have been just a little more adventerous after 30-40 years of production. However, my opinion changed after you got yours. It's a stunning looking car, that behaves like a pussy car until you provoke it, when it turns into more of a cheetah. However, as comparisons go, there's a fair price difference there. As you know, I still think that the unreliability issues 'could' be blown out of context. If there are issues, Nissan will be under heavy pressure to fix them. Some of which may have already been quietly addressed. It's still early days for the GTR. I like them both. You know that. The GTR we went out in was seriously impressive. You've had a GTR bug for as long as I can remember, but this is the first one that's been a good possibility. You've also always wanted a Porsche for as long as I've know you, (Which a fair time now), and it has to say something that you've only had the 997 for a short while, and yet there's obviously something that's not quite lighting your fire with it...

I had to fill up a Dodge Ram SRT-10 last week, (8.3 litre V10)... No idea how much it should have taken, the pump cut out at 100 litres and the petrol station attendant wouldn't re-start it for me! Fuel gauge was still only showing 3/4's of a tank after putting in £121!... Oh, and it averages 10.5mpg if you're being sensible

Ahhh, thanks guys, I'm blushing

The speedo and odo wire up seperately, so it all depends on the converter and how it's wired up.

Pull out the 7.5a fuse for traction control, the 'slip control' light will keep flashing to tell you there's an error. Remove the dashboard, and remove the bulb... Job done. If you have a manual, it won't have any effect on anything else, ABS will work fine.

That shouldn't happen. If a plate is withdrawn, the vehicle would just go back to it's original age related plate. I can't think of any reason why it would then be placed on a Q. There's no doubt about the vehicles identity.

I've got a red one from a 1994 car if anyone wants it?

It's not that a car would need reclassifying as such. Q plates are issued for a number of reasons. Commonly, if you were to try to register a car without identity, and the original identification or chassis number could not be established, or try to register a car built from a number of other cars and less than 60% of any single car existed, (Don't ask me how they establish a percentage of a car). Or, if a vehicle is pulled in, believe to be on false identity, and the original identity cannot be proven. Q stands for Questionable origin. Hence why the registration mark is permanently stuck with the vehicle, and cannot be changed. A car would only be placed on a Q after a repair if the police were involved and the repair was thought to have involved the use of stolen car parts, or been rung. Never under normal repair circumstances.

Foot on clutch, flat out on throttle for a second or so, drop clutch, hold on... It's a bit brutal, so you don't want to do it too often, but if it bogs down, you need to raise the revs. If it just goes wild, you need to drop the revs. There's no correct setting unfortunately, it'll depend on the level of available grip at the time...

Manual...

I guess I should have looked at those screen shots before posting. Yep setting the rev limits to 8000 would effectively disable it!!!

Hi Darren, Sorry to see you're having more problems. The RLTC 'should' always cut in regardless of how cold or slippery it is. In icy or very wet conditions, you will experience a certain amount of movement because even a 5% difference in wheelspeeds means the wheels are breaking traction and allowing the rear to slide slightly. Are the tyres in good condition? RLTC's working data is based on wheel speed differences between the driven and reference wheels. It's importants and worth checking that this information is still in the correct places. I have seen one case where the wheels 'seemed' to move. I always assumed it was the customer fiddling, but who knows I don't think you can disable launch control, but I do remember that I didn't set yours up to suit your car. Those launch settings, well the dry one at least, looks like it was from my car. Mine had the same turbo as yours but non DBB, so it should be similar. Depends how aggressive you want it to be The wiring in the car isn't the greatest, but it's safe. I've seen a lot worse. If I thought it needed work at the time, I would have mentioned it.

You'll need to register, but these people are very helpful. Any radio code that is based on an algorythm, they'll be able to do for you. Some will need physically altering to change the code if you can't obtain the original. Try this... eservice

I had a similar thing happen myself. Strange thing was, after pulling the head off, it turned out that one of the valve seats had dropped out. Luckily it was caught by the valve and wedged back into the cylinder head. Damage was totally confined to the head. Being honest, I'm a big fan of RLTC, and I had it on my car for 8 years, equating to around 40-50,000 miles in total. Never had any issues with engine damage, and believe me, I used it! For what it's worth, IMHO, a built engine is only as good as the builder. I had a built engine in my car, built by Mig. I would like to say I helped him build it, but in reality, I just helped bolt bits together. He was very anal with clearances tolerances and cleanliness. That engine never missed a beat. Good luck with your findings. Hopefully, as in my case, it won't be too bad.

Tail

Come on guys... No body likes a loose ring:d:p

I never took you as a complex person mate If you have an AFR gauge in the car you'd see the AFR's lean off if there were a problem. In the same way as if the pump itself were dying. I've never seen the switching fail to 7v. Fail completely, but never to 7v...

Simple answer, no.

Brian is talking about the F250 that Jamie posted a link to earlier...