fredm

£24.75 is an excellent price for genuine Toyota Paul E. The Oil Filter price is correct, at least it is to me, I know the staff quite well.

£25 for an air filter is cheap. You will be paying twice that for genuine Toyota filters. My local LSUK recently supplied me with the following "Fram" manufactured parts, Oil Filter £2.60 Fuel Filter £24.50 Air Filter £29.50

Yep , only the lower rubber blocks need to be replaced. Like an idiot I ordered the top blocks too (mounted on the hatch), they are hard plastic and don't wear out. Waste of £12 that was!

Well I'm really confused now. How can the PAS,Cruise Control and Active Spoiler work correctly when their signal wire (pink) is cut and not connected to anything? I don't see how joining the pink to the input achieves anything if the pink is the output from the odometer. Is there another output to the PAS, Cruise Control and Active Spoiler?

For the fuse try a motor factors like Partco or LSUK. Even Halfords should have a Maxi Fuse on their shelves somewhere.

First thing to do is strip down the hub to investigate the causes of the free play. It probably is just the bearing but it could be more. Driving the car will only make matters worse, avoid it if possible.

Hi, I hope it does prove useful, it took me a half hour to type it up. Hope whoever is doing your Head Gasket does a good job for you. Might be a good idea to replace all those hard to get to vacuum hoses while they have got good access, most of my hoses are rock hard and badly need changing, if it's a high miler then replacing the valve seals would be wise too, in fact I would replace them anyway. All the best, Fred.

http://sitebuilder.blueyonder.co.uk/sb/fredm/1156704583.jpeg http://sitebuilder.blueyonder.co.uk/sb/fredm/1156704736.jpeg Hi all, having recently bought a 96' UK TT auto (1 month ago) and having just replaced the Radiator and Thermostat, I thought I would carry out a Temp / pressure test on the system just to make sure everything was ok and working as it should. In a previous thread I had some concerns about my temprature gauge working properly, so this test was intended to put my mind at ease. The equipment used was a Taskmaster Cooling System Tester , a Fluke 62 Infra red Digital Thermometer and a Head Gasket Sniffer Kit. The temprature readings were taken at the same point each time, the alloy pipe that connects to the top hose. From cold I started the engine and recorded the build up in Temprature and Pressure over time. Here are the results : Test started at 19c 0psi 2 mins. 33c 2psi 3 mins 42c 3psi 4 mins 52c 4psi 5 mins 58c 5psi 6 mins 66c 6.5psi 7 mins 69c 7psi 8 mins 74c 8psi 9 mins 77c 9psi 10 mins 81c 10psi 11 mins 85c 11.5psi 12 mins 86c 12psi 13 mins 87c 13psi 14 mins 87c 13.5psi 15 mins 89c 14psi 16 mins 90c 14.75psi 17 mins 92c 15.5psi 18 mins " " 19 mins " " 20 mins " " This test was done with the engine idling on my drive way. I then waited 15 minutes (had to watch the start of the Turkish F1 race) then removed the pressure tester and carried out a CO2 Test using a Head gasket Sniffer kit, the results were negative Personally I think the results are ok and indicate no problems. Interesting is how much pressure the system builds while just idling, around 15.5psi / 1.1bar / 108kpa. 1.1bar is the maximum working pressure for the radiator cap which means when I am sat in a traffic jam the system is just about working at its maximum pressure. Obviously when driving the pressure would be less due to the cooling effect of the extra air passing through the radiator. After a run I have checked the expansion tank and it is higher than when cold but after several hours it returns to it's original level as it should in a system operating correctly. The electric fan at the bottom right of the radiator never came on at all (in fact I have never known it to come on on this or my previous Supra). If the switch that operates this fan is the one in the bottom right of the rad (near the fan) it doesn't surprise me as the bottom of the rad never seems to get above 45c. The switch is new by the way, and very expensive too £50!!! So there you go, the results of a cooling system test on my car. Just thought I would share them with you, might help some one out one day.

1. paul E x 2 2. CJ x 2 3. Class One x 1 4. Gaz6148 x 1 5. Ellis x 2 6. LeeT x1 7. Gatso x 1 8. Jspec Germany x 1 9. S7EVE x 1 10.Psymon x 1 11.s crane x1 12. jazz x1 13. SimonB x 1 14 absxxxx x 1 15. Ian R x 2 16. Burna x 1 17. jim_supra x 1 18. Guru x 1 19. mr lover x 1 20. MrAngry x 1 21. Ray x 1 22. Pig x1 23. Ivan x 1 24. Lui x 1 25. Supra_Surj x 1 26. Pete x 1 27. Bondy x 1 28. Steve Green x 1 29. SteveR x 1 30. Mr T x1 31. supRo X 1 32. ~Rob~ x 1 33. Marco 1 34. EdMorris x 1 35. Ben-san® x 1 36. mrroverrover 37. Supra steeve x 1 38. Sgreen x 1 39. Rush x 1 40. cornimac x 1 41. Homer 42. Suprash x uno 43. loks x1 (delivery to HK?) 44. Kopite 45. Heyrick 46. Ewen Foster x 1 47. fredm x 1

Evening all, done a search to find the part numbers for the bulbs that indicate what position the gear lever is in but have had no joy. Does anyone know the part numbers? Local Toyota parts person wasn't much help, he said, "bring in the old one and we can try and match it." I'd prefer to have the new bulb and do the job in one go with no messing about. Are all the bulbs the same? The "D" bulb is what I'm after. Thanks.

Like you I too have recently been thinking of "upgrading" the cooling system as I needed to replace the Radiator in mine due to it leaking from corrosion at the bottom. If like me you intend doing nothing more than basic performance upgrades then I believe the standard Toyota Radiator to be perfectly capable. So I have just replaced mine with a new one from Toyota, drops straight in with no messing about. Providing the Radiator ,Thermostat , and Viscous Fan are in good condition and working properly the setup is very efficient in my opinion. Have you ever felt the bottom of the rad when the engine is at operating temprature? Mine is a luke warm 40c compared to a very hot 90c at the top. Of course the standard rad doesn't score high on the Bling Scale.

I thought you would figure it out for yourself.

When you say you have "threaded one of the screws" am I right in thinking you have damaged one of the cross point screws that hold the coil to the mounting bracket? If so don't worry, just undo the two 10mm set screws that hold the coil mounting bracket to the head and remove the coils two at a time. With the two coils mounted on the bracket in your hand (rather than on the engine) it will be far easier to get the damaged cross point screw out.

I'm just wondering where abouts the needle sits on the gauge when the engine is at normal operating temp. http://sitebuilder.blueyonder.co.uk/sb/fredm/1155926097.jpeg The needle in my car never gets any higher than this, my first thought was that the car wasn't reaching operating temperature due to a faultly Thermostat (stuck open) but I have just replaced the Thermostat and it has made no difference. I let the car idle for 20 minutes this afternoon and it never moved a millimetre. Do they all sit here or is my gauge a bit duff? The cars a 96 U.K. T.T. auto.

As you have replaced the Crank Sensor with another one I doubt this is the problem, however you should just check to make sure it's working properly. Apart from the resistance check that you have already done you should make sure that you have got at least 0.5 v ac output on cranking. Disconnect the crank sensor multiplug and measure across the two terminals with a voltmeter set on ac volts, crank the engine and you should see a rising ac voltage reaching at least 0.5 v preferably higher.

Hi, a visual inspection is easy, if you remove each wheel you should see a wire coming from the inner wheel arch area, normally clipped to the suspension that eventually attaches to a sensor mounted on the wheel hub. The sensor measures wheel rotation speed and is also used by the A.B.S. If the wires are disconnected I would have thought there would be an appropriate fault code stored.

O.k. just checked for codes and the "mil" and O/D OFF lights are flashing together giving code 42. On the Saturday I did have the odometer unit out of the dash to see why the airbag warning light was not working (no bulb fitted!) maybe I have disturbed something in that area. The soldered joints where the multiplug socket attaches looked fine to me. My symptoms seem to be different from the usual code 42 problems people have. I don't have the "mil" or the red triangle illuminated on the dash. Also I have never read anyone mention the lack of "D" illumination or their cruise control not working.

Strange one this, hopefully it is something simple. Car is a 96' UK TT. As I left the place that had just done an Air-con check / re-gas I noticed that the Dashboard was not illuminating the "D" position , the car is an auto. So wondering to myself what could be wrong and looking at the dash intermittantly to see if the "D" had come back on I noticed that the O/D OFF indicator was now flashing. The car was driving normally so I pressed the O/D OFF switch and the box dropped down into 3rd as it should, the O/D OFF light now being illuminated on the dash. Pressed the button again the box changes up into top gear the O/D OFF light goes out but then starts flashing. "Bloody hell, whats going on here?" I've only had the car two days! So I continue to drive home as the car is driving fine. Driving along a bit of dual carriageway I use the Cruise Control. Bloody hell thats stopped working too!!!! When I got home and was checking switches in the car I noticed that with the engine running the manual spoiler "down" function switch is not working. It works if the ignition is on but not with the engine running, is this normal? So there you go, no "D" light, flashing O/D OFF, no cruise control and possibly incorrect operation of the active front spoiler. I checked all the fuses no problems there, I was going to check for fault codes but I don't have the engine mil illuminated. I'll do that anyway this morning, if it turns out to be the infamous Code 42 which speed sensor should I be looking at, the one on the back of the gearbox? One thing possibly connected is that twice during the weekend while I have been checking stuff under the bonnet the active spoiler has dropped and then gone back up all by itself, I guess the ignition must have been on at the time but no one was anywhere near the switch. Spooky. Poltergiest maybe?

I was under the car yesterday checking stuff out, and remembered about this post. The smaller wire (field exciter / ind wire) is black in colour.

http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/intake/DV.htm The above link (if I have done it right) makes interesting reading, as does the whole site.

Hi , thats the "malfunction indicator light" did you by chance have the ignition switched "on" when you disconnected the ecu? Reset the ecu and it should go away, disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes usually works.

Picked up the new toy this afternoon (96' uk tt) anyway when I got home and started to fiddle with things I noticed that when I turn on the ignition there is a clicking sound (sounds like a relay) from under the drivers seat for about 45 seconds. I have never noticed it before, my 94' uk tt never did it I'm sure. Tomorrow when I have more time I will investigate further. Anyone any ideas?

Race and performance road car servicing and preparation in north Shropshire. Race and road car engine building and tuning. Suspension development and geometry specialist. Home / Work : 01948-841581 Mobile: 07971-952084 Please use direct e-mail, rather than PM's, thanks! [email protected] This should help. He lives just outside Whitchurch. If your close to Telford I will gladly take a look around it for you.

Thanks for the info.

Excellent, that is good news, thanks.