fredm

Don't open the system and vent the gas into the atmosphere FFS! There's enough shite being pumped into the atmosphere without needlessly adding to the problem. Go to your local garage or who ever does air-con and get them to evacuate the system. If the system is open to atmosphere for more than 3 hours you should replace the Drier Unit (when reconnecting back up ) as I have been told the Dessicant in there will become saturated. Should'nt cost more than a £10 to evacuate the system, the Air Drier is about £30.

Yes they do make quite a loud clicking sound, my last one was the same too.

Whifbitz is a respected company and have been trading on this forum for years, speak to them, I am sure they would'nt sell you rubbish.

Looks a bit like a Whifbitz item to me. Check out the website.

I buy my filters from my local LSUK outlet, sometimes they are Fram sometimes Mann and sometimes Crossland it depends on what is in stock at the time. Cost about £3.00.

Yep, you hit the nail on the head there JohnA. The cars are incredibly reliable (like most Japanese cars) however failure to carry out the manufacturers service instructions at the recommended intervals WILL eventually cause you a lot of money. A cars reliability reputation can also be tarnished by people fiddling with stuff they know cock all about.

Are you using the correct oil? Should be Dexron 2 or the equivalent I think. Dexron 3 is ok to use, it has supereceded Dexron 2.

At that mileage if the repair is good I would have thought £8000 any day.

Yes the Fog Light conversion could well be the cause. I just did a search on bulb failure warning and it comes up with lots on the subject. I expect you will find all you need there.

Sound like the "Bulb Failure" warning light. Check all your rear lights are working.

Incorrect. Speedo in kph is perfectly acceptable.

Do a search for Spoiler Light Flashing. Works every time.

Really ? You did that after drinking alchohol ? Well I never, who would have thought it ???

That's it , the heads coming off this afternoon ! http://www.somender-singh.com

The question you ask is impossible to answer as each engine will have been built for a specific application and it's power characteristics developed according to the designers brief. The engineers who built the V8 for the XK8 were aiming to achieve different goals than those engineers building the 2JZ GTE. The Supra engine just would not work in the XK8, the buyers of XK8's would hate it. Torque and bhp do go hand in hand, they are both related. The equation looks like this bhp = 2 x Pi x torque(ftlbs) x rpm divided by 33000 Since 2 xPi is a constant this can be shortened to bhp = torque x rpm divided by 5252 torque = bhp x 5252 divided by rpm If you have one value you can calculate the other and both bhp and torque will be the same at 5252 rpm. If you look at a dyno / rolling road printout you will see both lines cross at around 5252 rpm.

I have experienced much of the same (not replying to e-mails etc.) from Traders and Forum members alike since returning to Supra ownership a couple of months ago. I guess business must be so good they can't be bothered with the likes of me. No problem, there are plenty of other places that are happy to take my money and provide a quick, courteous and professional service. It's not really a big issue but it's annoying as it delays things unnecassarily.

Personally I would replace the Tensioner Pulley also, it may sound ok when you spin it but for what they cost (about £30) it would seem to make sense. Make sure your tensioner is working correctly with no leaks also. If I was going to keep the car for 3 or 4 years and there was around a 100k on the engine I would change the water pump aswell, it's a lot easier when theres less stuff in the way. Again, if your keeping the car while you have the coolant drained stick a new thermostat in there too. There only £25. The total could be somewhere around £300 now.

I don't understand how the wires in the holder got switched around. By holder you mean the black multiplug you can see in the foreground with the green and orange wires? Are you sure you have reconnected all of them. http://sitebuilder.blueyonder.co.uk/sb/fredm/1158997833.jpeg With the engine running, if you disconnect each coil multiplug momentarily you will find which cylinder is not firing, you can then start you investigation from there. Start with the first one you touched. Must be something simple. I always remove the coils two at a time by removing the two 10mm hex head screws, it's much easier than messing about with those little cross head screws.

Look in Club Downloads then Engine then find the thread entitled Vacuum Diagrams. Should find what you want there. You could also checkout http://www.max-boost.co.uk lots of good stuff there.

:d

The garage guy is right, there is a small metal tang (rivited to the pad) that will rub against the disc when the pads are worn down to minimum. Easy enough to check, just take a wheel off and look at the pads.

Mine will do the same every now and then. It's annoying, especially in an auto. The ISCV is clean and working as it should, checked many time for a loose / leaking vacuum hose but never found one. Next day it will be fine.

I would'nt worry about your Airconditioning system, the power loss is negligable. If the system is working correctly the compressor will be engaging and disengaging to maintain the system pressure so it is probably only working 50% of the time when the Aircon is switched on, also when you put your foot down the compressor clutch will disengage anyway to give you that little bit of extra power. The Aircon does not really affect power output at all, and as for fuel consumption I'd say negligable too. If your compressor is not cycling in and out you have a problem, your probably low on gas.

Nice wheels. Do we know what the offset is for the front, and what size tyres are fitted to the front? Thanks.