fredm

Hi JohnA, over the past couple of days I have read your description of the sequential system about 10 times, and each time I have not been able to picture just what we are trying to achieve with the EGBV mod. I now know why, for some reason every time I read your description I missed one very important sentence........ "2. The fact that the EBV also controls the prespooling of turbo #2. This is more serious, because in order to get more boost out of the whole system at low revs, you need this valve to open later." God knows why but that sentence just never seemed to register in my brain. If it had I would not be asking these stupid questions. Right, at last I can go and twiddle with things safe in the knowledge I won't destroy anything.

Hi Mike M , having re read your reply I am now in agreement with what you say here. However this bit I don't agree with. "Another thought too is that it acts as a wastegate to tubby 2 since it will be open when 2 is online" I'm pretty sure that once the EGBV has opened to pre-spool the turbo it's all over for the EGBV and it serves no other purpose due to it's position in the system.

Right, I think I have seen the light regarding the fitting of an adjustable mbc to the EGBV. I think that what we are trying to achieve is a "delay" to the pre-spooling of no.2 turbo. The longer you can delay the EGBV opening the more exhaust gases will have to flow through no.1 turbo as engine rpm increases, spinning the turbine faster thus producing more power before no.2 turbo starts to join in. I guess that little drop in boost pressure you see at about 3800 rpm is when the EGBV opens and starts to pre-spool no.2 turbo. By fitting the mbc you will in fact raise the point of this slight boost drop further up the rev range. I guess the danger here is if the EGCV opens and you have had no pre-spooling you risk damage to the turbo as it will have to spin up to very high revs from a virtual stand still. Thats it, isn't it ?

Hmmm, from the line drawing ,as far as I can see the only exhaust gases that will ever go through the EGBV will be those from the no.2 turbo. And as for the EGBV acting as a sort of waste gate for no.2 turbo well I don't see how it could as the valve is situated on the exhaust side of the turbine rather than engine side. The reason I would like to sort this out is because I have just fitted a full decat pipe and would now like to increase the boost a little. I bought myself a couple of Manual Boost Control valves, one for the Waste Gate and one for the EGBV. I have fitted one to the waste gate (see pic's in my garage) and set it to 1 bar and am very happy with the results. It's like driving a completely different car now at full throttle. I have also plumbed in the other MBC into the pressure side of the EGBV but not adjusted it to any set pressure yet. Before fiddling with the MBC I have over the past couple of days tried to read as many article's as I could about mod's to the EGBV, of which there are many, so as to do things correctly and not destroy anything in the process. However, the more I read and the more I look at pictures of the sequential set up the more I think intercepting the pressure signal to the EGBV actuator is a waste of time. As far as I can see the function of the EGBV is to pre-spool the no.2 turbo and that is it's only function and as such should be left alone to do it's job. Am I missing something ?

EGBV This allows some exhaust gas to bypass the EGCV and join the output of the first turbo. It serves two purposes - one, it prespools the second turbo by allowing some exhaust gas flow through it. Two, it controls the amount of exhaust gas going through the first turbo in much the same way as a wastegate - therefore controlling the maximum boost pressure generated by #1 turbo. The above is a description of the EGBV in the FAQ. bit of the Technical Section. Now I don't have a problem with the bit about providing pre-spooling of the no.2 turbo but what I just can't see is how it controls the amount of gas going through no.1 turbo. Looking at the line drawing provided with the description I just don't see how it can effect no.1 turbo at all. Can anyone enlighten me ?

Are you saying bits of the compressor gone "through" the intercooler and ended up into the engine ? Thats amazing, I'd love to see a picture of that. Bits of turbine going back through the exhaust valve I can imagine as they were probably spinning at 100,000 revs at the time. You have my sympathy Nic.

The ABS light must come on when the ignition is switched on, it should then go off about 2 seconds later. The garage is correct.

I have heard that you can use "conductivity" measured with a dmm to give you an idea as to how well your antifreeze is performing, I'm not sure what readings would be classed as good or bad though. I have a feeling it's not too accurate though. I suspect you will agree that the prefered method is a Refractometer. But anyway, I thought I'd post up my results for your interest. Positive dmm probe onto battery + Negative dmm probe into Rad coolant 12.35v ########### into Expansion Tank 9.5v ###########onto cylinder head 12.35 Interestingly if you connect Negative dmm probe to battery -ve and then probe rad coolant with +ve probe I got 0.3v Cold engine,not used for a week. Coolant, Toyota oem 3 months old. As for the parasitic drain on the battery, with a dmm set to dc amps placed in series with the -ve battery terminal and -ve lead I have 0.03amps drain. My car is standard with no gizmo's fitted, the oem alarm/immobiliser has been binned, no remote locking for me. I have left my car for 3 weeks and it starts like it was last used the day before. My previous 94 UK could also be left for a fortnight with no problems, that too had the standard immobiliser/alarm disconnected. As you say you must have a drain somewhere. Happy hunting!

If I'm reading this correct, you definately have a good spark and the plugs get wet with fuel after cranking. Everything seems to be working as it should? Had something very similar the other day with an XJ8. Turned out the guy had cranked the engine so much after flooding the engine that "bore wash" had occurred. The bore wash produced such low compression the engine did'nt even attempt to fire. Take the plugs out and make sure they are absolutely dry, then drop about a tablespoon of engine oil into each plug hole. Put the plugs back in and turn the key. Good luck.

18x8 18x8 kinda gives it away.

Check out some of the insurance ad's in the back of Classic Car Magazine, I'm sure you will find a specialist who will do you a suitable policy.

I'm after the "L" shaped trim panel that sits on the transmission tunnel. It forms part of the surround for the Auto lever (it's the rear and left side) the rear part butts up against the lid for the storage area that your elbow normally rests on. Thanks.

If you look in the section marked "club downloads" you will find some wiring diagrams which might help you out. As for the passenger window your going to have to remove the door card (easy) and check to see if the motor is getting any power when the switches are operated, maybe a plug has fell off, you never know. As for central locking, for starters check the fuse.

Glad you got it sorted. Well done absxxxx your ability to diagnose faults is truly remarkable. I bow to your superior skills.

The tension mounts, as the contestants await the outcome........

No I'm not. The sudden increase in flywheel speed (caused by thr engine trying to start) will cause the starter pinion to be thrown out of engagement, this is normal and correct. Eg. cylinder 1 glowplug good, fires ,engine speed increases cylinder 3 glowplug good, fires, engine speed increases starter pinion thrown out of flywheel cylinder 4 glowplug no good, does not fire, engine dies I have seen it loads of times, before dropping out the starter motor check the easy to get to things first. If one of the glow plugs are a bitch to get to, leave it, just do the other three. If you find a faulty one replace it (I would do the lot, they all do the same amount of work) and try it again. Doing volt drop checks on the starter circuit takes 5 minutes, checking glowplugs takes 5 minutes if you have an ampclamp, half an hour if you haven't. If after checking for the above faults you haven't cured it then dropping out the starter is the next thing. All I'm saying is, I would not start there.

I just had another listen to the sound file and I stick to what I said.

If the engine tries to start the starter pinion will be spun out of engagment with the Flywheel, the pinion will continue to turn for a second, you just don't hear it normally because the engine is running.

Check the battery earth cables too. Engine earth and chassis earth. Do a volt drop check, neg. terminal on battery to engine. Crank starter, should be no more than 0.5 volts. Check the positive side too. Do a search I'm sure checking the starter circuit has been covered before.

For starters are you absolutely sure that your battery is in tip top condition ? A duff battery can give those symptoms. Secondly it could be your heater plugs, pull them out and check, even if only one is biffed it can give those symptoms. Or, if the above is ok then it looks like the Starter has seen better days.

Sounds to me like the plugs are fouled with petrol. Pull a plug out, if it's soaking wet with petrol your going to have to pull the rest and dry them off.

Mine suffers from random idle speed too. I cleaned up the ISCV (wasn't dirty though) and it hasn't made much difference. It idles at about 1000 rpm which is a pain with an auto then 2 minutes later it's working properly at 650 rpm. I guess I'll just have to buy a new ISCV and see if that cures it.

That does look good. Are they 10x18 and 9x18 ? The fronts have a nice lip. Are you on standard suspension ?

Roller brake testing a car fitted with a LSD can cause serious damage. The brakes should be tested on the road using something like a Tapley Meter. The geezer doing the test may not know the Supra has one so you should always point it out to him.

I do hope they did'nt brake test your car using the rollers !