Gazzawu

passed my mot:) The joints between the 1st cat and decat pipe was loose. anyway thanks for offering help guys

found this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SUPRA-GEAR-BOX_W0QQitemZ4594825417QQcategoryZ10428QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

no i said ive changed both sensors. theyve done only about 100miles

changed plugs a couple of months ago. along with distributor cap and rotor, oil, filter, spark plug wires and both lambda sensors. i knew i was running rich before i had the lambda sensors changed and that cleared up. results from last years mot were: CO 0.24%vol passed HC 127ppm passed Lambda 1.03 passed and that was when i was running rich. I live in the city centre and most of my journeys are short so there must be a lot of fuel sitting about in the injectors or something. need to use some redex and fuel treatment. but what can account for the higher lambda readings?

rite anybody got a 2nd cat i can borrow or is on the cheap that i can afford to buy? preferably one from an NA but think the TT will fit

rite failed emissions test. here are the results: CO 0.01%vol passed HC 70ppm passed Lambda 1.22 failed (limit 1.03) I decatted the 2nd cat and i think there is a leak in the exhaust. but will help greatly if anybody can borrow me their 2nd cat. mines is an NA but i think the 2nd cat shares the same design with the jspec tt. all expenses paid for if required.

i think most items on the mkiii na will be compatible. but the shift fork is slightly shorter on the mkiii and also the shifter assembly is different. the mkiv has a shorter shifter than the mkiii. u mite need the mkiv bellhousing. everything else seems to be the same. even the clutch is compatible between the mkiii and mkiv. but remember to use the mkiii na tranny cos it has the w58 and not the turbo version cos that uses an r154 which will def not fit.

this mite help u a bit. a few guys from supraforums use this as a guide. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/auto_to_6spd_swap/index.html

actualy the car should work fine with the auto ecu. i think u mite be able to reuse that driveshaft or slightly modify it. there are a couple of members here who done the swap. a good gearbox specialist who at least know wot they're doing will be able to give u a quote for labour. i was quoted between £300-£400. parts wise will be difficult because there arent that many manual na supras and u mite have to source the parts from various breakers before u will have the complete list. are u sure u didn get ur prices from twin turbo members? cos the v160 getrag 6spd gearbox from tt will definitely cost more than ur w58 gearbox na. and the mkii and mkiii na supra also used the w58 gearbox and u can get a cheapy one from ebay for like £60.

well if u know anybody who can make a good job of it then i will be well interested. i think someone in supraforums managed to do. but there was a lot of time and effort put into it. i think the guy produced an adaptor to fit it but there was leaks everywhere.

if u go to a gearbox specialist, the labour would prob be about £400. parts wise is quite a big list and will prob set u back at £500-£700

well an aerotop is nice but theyre all auto. and the auto tranny in an na just wont hold on to high hp. the tt auto tranny can handle up to about 550hp i believe. so if u were to convert it to turbo the most the gearbox will hold will be up to is about 300bhp. and turbo kit plus tuning will add up a few grand (£4-5k). insurance will be ridiculous cos adding a turbo to an na is a big mod (prob few grand for insurance). in saying that at the end of the day u will be paying almost as much as a stock tt. if u want any more hp u will have to rebuild that auto tranny or put in a manual tranny which can hold that much hp.

think the SE version is the lightweight version of the NA model. in the states there are loadsa na-t kits out there. Most ppl prefer the DaveH kit which is a good budget kit. The boostlogic one seems to be the best constructed one out of the lot though. loads of dedicated users on supraforums.com on the na section have gone turbo so u will be better seeing them. In the UK insurance would be way too expensive to go na-t so most ppl dont bother and buy a TT instead. hope this helps

get the alignment and tracking sorted out. then if symptoms persist check the subframe bolts are tight. how many miles have u done?

white smoke? is that not meant to be steam thats coming out? prob cos u got coolant in the engine shit worse case blown head gasket.

get a cone filter like a k&n type or the injen one. i got a hks one and it does nothing. some guys from the forum say that ur better off with a stock box because u will be sucking in hot air from the engine with an aftermarket filter. but i think if u get enough of those intake pipes and hook the cone close to the vent near ur bumper and add in a heatshield then u will bring in loadsa cold air. but if ur gonna do that watch out in case water gets in. also u can reduce air intake heat by doing the coolant bypass mod.

ok problem solved if any of u guys cant afford to buy two o2 sensors from toyota cos ur a poor student like me then just buy the bosch universal type. cos mines is a single wired type u will have to get the single wired type.....doh! the bosch part number is 0258 986 501 only £35 each. so just remove the old ones with a 12mm wrench and splice the new ones onto the wire leading to the harness. let the car idle for 20 mins and thats u. by the way u will need an adapter plate to fit them in cos the toyota ones are welded in theyre like a £5 from thor.

its 58 quid from thor. does anyone know wot i can do now that i got a 4 wire sensor and the ones on my car is a single wire? is there any wires ok to join together?

rite im just gonna do the one change and order another one for next wk. removed the sensor and unplugged the harness. cut the wire and wtf its only got one wire. I thought we're supposed to have like 4wires or something. wot shall i do?

rite my car has been drinking petrol and is running like 10mpg. i ordered one o2 sensor from thor and was gonna do the swap. but im like wtf there seems to be 3 of these bloody bastards. 2 under the bonnet and one behind the 1st cat. am i rite? anyway is there a way to tell which one is the fecked up one? and are they all the same types of oxygen sensor?

just keep the plugs at a rating of 5. dont think there is much of a difference between iridiums and platinum. iridiums prob last twice as long as platinums. as for gap just keep it at 1-1.1mm. HT leads just keep oem ones because i dont think u will notice much of a difference cos ur N/A. think they're £80 from toyota. as for ur distributor bits check how much corrosion there is. sometimes u can get away with just scraping the top layer with ur keep if its just a little bit.

ive looked at the wiring diagram on mkiv.com everthing went fine until i noticed that pin #66 is blanked off. checked the apexi website and it points to pin #62 instead. are these different between the jdm spec and the us spec? also do i definitely cut half the wire on 66/62 so that there is still connection between the harness and ecu whilst the bits cut off will join the safc?

how the heck do u disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel filter? i take it u dont turn the bolt next to the filter itself but the outer one instead. bolt just wont budge. tried spraying wd40 and rattling the bolts a few times with no luck

why dont u do it urself? engine oil, coolant and tranny fluid change is pretty simple. spark plugs are more annoying than the TT cos the TB is in the way but it only took me like 3hrs to do it the 1st time. takes me just over 30mins to change plugs now. cambelt is prob the only tricky one and changing that alone will prob set u back £80 alone with a good independent garage.

No error codes on my NA 97 supra . got a weak spark though. changed and regapped spark plugs. changed spark plug leads before diagnostics. i then had the distributer rotor (was nearly 90% corroded) changed. so far not any noticeable difference. any other bits i should at?