absz
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Everything posted by absz
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MAX LINE means that it should not be filled above that. thats why its there for. pass that on to kwik-fit if you can ps mobil 1 is to thin for the supra.
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The part number for the connector housing is 90980-11246, is that the part number at toyotas, cause had same problem but was told by toyotas that its part of the wiring loom and wont come seperate.
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there should be a axle code on the chassis plate which relates to which diff is fitted to your car as there are a few with different ratio's. if you can post that number i'll have a look as i do have one.
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sounds like diff problems? but you need to jack the car so the wheels can rotate freely and check if there is movement in the diff by slowly turning one of the wheels.
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i got 3 points+ 60 fine for doing 97 in a 70
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i changed a j-spec 6 speed clutch on a 1994 tt and that was defo a single plate clutch, standard.
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i guess i was beaten to it for the pics, but here we go
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ha ha
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cj i'll try that tommorow if it does't work then i will have a reason to sue
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i bought a set from toyotas last week for £127.17+vat if u still need pics of the uk ones i can post them up. let us know and i'll take some pics
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sounds like ignition timing ? the first thing you should do is remove the distributor cap and give it a good clean. also check if its not damp in there and no signs of cracks in cap.
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could be the rear pads are low, make sure to check both inner and outer pad for wear, ps when was the handbrake shoes last checked ? and cleaned.
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as above and the other one is near the bulkhead passenger side,can't remember which is the high and which is the low side but the valves are different sizes so you can't get it wrong
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if the cells are leaking then you should replace the battery. the acid in the cells will start eating into your paintwork around the battery tray,
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i bought a car once, got it cheap as it was bit sluggish, when i removed the air filter box i found two pairs of boxer shorts in with the filter.
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defo the hazard switch plug
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as above tapley meters have to be carried by every mot test station. i should know as i also do mot testing. if you willing to drive down to bedfordshire then i can help
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g10 normally works well if you machine polishing. i think g3 might be a bit coarse.
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i'm going through the same trouble at the moment with mercedes, a mate had his car booked in for a misfire? after them changing a coilpack and changing the fuel injector wiring for £345+parts they now tell him that he needs a new ecu at a cost of £900+labour. after me going down there in person to demand a see the dianostic reports, they tell me that the technician who was working on the car is now on holiday and will try to get me copys of the dianostic printouts.
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your side lights should stay on when ignition is off . its part of the mot test for them to work in that manner
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Slight knocking noise when putting foot down hard..
absz replied to Markie's topic in mkiv Technical
if i was you i'll get it checked by a garage asap before you do more damage. can't take chances on your engine mate. -
when i done mine i just gave it a once over with a abrasive pad and then just sprayed it with high build primer to hide imperfections it worked fine .
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i think ian should provide some training coarses for the main dealers as they are only trained on how to change filters. and normally have one guy employed as the dianostic technician who just specializes in pluging in a dianostic machine which they hope tells them want to do next.
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yeah to yeading
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i think that the plugs on the back are different for the fuel/temp gauge side. and the wire colours are different as well, so you need to the the wiring diagram set up and the loom plugs of the unit you fitting.
