absz
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Everything posted by absz
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Before spending on a new rad and water pump,buy yourself a cheap combustion leak tester http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Block-test-kit-for-petrol-and-diesel-engines-original-combustion-leak-tester-/181059430832?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a27fba9b0 and a compression test gauge to make sure its not the headgasket.
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:)Sounds like rad cap
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I have a Aem v1 in my supra with no problems i know syvecs is a better ecu. but what are the problems that has made the aem so crap.cannot be bothered to read the links:)
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Slipping clutch packs or torque converter can also cause high temps, but that will cause driving issues and turn the colour of the oil brown with a strong smell of burnt oil. EDIT: make sure the oil pipes are not kinked and causing a restriction in the flow as you have a additional cooler plumbed in.
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220 degrees seems a bit high.Either the fluid is expanding,too much heat or it might be overfilled. Check level when hot. what fluid are you running the transmission with?
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Silly question but has your timing gun got buttons to calibrate it, normally run the engine adjust gun so it reads zero then you press the trigger to get the correct reading.
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What is it, something from the intercooler pipes ??
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This might help http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Bearings/CL77-3-402.pdf
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Done:)
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You will normally have to rev the engine slighty at idle to feel the pedal creep down on MOST diesel engines. if you keep pumping the pedal at idle then it will loose the vaccum which is built up by the pump and pedal will go hard quite normal.
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Thats good save me time in looking at aftermarket filters:)
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In the process of fitting my fuel system for a single turbo setup aiming for approx 650fwhp. gone for a bosch 044 pump/ -8 fuel feed and return lines/hks rail with 800cc injectors and aeromotive regulator. Just wondering if the oem fuel filter is capable of flowing enough fuel for a single.Also does anyone know what micron the oem filter is.
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Bridge the FP + B+ wires together in the diagnostic port located in the engine bay that should run the fuel pump bypassing the ecu trigger.
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Fuel pressure if you have a gauge should be approx 36psi give or take with ignition on. normally with a crank sensor fail it will either not start at all or will back fire.
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Can you hear the fuel pump ?
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So much for my reading skills LOL . no need to restrict oil flow and yes it will be oil cooled.
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Stick a 1.2bar restrictor ring inplace after the downpipe should be fine. I went down the same route a few years ago doing everything on the cheap xs power turbo kit and piggyback ecu,secondhand injectors ended up blowing my engine and spending twice as much putting things right so be warned.
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No need to lower engine, Support the rear transmission mounting bracket using a jack and undo the mounting bolts then lower the jack down slighty that will give you all the room you need to gain access to the top bell housing bolts.
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You are on the wrong forum. here you go http://www.driftworks.com/forum/forum.php
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Flowtest Bosch 044,Walbro 416lph, Walbro 255lph, Denso 950-0155
absz replied to Mario's topic in mkiv Technical
Flowing that much fuel as the 416lph will most proberly require some sort of fuel cooler or you may suffer vapour lock -
Constant drip from were? compressor outlet.
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hello and welcome to the mad house:D
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depends on mileage,its quite normal to have excessive oil build up in the intercooler pipes on diesels that i have seen. remove piping from intercooler and flush out. also clean map sensor that should be fitted to the pipe that goes to the inlet body. see how you get on before going down the turbo route.
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Bolted infront of the ac condenser behind bumper,normally removed if you have a FMIC.
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There should be a AC condenser fan fitted in front of the AC rad its a metal one,I have a TT but i'm sure my NA had one aswell.
