absz

looking at the pictures it seems that the metal is cast ally, so you will need a good tig welder to do this or it will just melt away when welding.

as stated above the output amperage is different but you can fit them to any motor (supra)

i had the same problem with a renualt clio today with this fault:d

IF the engines cranks over and will not start when hot and the rpm is also not normal then the FIRST thing i will check will be the coolant sensor.

you should be able tax the car at your dvla office submitting a v62 form. i have done this many times when buying cars from auctions with no v5 log book.

IF all the fuses are fine including the 120amp alternator fuse. then i would start with the alarm circuit first.

might be too far for you but this is the company i have used before. they charge £38+vat for a plug in gearbox diagnostic check. http://www.automaticgearbox.biz/

Right lets start again:) there is a solenoid in the gearbox (brake solenoid) that normally fails causing these symtoms. but more common is the wiring to the solenoids inside the box. with gearbox centres they will qoute you for a recon box which normally is a safer way than striping the box and something else going wrong at a later date.

Its not the gearbox but the dual mass flywheel on these that fail. will cause clutch slip problems. IF the flywheel lets go it can damage the bell-housing. SORRY IGNORE ME THOUGHT IT WAS A MANUALLY ^^^

you need to check the wires at the back of the alternator to make sure one is not broken in the connector plug. also the wire that feeds the bulb goes through a connector plug on the passenger side footwell were the ecu loom comes into the cab. its either a orange plug or white, cannot remember. make sure the connector plugs are locked tight.

i'm in luton

hiya if i can be of any help just pm me, i work for a garage but do private servicing sometimes

1/ problems no warm air from heater--CHECK level of coolant,possible blocked heater matrix ? 2/centrel locking is not working -- check fuses in the footwell but i beleive the electric windows share the same fuse . so might be a feed problem at the switch socket. 3/ horn proberly faulty.

If you have the skills and just what to go for the qualification then the bosch diagnostic technician programme is a good one becoming an ATA approved technician at the end. very good course on modern stuff but its not cheap. link added http://www.boschautoparts.co.uk/trDiag1.asp?c=4&d=4&programmeID=1

IF its the crank sensor or feed to/from sensor then the rev counter needle when not bounce when cranking over. you should see the needle move. if thats ok then check to see that you have the positive feed to coilpacks with ignition on.

Remove the distributor cap first and clean the inside of the cap make sure its nice and dry in there with no oil residue, as that can cause problems in damp conditions. also if replacing the spark plugs give the plug leads a twist before you pull them off the plugs or you can end up damaging the leads if they are on tight.

yep as long as the fronts are the same and rears same theres no problems:)

that might be the problem then:) and will proberly damage another amplifer. P.S if using a secondhand coil then i will definitely get a scope test done on it with engine running. a resistance check on any coil will ONLY give a indication that the coil will fire ie spark, not the performance of it.

You need to get someone to check the firing KV of the ignition system using a oscilloscope to find out what is really happening, check the resistance of the coils against each other IF one has a lower resistance than the others then it will draw more current, which will lead to ignition amplifer failure due to heat. the ecu will only give a low current signal to the amplifer to trigger the coils so cannot see it being the problem. also check the voltage at the coils with ignition ON they should all be the same, IF you have a low voltage at one coil compared to the others that can also have a effect on current draw that will damage a coil.

I have one of these gaskets yet to fit. the only problem i can see is that the gasket is made out of plastic and i'm not sure IF it will seal well on the mating surfaces. proberly will need some sort of gasket paper in between.

Very good choice of wheels

not having a go. just pointing out that these are service items, and YES trackrods are checked on a service including all the other suspension/brakes/steering etc etc. MOT inspection is not the only inspection a car should rely on.

Its only failed on items that should have been done on a service ? being french has nothing to do with it:p

get a RIPPLE test done on the charging system of you're car to make sure its not the alternator damaging the battery cells, 2 years for a battery seems like a poor show.

won't be going to the japshow this weekend just getting lazy i guess, i normally cover approx 2k miles a year on it. Mas is normally active on the forum but i think that he is still in Dubia. do you still keep in contact with Ro ?