absz
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Everything posted by absz
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do you have a wiring diagram that i can look at to see were the feeds come from? as the last time i stuck my head under a NA engine bay was over 6 years ago, i'm sure that the ignition feed is direct from ignition switch to fuse and then to MAIN ecu. if you have lost power feeds it can be alarm wiring or fusebox connector plugs as a guess.
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the tahco (rev counter) is also fed via the crank sensor, when cranking the engine over IF the rev counter needle is bouncing slighty then it means you have a crank signal and the sensor + wiring are fine.
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No the igniter will only control the spark. the crank sensor is part of the distributor, it can be tested using a multimeter but not sure which wires from the top of my head.
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The engine management light is fused in the footwell fuse box 7.5amps not sure which one but it also feeds the MAIN ecu check to see if you have voltage. also the fuel pump ecu has a live feed via relay BUT has another signal feed that comes from the MAIN ecu if there is no crank signal the ecu will not switch the pump on. or create a SPARK
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Its the flywheel! (automatic)
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If you have any coolant in your system and not sure what it is then drain and flush the system out. the longlife coolants are not compatible with the likes of the blue antifreeze(ethanediol) if mixed the coolant can loose its corrosion resistance capabilitys or worse case forma a gelling type liquid.
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HC are fine!
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its only just failed the emissions 0.3 is the limit. as above give the pads a clean
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keep the towing speed low (below 30mph) and you should be fine. its the oil pump in the gearbox that starts to wind up and it feels as the brakes are draging if you do get a problem.
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You should of had the percentage of imbalance max is 25% depending on that you might get away with removing the pads cleaning the pins and pistons. also what was the emission printout did it fail on c0 levels ?
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Well done Ash, thats some great power from a small engine. is that you driving the car or the son?
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The radio controls from the steering wheel are CANBUS the only thing in common with the airbag unit is the clock spring the multi-plug which connects under the steering wheel and the main ignition feed, so check ALL fuses thats all you can do. also has it the orignal steering wheel fitted or has someone upgraded to say a S-line
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Thats great, i'm not too fussed about the cost as the company is paying for it:d
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Chris how do you find the kts machine as i'm thinking of buying one (pc based) i have been on all the bosch diagnostic courses but every time we used the tablet based machine we had problems. PS sorry for the hijack
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yep its quite common on the toYota diesel models were all the lights come on when alternator stops charging,its normally due to one of the small wires on the alternator plug having a bad connection resulting in back feeding, most garages replace the alternator but normally unpluging it and refitting does the trick!
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Really! I cannot see the alternator causing the oil warning/brake warning/ etc to come on, I stand corrected:taped:
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The alternator not charging will only illuminate the battery light not any of the others that are mentioned, possible bad earth or loose battery terminals will be my first check.
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You can apply 12volts to pin 1 of the coil to see if you gain a spark while cranking.
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How are you checking the power feed? ie multimeter if so connect one probe to the battery negative and use other probe on the coil pins to see if there is voltage,If you have no voltage then it can be a fuse/alarm or even a broken wire issue.
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you should have a 12v feed to the coil via ignition and a negative which is only triggered via the distributor,If the 12v postive feed is there then its more than likely a distributor problem.
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check the condition of the coilpack clips,misfire on boost is normally related to coilpacks due to increased current draw required to jump the spark plug gap on boost.
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The white plastic part retains the pins in position,by removing this its more than likely that the wires will pull out and give you a bad contact causing future misfires or non starting problems.
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There should be a rubber seal around the male side of the plug,make sure its not come off and wedged in the female plug stopping it going further!!
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replace rad cap,Also has it got the right 50/50 mix of coolant or was it topped up with just water?
