absz
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Everything posted by absz
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made some room in my mailbox:) theres no rush on my part so i can wait till you get a confirmation from the other person.
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Dual mass flywheel maybe?
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thats fine please pm me if still available and i'll make payment
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i'll take it please sir, can you forward me your paypal details will require it posting.
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..
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its not the easy you will have to program the ecu to the car
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i've owned a 996 4s 6 speed as mentioned by others as long as it has the uprated bearing and emits no blue smoke you will be fine, now have a 997 2s 3.8
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Thats all fine if you know how to test each and every sensor on the car, every componet emits noise signals its very easy doing all the tests on a training course test rig but live testing on a car is a different story. trouble is IF a garage spends all day testing all the sensors on a customers car and finds one faulty sensor but charges a days labour then the customers are not happy with the price they are paying for a sensor replacement. hence why most garages dont get involved in advance scope testing.
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Does sound like the high pressure pump but you will need some pressure test kits to varify that. the AFM on a diesel is only used for engine load calculations so you can disconnect the plug and it will use a base map in the ecu so will still run,fault in the egr will cause heavy black smoke and lack of power but again will still run. i'm not sure if that engine has a electric pump in the tank for priming if so that can also cause poor starting and cutting out but when engine is running you will not be able to rev the engine to max.
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diesel is a oil based fuel so the high pressure pump&injectors are lubricated with the diesel fuel, petrol has no lubrication capabilitys so the high pressure pump in a diesel car suffers first. normally a tank drain and new fuel filter does the trick but long term the injectors and pump will fail due to lack of lubrication even if its run for a short while, the diesel particular filter will also overheat as its not designed to burn off petrol tempertures. the turbo will not be affected the noise can just be a boost pipe leaking.
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on a recall they will only replace the parts that the vehicle has been called back for, as thats what the manfacturer will pay, anything else will be additional
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quality of the picture is not that good but gives you a good idea.
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check the wiring loom plugs under the passenger footwell were the ecu loom is to make sure that you have clipped them in all the way. the alternator charging circuit is either the white or grey plug.
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silly question but are you using the correct markings on the camshaft pulleys.
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its the white pip the yellow one is for checking the ignition timing with engine running
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I normally fit the belt to the crank pulley first then route it round the intake cam then exhaust cam and all the slack ends up at the tensioner side.
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Chris i have done a couple of supras now with this fault both single turbos and the crankbolt was tight on both.not sure on the cause but only needed to replace the crank gear.i have tig welded the one for my car just as a safe guard.
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The only problem i can see is ground clearance as the sump will, i guess sit lower than the subframe which will increase the likelyhood of damage over road humps
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Here you go,crank gear
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Its the part were the timing belt is fitted to, its what spins round when engine is runnning and the crankshaft sensor gets its signal from. the crank pulley is the part the alternator/water pump belt spins on.
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its the crank gear whats needed not the pulley, the star ring can be welded back on if its not damaged.
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should be spot on the marks, make sure ALL the slack on the timing belt is towards the idler pulley side before you pull the tensioner pin on the hydraulic tensioner.
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I've got a pair of JCB fastrac calipers, big enough for you?
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Might be wrong but i'm sure they are hydraulic lifters and not shims,the head on these engines were designed for unleaded fuel so the valve seats are case hardened. might be worth resetting the fault code by disconnecting the battery for 5mins then run the engine for a while and read the fault codes again.
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Are you bridging the correct pins, seems odd how the idle creeps.
