absz

1. Josh42 - Staffordshire 2. blythmrk - Derbyshire/Yorkshire 3. erachter - West Sussex 4. Mike2JZ - Zimbabwe 5. Ben_harmer32 - West Sussex 6. Safcdixon - Durham 7. AdamAMG - Mars 8. Tayr - Uranus/Hampshire 9. Lewmc93 - Merseyside / The TSS 10. Mwilkinson - Hampshire 11. m12aak - Leicester 12. Kev.O - Bristol 13. Samurai 20V - South Africa, Durban 14. Trebor69 - Swadlincote 15. Drift_bear - Aberdeen 16. Harrypm82 - Manchester 17. bonus_2000 - Kent 18. Sukhy - Wolverhampton 19. Dnk - Dunk - Redditch 20. Noz - Devon 21. Jim_supra - East Yorkshire 22. Jord - Oxford 23. Style - Newcastle 24. MrGRT - Berkshire 25. kolb - Estonia 26. Swampy - Lincolnshir 27. HamzaHKhan - London 28. WayneW - Belgium 29. sebas - Poland atm 30. Annabella - Lancashire 31. Foxx - Leicestershire 32. Auzzam - London 33.->K1 - France 34. mellonman - SE LondoN 35. Darren - East Sussex 36. Hamilton- Worcestershire 37. absz-Bedfordshire

NA Supra's have the crank pulse sensor built into the distributor which controls spark. when cranking over the engine see if you can spot the rev counter needle bouncing slightly as that's from the crank signal.

I'll start by rechecking the 10amp Ecu fuse located in drivers footwell. but with that blown the car should still crank over?

Some of us old timers are still around lol

Hi Looking for a engine block ideally a 2jzgte but will consider GE. lightly scored bore will be fine as looking to machine out to 87mm building a spare short block as a spare.

If the tensioner and idler are fine then check the crankshaft endfloat if you can.i had a similar issue a few years ago and was due to Crankwalk. Was running a heavy clutch with approx 600bhp.

You let the cat out of the Bag:d

If its the car, I think it is.Then both rear Quarters are repairable will need a replacement wing and door on passenger side.it hasn't been hit too hard to damage any subframes or running gear. also looking at the Vin plate its originally a v160 with a 5-speed gearbox fitted now

Unfortunately it’s a tricky one to comment about without looking at the engine in person. But I would be measuring the distance off how far the seal is pushed in past the seal retainer to make sure it’s a true fitment.also make sure the seal Lip is still pointing inwards and not flipped out which can happen without using a seal fitting tool. Check crankshaft endfloat. And also make sure crankshaft is not distorted by measuring the flange end with a DTI gauge. Others options could be excessive blow-by In crankcase. These are basic checks for any mechanics so I’m sure it’s probably done?

Do you have any pictures of the Leak ? close up

If you have a small groove in the crank were the seal is seated you can normally press the seal further in about 2mm to clear the groove,so sealing lip is on a non worn section.

I'm looking for a shroud only if you willing to split?

Any not fussed

Hi Looking for a Viscous/fan and shroud if anyone has one

maybe a loose spark plug ? I'm sure those heat tubes can be screwed out the cylinder head and give you a better chance in getting to plug

list 1 jim 2 Absz 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

£400

Payment sent

I'll Take it

New coil pack connectors x6 forth inline

It’s not worth running a standalone Ecu on BPU level but if you are going for bigger injectors and higher boost levels on a hybrid turbo then it’s worth looking into, Also you might have to keep the standard Ecu piggy backed in place to control the Auto box although the Aem does/can control the box it’s not very smooth.

Selling my Aem V1 ecu for 2JZGTE as I'm upgrading to a Syvecs Now Sold

There is a push button switch on the drivers window switch control panel that isolates the passenger window make sure its not push in

Thanks all I took mellonman's advise and bought the switches/knobs and resistors instead:)

Depending on how many positions on switch you have to solder resistors of a certain value between each pin linking them which isn't a problem but then finding Numbered dials and knobs to suit the switch I'm finding difficult:)