Probby

It's the male @Mike2JZI'm after.

Cheers Mike, It's the green plug in shot here. Like I say the bottom right pin is still in place so it looks grand from the front. If you know what tool you need to get them out and what crimp they are I'll happily order some. Equally, am hoping they are similar to the ones on my Subaru so I can pinch one off the spare loom there

@Mike2JZcheers I've just seen your message. I ended up using a bore scope to find the top slider you were on about. As soon as I pushed the green connector out of it the blue/yellow wire appeared - crimped bit has corroded leaving the pin in the plug. Id really like to re-pin it but that's gonna be an absolute arse to get to. I'm also not sure what pins those plugs take ...

Hi there, I have an issue where I have no permanent live through to the stereo/antenna etc. I've traced it to the green/orange plugs (GC1/AC1) respectively. It looks like whatever bridges the orange plug to the green plug is down as I have no continuity between the two but have continuity between the battery and and the green plug and the orange plug to the antenna/stereo power. The junction box is in the passenger side footwell however it's pretty tough to move around. Does anyone knows what I need to remove to get it out ? I've disconnected all the plugs and taken out the bolt but wonder if there are any other hidden fixings ? Thanks in advance

Thanks Ric, I'll give him a shout !

Hi folks. Is there anyone in the UK doing good quality LED retrofits for Supra headlights? Obviously UK legal retrofit (I'm aware they need to be below a certain wattage to be legit, and obviously in the right housing) Thanks,

Even with the high miles someone had a bit of a steal at £16k. If you fancied a ULEZ compliant one could always get an import and hope it dodges the ULEZ charge

Hi Dumfriez, it's an odd one but does it only happen weh nyou turn the wipers on ? Those guys use a fair amount of juice so wondering if its batter/alternator related? Perhaps check they are both healthy and take it from there ? Does it idle ok when it does run ?

You're not really looking for the ECU at this point, more concentrating on the connectors on top of the coil plugs themselves and anything back towards the bulkhead of the car. A main dealer will likely have no idea about these cars, most of the folks who work on them at main dealers weren't even about when they stopped production You may need to have it transported to a specialist at this point. Unless you have a very talented auto electrican locally (or a mechanic who does old school diagnostics rather than just plug a computer in and assume it will tell them the answer) I'd be quite choosy who works on it next.

Sounds like a coil(or coils) aren't sending back an IGF signal to the ECU and the ECU is killing the engine. If it's running good (allbeit briefly) that would be my first guess on the limited info you've given. That could simply be down to corroded/bad connectors between the coolpacks and ECU. Check those and clean if they look coroded inside (e.g. rust/corrosion) bit of isopropyl alcohol and a decent brush which can get in there should do it. This is worth a read. https://automotivetechinfo.com/2021/07/how-to-find-toyota-ignition-system-faults-fast-dotting-the-igfs-and-crossing-the-igts/ Good luck

Hey @norman1979it wasn't that one I was interested in

Hi folks, joined with the intention of speaking to someone about a car for sale on the classifieds section but have no idea how long it'll take for me to be able to post in there or message someone. Can anyone help?