Probby

I'm no expert by any means but have you checked the battery and alternator are well? Those sound like an odd combination of lights and usually odd is grounds/battery power. My other thoughts run to the ECU being poorly, but that's probably a stretch and not something you can easily test for or do anything about. Do you know how to check the codes?

Quarter Glass/Rear Speakers So I thought I'd check to see if the quarter glass had been out any point and see what lived under the rear plastics (as I had to run some cables to the boot anyway) so I removed the remaining interior trim panels over the rear quarters. I was glad I did, both seat belt top bolts were finger tight and the passenger side only in by around 2-3 turns ! The rear quarter glass looked factory, I checked the bead with my borescope just to see it had sealed all around the window and all looked good (no evidence of water inside/or outside the wing) so decided not to go any further. However whilst sniffing around in that corner I found bead of butyl around the plastic splash guard that stops water getting into the drivers sealt belt mechanisim had dried out and crumbled. I gave all of that a good clean up and replaced the butyl, as well as throwing in a spot of sound deadening for good measure. I found a couple of fairly new looking pioneer 17cm speakers in the cages (complete with cross threaded/miss matched screws, I love the 90s) which I figured I'd keep as they were only rear fill speakers anyway and they looked ok. Having got the stereo working (and noted how bad it sounded) I figured I'd take a look at the front speakers and see what horrors awaited. Thankfully the original speaker boxes were still there but unfortunately, so were the original speakers - looking a litte sorry for themselves ... Must be those new first generation bluetooth speakers TB Developments bracket (and port blocking piece of posh metal) ordered as well as some Focal 4" drivers. Hopefully that'll do the trick.

Windscreen So a kind gentleman came and removed/resealed my windscreen on Wednesday. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find folks who will do this with older cars. Like alarms, everyone wants the easy money (cough, Ghost, Pandora) so I phoned about 10 companies (with either no reply or they just wouldn't touch it) before I remembered one I used by proxy for my Subaru when it was in for paint. Anyway, the screen came out in around 60 seconds (from my previous expierence, this is usually not the case!), the chap reckoned it was likely fitted by a body shop or similar; evidenced by the inconsistent bead and the fact that multiple parts of the screen had little or not sealant touching them. The roof appears to have been painted (I assume after some bonnet/roof contact) and the screen was put in on top of this. The old screen came out with most of the paint inside of the frame attached to it so I don't rate the paint/primer they used in any case Anyway, post removal You can see the bit nearest the tweeter is looking a bit sad, like it's been the conduit for quite a bit of water over the years. Perfect placement of that hole so that it leaks water all over the junction boxes below and ECU ... And the screen itself, immediately after it was removed, if you zoom in a bit you can clearly see where the selant is missing ... Anyway, after a brief tidy up, some primer and a fat bead of sealant the original screen (and rescued outer trim, highly unusual!) the screen was back in. I then made a brew and sat pouring water all over the car with a hosepipe for about 30 minutes. Not a drop in the car ... hopefully it stays that way !

Cheers Scott ! Unfortunately the wiring diagram is missing now (way back when machine doesn't have it either sadly) when I take the bumper off I'll have a proper look ...

Hey Pete. Thanks for the kind words and the tips, when I bought the car the heater was perfect A/C was good, heat was strong so unless I've been incredibly unlucky I don't think it's that, you'll see the pics I'm about to post which strongly suggest it was the windscreen ... but nothing to say there isn't multiple leaks ! Re door seals, I did remove the passenger side seal and metal frame and seal behind the metal frame (as I have seen it before on Toyota's where water gets behind this bit and runs down the inside of the door and in. I also reseated the seal as bits of it looked like they were not in the metal frame. Water eh ?

Hey @Scooterfancy seeing you here I know we've spoken about all of the above and plenty more over the last few months but just to be clear to anyone who might be reading this - all of things discussed in this thread were known well before I bought the car - the whole buying experience from @Scooterwas supurb - refreshing to buy a car with my eyes open and honestly that was one of the very big plus points around buying this particular car. Appreciate the great condition its been kept in from a servicing/mechanical perspective, it ran faultlessly on my fairly lenthy journey back home ! As for making me poor - it certainly is doing that - Supra tax is strong currently but I'm doing my best to keep costs under control. Mainly by lying to myself/my wife about how much I've spent As for previous owners, I reached out to @SupraAyfwho sent me some great pics of the car early on and filled in some of the blank re it's history. It's a great community here and it's been really interesting to see what the cars been up to. Heres to hoping I can only improve on what's already been done. Or not. We shall see

It's nothing new to be fair, older cars suffer a little more in this regard(I believe) largely due to how long they've been around and simply because they were easier for people to dick about with

Wiring & Damp So my next job was to tackle the damp issue. Initially it appeared most of the damp was under the ECU but the carpet was dry (I found out the Supra's carpet is good at hiding damp, the plastic base the carpet is attached to does a good job of this) however the foam under this was sodden with water. On removal of the passenger seat I found that the rear passenger footwell was also swimming in water. But to get all of this out I really needed to finish the wiring tidy up I started when I began investigating the stereo issue. The car came with three oil temp/oil pressure/boost gauges which were of the older Blitz variety, These had been mounted in a modified Subaru (I think) triple gauge pod whcih was on the side of the dash. They all worked but they were past their best, they steamed up when the car was cold and were pretty hard to read and the mounting of the gauge pod wasn't really to my taste (it'd had been wood screwed into the side of the dash and rattled) I also wasn't a fan of the turbo timer, it was wired in such a way that the car could still be driven with the handbrake released and I didn't need it anyway so that was on its way. There was also a boost controller, which didn't control boost, but did have a helpful peak/warn boost feature. So that was on its way as well. I would ultimately replace these with three prosport gauges with peak/warn function for oil pressure/temp and boost readings. This is what I found under the dash And ... Much of this was twisted together and taped, some of which was fed by an unfused 60A supply direct from the battery. I have a real ick when it comes to bad wiring in cars so I set about disconnecting the battery and cut all of it out resoldering and fixing connectors as I went. I then made myself a junction box which would provide power to all of my accessories from this point forward, each circuit fused correctly... All of this took about 3 hours. And I hadn't even began to feed the new wiring/sensors for the new gauges yet

No Stereo Power So the first job I decided to tackle was the absence of power to the stereo, apparently the stereo hasn't worked for probably the best part of 10 years which, whilst I agree not entirely essential, I did quite fancy listening to the radio occasionaly but more importantly having some sort of hands free for my phone. I started removing dash panels to get a feel for the general state of the wiring. The car had aftermarket gauges, a boost controller and a turbo timer so there was a LOT of wiring under there, non of it particually neat and using the usual array of household choc block/lucas style crimps and of course twisted wires and tape. I didn't think this would bode well for the stereo. I was wrong. The stereo, bar a couple of wire taps (with obligitary live/chopped wires still present) was largely untouched. Checked the usual fuses but quickly found there was no power coming into the orange interior harness. Some further rather uncomfortable crawling around took me to the pasenger side junction box where I found my next problem -damp ! Having finally got hold of a JDM wiring diagram (with importantly, the correct wire colours) I found there was no power on the green connector located in that junction box. What I found was a bit of a shock, just that one pin had infact corroded and completely rusted out. Rather than try and patch this I set about finding the correct type pin so I could extend the damaged wire and re-crimp. This turned out to be more of a challenge than I expected ... The pin in question is part number 8100-0458 (T-083) (It's a Sumitomo Pin) I ended up ordering from auto-click.co.uk which fixed the issue. However I had a feeling the issue might have been caused, over time, by the damp in the car ...

Hi folks, Some of you may recognise the car in this thread as it's been owned by a few people within the forum (I won't post any names as I'll let them chime in as/if they wish) I suppose a litle background; I've always wanted a Supra but left it so long that I'd concluded it was either now or never - with prices on the rise I doubt I would have been able to convince myself to spend the money some are asking for these cars (In my mind they aren't exactly value for money right now, knowing what they went for only a few years ago !) I've not really purchased it as an investment (which I think in these times is rare) more as someone who's always wanted one and wanted to scratch the itch as it were. I was looking for a mechanically sound car that perhaps needed a bit of work or something I could put my own touch on. I've seen a lot of pigs with lipstick on looking at these, and other, classics so I guess what attracted me to this car is it was honestly advertised, warts and all, and it had a lot of history in terms of stuff on the forum and actual paperwork (again rare for fresh imports or flips) So I'll be largely fixing bits that are broke, upgrading bits I don't like and hopefully just enjoying driving it. Look wise I think I'd quite like it to sit in the OEM+ category so we shall see how financially ruinous that avenue turns out as and when. I'll post some of my more recent adventures when I get time Edit: Pictures below shortly after I got it home, unwashed and still full of stuff

So the one where water is pooling near the ECU looks like its coming from behind the rubber firewall insulation. From folks experience would this likely come from the heater matrix (I'd expect the leak to be on top of the insulation) ? Also, what else is behind there in terms of places where water could come in? I still think its the windscreen (I have someone coming to remove/refit next week) but just wondered what others have found ?

Also thinking windscreen has been out and perhaps not resealed, anyone else had this ?

Hi folks, So have removed prety much the entire interior for one reason or another (carpet/seats etc) as I had a damp issue amongst other things. I thought I'd sorted the leak but it appears to continue. My car is parked on a slope with the nose facing up and water pools (lots of it) in the passenger side rear seat well. This is an odd one as I can't see an obvious path that it has flowed it, appears to be wet just in this corner! I am guessing a side window was replaced at one point as I found a lot of safety glass behind the drivers seat in the passenger tub under the passenger seat. Wondering if it's the opposite window that got smashed and its leaking ? I appear to also have a smaller leak up fron by the ECU (two very small trains of a water) It's not the heater matrix, car hasn't been ran for weeks properly, rad is full. Are there any drains etc within the car (hard top) ? Any thoughts ? Already took off the passenger rubber a metal work, sealed behind that and put back together which seems to have helped a bit. All the rubbers actually look in really good condition. I will have at it with a hose pipe at some point and get to the bottom of whats going on but until then ... help

Guessing these will easily clear UK calipers ?

So in the cold light of day I've seen whats happened. The fuel cut defender was fed off I think ign wire for the ECU and the wire wasn't in great shape (wire taps) I've cut it and soldered it properly and it's all burst back in to life. I must have distrurbed it rooting around when I was fixing the stereo issue in the left hand foot well. Wire taps, lucas crimps and tape should be banned. Just for anyone who ever has the same issue, all of those lights should come on before the car starts, then go out. Half of them were missing when the ECU wasn't powering up. Should have all of the snow/trac/lights too. Not knowing the car all that well didn't help - but I know it a bit better now

Hi folks, Figured it wouldn't take long before I ended up posting in here. LIkely all my own fault ... So I've been working through a few things with my new purchase, namely the lack of stereo and removing tons of aftermarket gauges and the like. As such I've had all the dash panels out, passenger footwell plugs and a bunch of other stuff. Put it all back in and gone to start the car, I hear a whine from the front when I put it in accessory (assume this is the vents?) turn the key, starter fires but engine doesn't even attempt to start. I've noticed that on the left hand side of the dash (at the top) I get the following lights - Seatbelt Airbag Door open On the right side I get ABS (eventually) Engine oil temp (The yellow light) I don't get CEL Oil Pressure As such I've tried the diagnostics trick (paper clip in TE1 E1) and I don't see anything (I imagine this ie because I don't have a CEL) I've double checked all of the plugs I moved and I've put everything back as far as I can see. All my dash backlights etc work and all the buttons do to. I've also checked all the fuses, these seem ok too. Any thoughts ? I've not driven the car enough to know all of it's regular noises but I figured I should hear a fuel pump out back, I don't ? It's been sat a few weeks so sincerely hoping the ECU hasn't taken a dump Any help greatfuly recieved.

Hi folks, anyone got any experience with these ? Specifically threading the 3/4 16" adapter ? My existing plate threads beautifully but this one doesn't thread at all. Very, very, tight. Also oiled up the o-rings and the larger one now really doesn't want to stay in its hole. Not great. I ran a 3/4 16" bolt through the adapter it and it took a hell of a lot of torque to turn. I thought I was cross-threading it initially but the bolt's threads are undamaged. Looks like the bolt fetched off all of the gold coating on the bolt but is still really really tight. Cleaned it out with a wire brush which helped but amgGuessing that the tollerances this thing was made to didnt accomodate a coating. Doesn't feel a great quality part just wondering if I was unlucky or they are in fact as bad as all the other Chinese cheapo units on eBay ...

Cheers , I shall grab a cheap Yaris one and have a play

I think this is the route I'm going to go. I assume looking at the back of the airbag it's a single stage airbag which just needs the plug splicing in. The buttons can. Go as I doubt I'll find a clock spring which will work with the Supra and has that many wires ! How much would yours be sale for ? Might save me a job

Looked good @Benderam guessing no suitable airbag harness available ?

Hi folks, I think @Bender had fitted a MKIII steering wheel but from what I can tell the airbag was never connected and working ? Has anyone fitted the newer sort of steering wheel and got that up and running ? Thanks,

I do this too ... amazing how much the filter takes on its own. Cheers for all your responses

Always done it is a bit of an (likely unnecessary) precaution. Coming from a Subaru background they need no excuse to spin/pop something so just something I've always done !

Cheers AC93, not sure how relevant it is with these engines but I figure better be safe than sorry!

Hi folks, Curious but when you guys change your oil do you pull the fuel pump fuse and turn the key until the oil pressure light goes out to ensure you have oil pressure before running the engine? If I wanted to do that, is it enough to pull the 30AMP EFI fuse to achieve this or are there better options ? Thanks